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Well, it happened. My 62 fuel filter bowl leaked and whoosh, up in flames.
I was quick to pull over and very quick with the extinguisher (probably had it out within 60 seconds.
Now to proceed with assessing damage and deciding how to deal with Hagerty. Hood paint, manifolds and engine compartment paint damage, and some wiring.
Can certainly repair it myself but wondering what others have learned about the best route to take ie. put in a claim and have it done professionally, or do it myself?
Anyone with insurance experience care to give some advice?
I've been with Hagerty probably 15 years now. I had a near fire (electrical) that fried the engine harness, dash harness, burned all the instrument bulbs, blew the radio...all traced to a short in the amp guage. Hagerty was quick to send an independent adjuster out to my house to assess the damage and trace the source of the problem. I had all the work done by Masterworks in Madison Heights, MI. Hagerty stood behind the whole material and labor cost.
I would do nothing on my own. My advice to you is call Hagerty and state what happened and the end result. If they are consistent in responding, they will send an independent adjuster to your house to make an assessment.
Definitely do not repair it your self!
Have a competent shop do all the repairs.
Insurance rules mandate that a person can not make money on a claim.
If you do it yourself, they only have to pay you the wages of a mechanic and parts at cost.
If they do set a price on the repairs and pay you the money, if you find any additional damage it will be very difficult to get a supplemental check, especially when they find out you did the repairs.
Since you had insurance use it. I had a small fire in my C5 when I blew the engine on the track. Still have issues, mainly because I thought it was not to hard to fix. However, with a C5 they might have totaled if it happened on the street. Those bills can rack up fast.
On 62 340 HP cars it is sort of common for the short copper (or brass) pipe between the glass filter bowl and the carb to crack and lots of gas comes out.
I noticed it on my 62 while the car was parked.
I replaced the pipe with a steel nipple, o problems now.
Originally Posted by Grebs
Well, it happened. My 62 fuel filter bowl leaked and whoosh, up in flames.
I was quick to pull over and very quick with the extinguisher (probably had it out within 60 seconds.
Now to proceed with assessing damage and deciding how to deal with Hagerty. Hood paint, manifolds and engine compartment paint damage, and some wiring.
Can certainly repair it myself but wondering what others have learned about the best route to take ie. put in a claim and have it done professionally, or do it myself?
Anyone with insurance experience care to give some advice?
Guys, you're all great for helping out. I'll definitely contact Hagerty and let them handle it. Nowhere Man, it's a stock steel line. I feel so lucky that I had a good fire extinguisher with quick access. I could be looking at a pile of melted fiberglass right now.
Guys, you're all great for helping out. I'll definitely contact Hagerty and let them handle it. Nowhere Man, it's a stock steel line. I feel so lucky that I had a good fire extinguisher with quick access. I could be looking at a pile of melted fiberglass right now.
Thanks again to all of you.
Joe
"and let them handle it."... WRONG.
Send it to a repair shop of your choice and let them handle it to your satisfaction!!!
The insurance company will be a lot happier working with your shop, knowing that it will be fixed properly according to the work order.
They don't like to work with an owner as, with due respect to you, you really don't know what you are doing.
Last edited by Roger Walling; 02-09-2015 at 07:49 PM.
On 62 340 HP cars it is sort of common for the short copper (or brass) pipe between the glass filter bowl and the carb to crack and lots of gas comes out.
I noticed it on my 62 while the car was parked.
I replaced the pipe with a steel nipple, o problems now.
That short section of fuel line between the filter and the carb should be black iron, and not brass. Everybody uses brass. But Chevy did not. The pipe is black, and sometimes a little rust can be seen. I found the correct pipe at my local Ace Hardware. BTW, it's an NCRS judged part.
Send it to a repair shop of your choice and let them handle it to your satisfaction!!!
The insurance company will be a lot happier working with your shop, knowing that it will be fixed properly according to the work order.
They don't like to work with an owner as, with due respect to you, you really don't know what you are doing.
I must apologize for being so blunt with my above statement,
"you really don't know what you are doing"
I should have added,
you really don't know what you are doing when you attempt to handle a claim by yourself.
Roger
Chris,
I agree with you and installed a iron piece many years ago after my brass one cracked and leaked.
But, Corvette Central still sells the brass part.
Buyer beware it can create a dangerous situation.
Bruce B
Originally Posted by chris ritchie
That short section of fuel line between the filter and the carb should be black iron, and not brass. Everybody uses brass. But Chevy did not. The pipe is black, and sometimes a little rust can be seen. I found the correct pipe at my local Ace Hardware. BTW, it's an NCRS judged part.
