Resin question
11-03-2015, 01:37 PM
#21
Race Director
As far as I know the method of constructing body panels didn't change except in minor detail, from 54 or 55 until what looks to be about 72 from the posts above (I thought it was a little later).
I think for clarity what we need is for JohnZ or someone to post that GM assembly plant photo showing the worker blowing chopped fiberglass stands into the screen mold for a C2 roof panel prior to it being placed in the press molds with resin for molding and curing. I think it's in my Noland Adams book but I don't have a copy I can paste in here.
I think for clarity what we need is for JohnZ or someone to post that GM assembly plant photo showing the worker blowing chopped fiberglass stands into the screen mold for a C2 roof panel prior to it being placed in the press molds with resin for molding and curing. I think it's in my Noland Adams book but I don't have a copy I can paste in here.
11-03-2015, 01:41 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Plano IL
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C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
As far as I know the method of constructing body panels didn't change except in minor detail, from 54 or 55 until what looks to be about 72 from the posts above (I thought it was a little later).
I think for clarity what we need is for JohnZ or someone to post that GM assembly plant photo showing the worker blowing chopped fiberglass stands into the screen mold for a C2 roof panel prior to it being placed in the press molds with resin for molding and curing. I think it's in my Noland Adams book but I don't have a copy I can paste in here.
I think for clarity what we need is for JohnZ or someone to post that GM assembly plant photo showing the worker blowing chopped fiberglass stands into the screen mold for a C2 roof panel prior to it being placed in the press molds with resin for molding and curing. I think it's in my Noland Adams book but I don't have a copy I can paste in here.
11-03-2015, 01:45 PM
#23
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Plano IL
Posts: 5,102
Received 1,460 Likes
on
742 Posts
C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...961/61sae.html - C1 fiberglass process
Last edited by csherman; 11-03-2015 at 01:51 PM.
11-03-2015, 09:02 PM
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
My shop temperature is between 60 and 65. I keep it a little cool so I can wear somethin to keep the glass off my skin!
My roller is exactly like that.
I once measured exactly how much hardener to add for one inch of 3m resin in the cups I use. I've been doing that amount ever since. Perhaps I need to recheck it. I was told a laminating resin would cure with a tacky surface and just assumed this was correct. Can anyone verify that the 3m is a laminating resin?
11-03-2015, 09:07 PM
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
11-03-2015, 09:10 PM
#26
Pro
Thread Starter
The only thing I can add is that you might experiment with trying to increase or decrease the resin applied to the mat. Bubbles sounds like the matrix may be ending up a bit too resin rich and bubbles are forming in the excess on top. If a solid layer of resin is forming over the surface after rolling it out and you are seeing the bubbles in that - that would sound to me like too much resin is being used. But, could be that it's actually resin lean if the bubbles could be areas that didn't bind together when rolled out. If you could take a picture of the bubbles that might help someone figure it out.
Thanks,
11-03-2015, 09:23 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
I don't have the part number handy. The car isn't at home. But I will check.
My shop temperature is between 60 and 65. I keep it a little cool so I can wear somethin to keep the glass off my skin!
My roller is exactly like that.
I once measured exactly how much hardener to add for one inch of 3m resin in the cups I use. I've been doing that amount ever since. Perhaps I need to recheck it. I was told a laminating resin would cure with a tacky surface and just assumed this was correct. Can anyone verify that the 3m is a laminating resin?
My shop temperature is between 60 and 65. I keep it a little cool so I can wear somethin to keep the glass off my skin!
My roller is exactly like that.
I once measured exactly how much hardener to add for one inch of 3m resin in the cups I use. I've been doing that amount ever since. Perhaps I need to recheck it. I was told a laminating resin would cure with a tacky surface and just assumed this was correct. Can anyone verify that the 3m is a laminating resin?
I've had the 3M stay tacky when I didn't use enough hardener but only a couple times.
What I do a lot is heat up the surrounding glass with a heat gun, fairly warm to the touch, gun on low, 6 in. away and not directly on the wet glass.