64, 327/365hp cuts out at 4000 rpm - any clues?
#1
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64, 327/365hp cuts out at 4000 rpm - any clues?
Hi.. I have a 1964 327/365hp convertible. One issue I have is the engine cuts out at 4000 rpm. I replaced the fuel filter, but it wasn't a fix. The previous owner said he had it happen to him once, and it was a fuel line issue due to the crappy gas these days.
Anyone have any clues or suggestions on what they would try next? What I'm looking for is what's the most likely culprit or are there easy things I can try first before going nutty?
Thanks!
Anyone have any clues or suggestions on what they would try next? What I'm looking for is what's the most likely culprit or are there easy things I can try first before going nutty?
Thanks!
#4
Melting Slicks
By "cuts out" do you mean that the motor is "cutting out" (sporadically) or, it dies. Could be anything from electrical to valves.
More info would be needed to help diagnose your issue IMO.
Gary
More info would be needed to help diagnose your issue IMO.
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; 05-14-2017 at 02:31 PM.
#5
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Does it misfire or simply fall flat, like no fuel? If it is falling flat and sagging, I'd check the fuel pump volume and delivery next. Could also be a low float level in the carb. Unlikely an ignition problem unless it is misfiring and breaking up at high speed.
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Melting Slicks
Gary
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Gary's '66 (05-14-2017)
#8
Race Director
If you have an original points ignition system I would check the condition of the points and the point dwell. If the points are not the D112P or equivalent high tension set, I would replace them with this style of points. NAPA still sells an equivalent at a reasonable price. Part #CS89 or perhaps #CS7860.
Spark plugs with high RPM misfiring/fouling is another possibility. Install a new set with the correct gap and heat range. AC 45 or AC R45 or equivalent.
Both suggestions are easy to do and to verify results.
Larry
Spark plugs with high RPM misfiring/fouling is another possibility. Install a new set with the correct gap and heat range. AC 45 or AC R45 or equivalent.
Both suggestions are easy to do and to verify results.
Larry
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I second this because I've experienced point bounce and loss of power due to (unknowingly) having the low spring tension points in my racing engine. At 5000 RPM the engine would just lay down. It would NOT rev any higher. Sounded like I was bumping up against a rev limiter.
#10
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Many of you asked what it sounds like... the cut out is as if I've hit a limiter... the engine just won't go over 4000... it cuts out in a sputtering manner. I assume gas starvation, but it could be ignition related?
My other uneducated guess is maybe the 4 barrel is not getting gas and its only running on 1/2 a carb? I don't know enough about these carbs to really know how to check to make sure it's doing what it's supposed to do. :-) I'm use to an automatic and you knew when the secondaries opened up.
I hope this helps for those trying to help me... I'm going to go read more responses and see if anything rings a bell.
My other uneducated guess is maybe the 4 barrel is not getting gas and its only running on 1/2 a carb? I don't know enough about these carbs to really know how to check to make sure it's doing what it's supposed to do. :-) I'm use to an automatic and you knew when the secondaries opened up.
I hope this helps for those trying to help me... I'm going to go read more responses and see if anything rings a bell.
#11
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I would look at fuel supply. If the car is getting gas, the secondaries are getting gas. You probably have a fuel pump issue, a sock in the tank issue, or a float level issue. Could be points, yes, but points float at only 4000 rpm is pretty rare. "Running on half a carb", you'd still be able to reach redline, if all else was ok.
#13
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when was the last tune up?
#14
Melting Slicks
Many of you asked what it sounds like... the cut out is as if I've hit a limiter... the engine just won't go over 4000... it cuts out in a sputtering manner. I assume gas starvation, but it could be ignition related?
My other uneducated guess is maybe the 4 barrel is not getting gas and its only running on 1/2 a carb? I don't know enough about these carbs to really know how to check to make sure it's doing what it's supposed to do. :-) I'm use to an automatic and you knew when the secondaries opened up.
I hope this helps for those trying to help me... I'm going to go read more responses and see if anything rings a bell.
My other uneducated guess is maybe the 4 barrel is not getting gas and its only running on 1/2 a carb? I don't know enough about these carbs to really know how to check to make sure it's doing what it's supposed to do. :-) I'm use to an automatic and you knew when the secondaries opened up.
