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Does anyone have a CLEAR picture of one of these they can post? I have a bad eye and can't read the marking to read which fuses are for what. My dash lights are out and I would like to check the fuse.
Does anyone have a CLEAR picture of one of these they can post? I have a bad eye and can't read the marking to read which fuses are for what. My dash lights are out and I would like to check the fuse.
I'm not aware of any fuse in the light switch. There is a circuit breaker in the light switch that opens and then resets when the headlight circuit draws to much current, but that doesn't affect the instrument lights. The most likely problem with the inst panel lamps is the rheostat in the switch that varies the inst lamps brightness when you rotate the headlight ****. That rheostat gets corroded or loose or dirty and no longer picks the voltage off the windings to feed the lamps. Wnen you rotate the headlight **** left and right do you get ANY flicker of dash lights at any part of the rotation?
There's a good chance that the fuse for the instr lamps is also the fuse for the tail lamps, marked "back Lps" on the fuse panel, right beside the brake fuse. There aren't that many fuses there, if you think you have a bad fuse, pop them out and measure with a meter one at a time. If you have a volt meter, you can also pull on the park lights and measure for 12v on BOTH sides of that fuse, if it's only on one end, it's blown and you won't have dash lights OR tail lights.
I would check the small fuse on the rear of the headlight switch.See photo
Sorry, I have never seen a switch like the one pictured. I deleted my earlier post to avoid confusing anyone else who might come upon this thread. As far as your instrument lights, the voltage comes off that gray wire on the switch. You'll need to do some measuring to find where it's missing. Your options appear to be bad switch or rheostat since the voltage is going to the switch for tail lights. Your switch is different from mine and I can't track it down from the 57 diagram. I assume your lights worked and then stopped? Be sure to post back the fix in case it comes up later for someone else.
Here's a link to a 57 diagram, but I can't really follow where the rheostat input voltage comes in. It's out on the gray, but ????
OK, my mistake, it DOES have a fuse in the switch I just could not see it until I took the switch out. Fuse looked good, replaced it anyway, still no dash lights.
Here is a picture of the switch.
When I pulled it out the wire with the capacitor attached to the switch was not attached to anything. I assume it goes to ground and was attached up behind the nut that holds the switch to the dash???
Also you can see another wire in the picture that came down from under the dash when the switch came down. I don't know where it is supposed to be attached???
OK, my mistake, it DOES have a fuse in the switch I just could not see it until I took the switch out. Fuse looked good, replaced it anyway, still no dash lights.
Here is a picture of the switch.
When I pulled it out the wire with the capacitor attached to the switch was not attached to anything. I assume it goes to ground and was attached up behind the nut that holds the switch to the dash???
Also you can see another wire in the picture that came down from under the dash when the switch came down. I don't know where it is supposed to be attached???
Wire you see black with white tracer looks like the ground wire that attaches to the bottom of the head light switch providing a ground.
Looking up at the installed switch on the rear bottom is a screw that this attaches to. Do you have a meter to use to see if you have power to the fuse and to the rheostat for the dash lts. This switch could be bad or in need of a good cleaning.
Wire you see black with white tracer looks like the ground wire that attaches to the bottom of the head light switch providing a ground.
Looking up at the installed switch on the rear bottom is a screw that this attaches to. Do you have a meter to use to see if you have power to the fuse and to the rheostat for the dash lts. This switch could be bad or in need of a good cleaning.
The gray wires you see on your switch one goes to your dash lts and the other to your radio lt. You must have power to these wires for lts in your dash
The gray wires you see on your switch one goes to your dash lts and the other to your radio lt. You must have power to these wires for lts in your dash
I suspect you have no power or your switch is bad or corroded and needing a good cleaning.
Wire you see black with white tracer looks like the ground wire that attaches to the bottom of the head light switch providing a ground.
Looking up at the installed switch on the rear bottom is a screw that this attaches to. Do you have a meter to use to see if you have power to the fuse and to the rheostat for the dash lts. This switch could be bad or in need of a good cleaning.
02-18-2017, 05:52 PM
Picture of a 1957 fuse block
