Jimbo64

Is there an easy way to change the bad bulbs in the dash of a 64' without dismantleing the whole thing. Looking up
under there, unless you have some mighty small hands, it looks like a touch and feel thing. Must be an easier way then
taking everything apart to change a bulb or two.
:cheers: :smash:

Milehigh66

I havn't found an easier way yet, but I have become real good at taking my dash out. :) you may be able to get to the lower ones under the dash but the upper ones would require the hands of a five year old to reach up there. :yesnod: The bright side of things is with practice you can have your dash out in under twenty minutes, trust me I know. Just line up everything that you ever wanted to do to the dash and do it all at once so you don't get as good as I have become at taking it apart.

Just my experience.
Kurt :cheers:

6T5RUSH

Jimbo64,

No short cut on this one. This will be my winter project. Put a new dash harness in 5 years ago. At that time replaced all the bulbs. Only trouble was I didn't insert them snug enough and 3-4 of them are out of their sockets + my left turn signal bulb is in my gas guage...so, my gas guage light goes on and off when my lights are on :reddevil Needless to say I'm a little teed at my self for not doing this right the first time.

A tip mentioned by someone on this forum in an earlier thread: Buy a lenght of threaded rod (the same size thread as the 5 or 6 screws holding the instrument cluster). Any hardware store sells this. Remove the screws substituing the threaded rod (you'll have to cut the rod into 2-3" lenghts. Loosen the clamp under the dash holding the steering column, lower it out of the way. This will allow you to "hang" the instrument cluster far enough away for you to reach in and do your bulb replacements. This is my attack plan. Be sure to cover your steering collumn so as not to scratch it.

While I'm on this subject has anyone found an improved bulb (read this brighter and cooler) that will work well in the dash, sort of like the led taillight bulbs BlueStrip67 mentioned in an earlier thread?

Hey Jimbo64, good luck and give us feedback on this project (I know, you're just changing some bulbs....yeh, it's a project!).

Jim

Jimbo64

Guys, Thanks for the advice and inputs. Maybe I'll make it a winter project also and replace the wiring harness since I see some
cracked insulation on some of the wires. General outdid himself on this one. Have to dismantle a dash to change a light bulb, come
on now. Great engineering or originally drumming up work for our friendly mister "good wrench". Again thanks for the inputs. Thought
maybe, just maybe I had missed something which was an easy solution to a simple problem. :cheers: :chevy

kellsdad

Jimbo64-
When I restored my 63 coupe, the job I hated most was reassembling the instrument panel. Keeping track of where each bulb goes, reconnecting the speedo and tach cables, and doing most of it by feel in a very tight space was a real pain in the behind. I suggest that if you have to take the instrument panel out to reach one light, go ahead and replace them all so you don't have to do this job again in a few months. Good luck.

66427-450

I agreee with MileHigh66 -

make a list of ALL the dash work you'd like to do, get all the parts and materials you'll need, and do it all at once this winter (gauge work, repainting of the front of the cluster, clean/replace any lens, repaint the stering column, etc.). I'd replace ALL the bulbs with QUALITY replacements since you have it apart. It really isn't that difficult a job.

Daffy2

Whenever I have to do serious work under the dash, I pull one or both seats. This is a real easy 10 minute job and for me it really saves my back. Also give you a chance to check the pivot bolts on the seat backs, mine sure like to work loose. With luck, you'll find enough change for a beer or two.....

GL

Daffy2

achapman

Remove one of the screws that holds the dash in, take it to the hardware store and match it up with a 4" long bolt. I think its a 1/4 x 20 by 4". Take out all the screws holding the dash and replace one on each side with the 4" long ones. Now the dash can slide out and you can get your hands behind the dash to replace the lights. Quick and easy... :smash:

Jimbo64

Andy, If you've tried that and it works then you could be the hero of the forum or at least the light bulb repair club. Do you have to drop
the steering or do you have enough clearance to work with. Sounds to easy compared with the mess I thought I might be getting into.
Thanks again for all of your help Jimbo64 :cheers: :seeya

propwash

Andy is right
go to Ace ( hardware Store) and buy some 1/4 x 20 stock it comes in 3ft lengths and use your dremmel tool to cut 7 inch pieces to really get at the back of the dash you have to drop the steering colum which is no big deal ( it just sounds tough)
A biggie is to have masking tape and pen . Write down what each wire does and tape the wire as you pull it lose. While you got the dash that far out why not take it apart and repaint it along with the steering colum, you will be amazed at the beauty you create,, and the Corvette shops charge big bucks for what you can do for $5.00 worth of Krylon semi flat black.
the first time it's scarry but I now consider all this stuff I do to the car as 50 % of the fun
:crazy: :crazy:
I did this about 2 years ago and now I am back there again because I spotted 2 burnt wires behind the fuse box and I consider myself warned :eek: I just got the new wire harnesses ( Dash and Tail lights) while I am at it why not a new carpet set and ofcourse I want the wiper motor and pump to work so rebuilt it :rolleyes: I am having just too much fun for any one person. :cry :cry My wife has begun to check the grocery bags I bring into the house :smash: :smash: Take your time the end result is worth it.
Steve :seeya
Ask questions , I am happy to share everything I have learned , most of which came from here at the forum.