I hope this helps for those trying to help me... I'm going to go read more responses and see if anything rings a bell.
First and foremost, start with the motor cold, remove the coil wire (so it can't start) and, just as an extra precaution, have a fire extinguisher handy.
Next, remove the line from the carb bowl. Slip a piece of hose and clamp over the line and tighten, then put the end of the line into a receptacle (coffee can, etc.). Next, have someone turn over the motor while you watch to see how much fuel pumps out of the line.
It should be a substantial amount as, your pump SHOULD be putting out around 6 psi! Then, report back. Good luck
Gary
#15
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As always...And just in the process of elimination....Check the main electrical connection block at the firewall...Unplug it...Spray electrical contact cleaner on both sides and plug it back together...
#16
Race Director
Based on his post #10 he might be better served to have someone who has better knowledge take a look at it. I've seen well meaning people create more problems for someone than actually solve the original problem for them.
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#17
Melting Slicks
My .02
Gary
#18
Race Director
I can agree with that statement Randy but, if the OP intends to keep his car I don't see where doing a few basic tests thus, getting to learn more about his car, will hurt. After all, as we both know, there's surely to be more issues ahead and he's not going to learn much by bringing his car to someone every time he has a problem. Not to mention the cost AND, finding a shop near by that knows much more than he does.
My .02
Gary
My .02
Gary
He could learn more by being involved in the trouble shooting process with an experienced helper in the room. But to suggest to him to disconnect electrical connectors and/or remove fuel lines and start cranking the engine over with gas squirting is a little scary when considering the depth of knowledge he appears to have or lack based on the wording of his questions. No disrespect to the OP, but you and I may have no problem doing those things, but I can think of a few of my car guy friends that I would absolutely leave the building if they started doing stuff like that.
All the advice is good. It just needs the appropriate warning label. YMMV.
In his next post he might be asking recommendations for burnt wiring and torched fiberglass repair or a recommendation for good contractor to rebuild his burnt down garage.
.
Last edited by Randy G.; 05-14-2017 at 11:36 PM.
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jerry gollnick (05-16-2017)
#19
Melting Slicks
[QUOTE=Randy G.;1594739561]I'll half agree.
He could learn more by being involved in the trouble shooting process with an experienced helper in the room. But to suggest to him to disconnect electrical connectors and/or remove fuel lines and start cranking the engine over with gas squirting is a little scary when considering the depth of knowledge he appears to have or lack based on the wording of his questions. No disrespect to the OP, but you and I may have no problem doing those things, but I can think of a few of my car guy friends that I would absolutely leave the building if they started doing stuff like that.
All the advice is good. It just needs the appropriate warning label. YMMV.
In his next post he might be asking recommendations for burnt wiring and torched fiberglass repair or a recommendation for good contractor to rebuild his burnt down garage.
You may have a point there.
Gary
He could learn more by being involved in the trouble shooting process with an experienced helper in the room. But to suggest to him to disconnect electrical connectors and/or remove fuel lines and start cranking the engine over with gas squirting is a little scary when considering the depth of knowledge he appears to have or lack based on the wording of his questions. No disrespect to the OP, but you and I may have no problem doing those things, but I can think of a few of my car guy friends that I would absolutely leave the building if they started doing stuff like that.
All the advice is good. It just needs the appropriate warning label. YMMV.
In his next post he might be asking recommendations for burnt wiring and torched fiberglass repair or a recommendation for good contractor to rebuild his burnt down garage.
You may have a point there.
Gary
#20
Burning Brakes
People! Always look at the plugs first. They tell all. Best possible would be to drive it into "the condition", do a clean cut (push in the clutch, switch off the ignition, coast to a stop) take out a plug or two and have a look. Sooty or wet=bad ignition, dry and or white = inadequate fuel.
OR next best, just take 'em all out and look. Post a picture. A lot of us can tell you a lot by looking at them. If some look just right and some not, look into the wires, condenser, points lead, evidence of arcing in the cap.
OR next best, just take 'em all out and look. Post a picture. A lot of us can tell you a lot by looking at them. If some look just right and some not, look into the wires, condenser, points lead, evidence of arcing in the cap.