1962 corvette

I have determined my OEM advance '236' is not functioning (leak?).

I want to keep the OEM part on the car - and, I have read on the Forum that there is a rebuilder service available.

Any information on a rebuild service contact is appreciated.

Thanks

Bill

tbarb

I know nothing about a rebuild service for a vacuum advance control.

Keep an eye for a nice working 236 plus if your car has it's stock L-79 camshaft you can get a vacuum control that's pulled full at 12" vacuum as it's better suited for your L-79 engine and stock camshaft.

Powershift

The guy you want is Don Baker. He has a shop in Chicago, Illinois. The last phone number I have is (815) 498-9522. He also rebuilds distributors......especially for the high $$$$ fuel cars.

I don't know if he rebuilds the vac cans, but he has exact reproductions that all the hi-performance and fuel guys use.

If this number is not current, just Google his name and location. It will provide additional info.

Larry

mattnSD

I second that. Don did a real nice job restoring my original L79 dizzy. He has perfect 236's. The car runs like a clock. I also hear really good things about this Lars fellow.

Nowhere Man

LIC sells the correct one

Powershift

Tell me this again after you calibrate it.

Larry

lars

Running a completely original and factory stock advance curve (and vacuum advance) on modern pump gas is not a good idea... Check the articles written and published by me, Henry Olson (aka, "Ole's Carbs"), and Duke Williams for info. Put the stock OEM parts in a drawer, and set up your curve so you can enjoy the car and have some fun with it.

Lars

Nowhere Man

So your telling me there is two manufactures of the correct appearing cans?


I used the standard brand ones with no problems

Powershift

Yes.................Don has his own source and his cans are as factory.

the current B28 Echlin/SMP/Delco/BW one is fine as a replacement to the #236.....except it has no logos and part numbers. All these above B28 cans are made by the same company at this time, and are getting hard to find.

Not certain who LICS uses as a source.

Agree with Lars that there are probably better vac cans for the L79 engine than the factory #236 one or even the SMP B28 can. That is the OP's choice to make. Lars has written tech papers on how to select the best and correct one. They are available from archives or Lar's if asked.

I just tried to answer the OP original question and give him a source for the part he asked for.

Larry

Nowhere Man

Larry good to know. I never used one of the ones sold by LIC or the ones sold by Don. I never would have thought on a small market that there was two sources for the same part. I won't get into white one to use thought.

Powershift

If I remember correctly LICS sells about 5 reproduction vac cans for the various C2 cars. There have been reports of some of these cans not meeting original specs.............especially the #236 one.

The #236 Don has was made especially for the SHP solid lifter and fuel cars.........he sells to the fuel injection rebuilding guys, etc. They claim his vac cans are "dead on"

I believe there is a significant $$$$$ difference as well between the two products.

If I had a judged car and wanted the best, I would call Don. For a non-judged car, I would install a generic B28 can or something similar (like Lar's recommended can)

Larry

Nowhere Man

Dollar for points dad only lost one point for the standard one.

65 vette dude

If you have an L79, you probably are pulling about 15" of vacuum at idle. The correct can for the L79 is a B26, which is available from NAPA. The 236, and B28 can is correct for the L76, which only has about 9 or 10" of vacuum at idle. By the way, I have a L79, and I run the B28 can, and I have it set up so the can only pulls in 10" of vacuum at idle, instead of 16". I get a much better idle, and throttle response at that setting.

kingwoodvette

Did you mean 10* of timing instead of vacuum?

1962 corvette

For all who participated in this thread - Thanks, I learned some details and now have discussed my situation with Don Baker, and like his product for my application - case resolved!

Bill

SWCDuke

Even if you're doing Flight Judging it's doesn't make much sense to spend big bucks for a custom 236 16 rather than a generic ten buck B-number. The VAC is worth only 3 points - two for originality and one for condition. If I see a B-number I deduct one for originality and since they are usually fairly new, they get the condition point. Often the number isn't even visible - covered by the cap - so I give the entrant the benefit of the doubt and no deduction unless there is some other obvious issue.

The L-79, all years, has a rather odd spark advance map. It combines the lazy 300 HP centrifugal curve (30 @ 5100) with the very aggressive 8" VAC. Since typical idle behavior is 14-15" @ 750 it only needs a 12" VAC to pass the Two-Inch Rule, thus the B26. A too aggressive VAC can cause part throttle acceleration transient or even sustained detonation.

Then put some light springs in the centrifugal to get is all in by 2500-3500, as low in that range as possible without detonation. The improvement in performance below 3500-4000 where you spend 99+ percent of your driving time is quite noticeable, and if you keep careful fuel consumption records, you might see a reduction.

Duke

65 vette dude

Yes I did........thanks for the help.