achapman

jimbo64,

Don't think I am a hero, it works and saves a lot of skinned knuckles. Propwash added some good input on the steering column and definately follow his lead on labeling each wire, saves a lot of grief guessing where everything goes. I disconnected the steering column under the dash and it dropped down enough to slide the dash out and get in behind with no problems. Good luck... :smash: :cheers:


[Modified by achapman, 11:54 AM 9/4/2002]

Jimbo64

Man, with you guys inputs, life is getting better. Will the 7" pieces of 1/4 by 20 drill rod give you enough clearance to
replace the wiring harness or do you have to take the dash all the way out. Any electrical store will have cards with numbers on
to put on wires for references. [ cheap, peel off and easy to work with]. If enough clearance couldn't you just pull one old
bulb or wire and replace with the new proper one off the harness as you go along and thus avoid a screwup. Back in my
Navy electronic days thats the way we did it while working on the maze of wires on big radar installations. Again, thanks
for the inputs. Had that 64' out this pm exercising those ponies under the hood. Beautiful day all around. Jimbo 64 :cheers: :seeya

propwash

yup
you can do it just like you said, pull it all the way out if your going to paint it and maybe clean it up on the inside.
GL and holler if you get stumped
As far as changing the Harness I am finding that the more stuff you get out of the way the better, anyway's you already have the wires marked so it's just plug'nplay from there.
S


[Modified by propwash, 4:37 PM 9/4/2002]

achapman

In a word "yes", but its a qualified yes. The dash will slide out to a degree, remember the oil line, tach and speedo cables will only go so far, so they may have to be disconnected. If you are putting in a dash harness then you will have to take the radio side panels off, and I found it easier to remove the glove box, as there is a lot of wiring under there as well. Some people like to take the seats out, and get comfy but I didn't.

The best thing to remember about doing a dash harness is to take your time.... I budgeted a weekend and started on Saturday morning and finished up around noon the next day. The nice thing about this is that I had a short in my interior lights, once the new harness was in everything worked!!!!! :D Went with Lectric Limited for the harness which came with a new fuse block.

Important... make sure you check the status of the engine side connector that goes into the fuse block for rust, bent pins, etc.... get some electrical cleaner and don't be afraid to use it. Good luck.... :smash:

PS - Almost forgot, don't forget to DISCONNECT the battery.... sounds simple but sometimes simple things are overlooked..... :hat


[Modified by achapman, 5:47 PM 9/4/2002]

Colevette

"How do you get "Brighter Dash Lights" :confused:

Jimbo64

First try to understand why they are dim. Three things: 1] you have some burnt out bulbs-usually the cause. 2] the
rheostat [switch you turn to make them brighter and dimmer ] is faulty-not real often, Harness wires not all in proper
places or bad-----unlikely. If it was a fuse problem they would either work correctly or not at all. Good luck. :cheers:

macnav

I don't know the bulb numbers, but I've seen previous threads here and on the NCRS Tech Forum referring to possible replacement bulbs with higher wattage (marginally higher wattage). I think two other things should be checked as a cause for 'dim' dash lights: make sure that your headlight switch 'dimmer' rheostat is functioning properly (at full brightness there should be no voltage reduction) and ensure that your gauge face numbers are as clean as possible and that the light blue paint lining the inside of the cluster (which I surmise was applied to enhance the colour of reflection of the dash cluster lamps on the instrument face numbers) is clean and/or renewed. It's worth noting that there are two levels of cluster (gauge face) restoration offered by at least one of the suppliers (Corvette Specialities of Maryland): one level simply cleans up the faces and re-paints the needles and tach red/yellow lines. The other level is to either replace or re-face (silk-screen, usually) the gauges, which seems to result in more vivid 'bluish-green' hues to the instrument numbers etc. From an originality syandpoint, I suppose the former method is best; however, having seen the two results side-by-side, the latter is more attractive and likely results in apparently 'brighter' dash lights.