[QUOTE=Grebs;1588922222]Well, it happened. My 62 fuel filter bowl leaked and whoosh, up in flames.
I was quick to pull over and very quick with the extinguisher (probably had it out within 60 seconds.
Sorry to see that this happened, but glad no one was injured, and that the damage was not worse.
I used a small Fire Extinguisher, Dry Chem, BC, 10B:C
by KIDDE
Technical Specifications
Zoro #: G4152005 | Mfr #: 46614120N
Handle Material: Plastic Diameter: 3-1/4"
Valve Material: Plastic Operating Pressure: 100 psi
Extinguisher Type: Dry Chemical Cylinder Material: Aluminum
Rechargeable: No Disposable: Yes
Item: Fire Extinguisher Extinguish Agent Type: Sodium Bicarbonate
Standards: UL Listed Class: BC
Bracket Included: USCG Range Max.: 14 ft.
Discharge Time: 8 to 10 sec. UL Rating: 10B:C
Height: 13-3/4" Capacity: 2.5 lb.
Zoro Number: G4152005 Mfr Number: 46614120N
It was barely large enough to douse the flames. This model fits in the center compartment between the seats and was quickly accessible. A larger model would be better as this was not a large fire and I was lucky to have enough chemicals.
So Far Haggerty has been great. The adjuster was quick and seems to agree on the need for an engine bay make-over and painting the entire front end. They' say they'll pay me direct and I can arrange to use whomever I choose. I'm thinking of having Jeff Reade, in Culver City do it, unless someone knows a top notch guy in the north Los Angeles area (SFV, Glendale, Burbank, etc). I'd love to have a few guys to choose from.
I used a small Fire Extinguisher, Dry Chem, BC, 10B:C
by KIDDE
Technical Specifications
Zoro #: G4152005 | Mfr #: 46614120N
Handle Material: Plastic Diameter: 3-1/4"
Valve Material: Plastic Operating Pressure: 100 psi
Extinguisher Type: Dry Chemical Cylinder Material: Aluminum
Rechargeable: No Disposable: Yes
Item: Fire Extinguisher Extinguish Agent Type: Sodium Bicarbonate
Standards: UL Listed Class: BC
Bracket Included: USCG Range Max.: 14 ft.
Discharge Time: 8 to 10 sec. UL Rating: 10B:C
Height: 13-3/4" Capacity: 2.5 lb.
Zoro Number: G4152005 Mfr Number: 46614120N
It was barely large enough to douse the flames. This model fits in the center compartment between the seats and was quickly accessible. A larger model would be better as this was not a large fire and I was lucky to have enough chemicals.
So Far Haggerty has been great. The adjuster was quick and seems to agree on the need for an engine bay make-over and painting the entire front end. They' say they'll pay me direct and I can arrange to use whomever I choose. I'm thinking of having Jeff Reade, in Culver City do it, unless someone knows a top notch guy in the north Los Angeles area (SFV, Glendale, Burbank, etc). I'd love to have a few guys to choose from.
Quote "They' say they'll pay me direct and I can arrange to use whomever I choose."
This is the way that I would prefer but the reason that the insurance companies do this is so that the customer has the money in his hands and then tries to make a deal with the shop.
This often leads to the shop not bothering to mention other damage that he finds that other wise would be repaired if the shop handled all the paper work. (Often with the money in hand, the customer spends it on something else and never completely repairs the damage that would otherwise lead to finding hidden damage that happened in the accident.)
This is not to say that the owner should not bother knowing the details of the repair and overlook the work in progress.
I have seen many cases where the total amount of the repairs often exceeded the value of the car and they are paid even though it should have been totaled if noticed in the first place.
Last edited by Roger Walling; 02-12-2015 at 06:01 PM.
Well, it happened. My 62 fuel filter bowl leaked and whoosh, up in flames.
I was quick to pull over and very quick with the extinguisher (probably had it out within 60 seconds.
Now to proceed with assessing damage and deciding how to deal with Hagerty. Hood paint, manifolds and engine compartment paint damage, and some wiring.
Can certainly repair it myself but wondering what others have learned about the best route to take ie. put in a claim and have it done professionally, or do it myself?
Anyone with insurance experience care to give some advice?
Pm me if you need help. 36 years in insurance with a few friends at Hagerty
Pm me if you need help. 36 years in insurance with a few friends at Hagerty
John Z.
I was all set to drive my vette out to Willow Springs this coming Saturday where an old hang gliding buddy of mine, Pete Brock, is likely to make a little bit more automotive history. This time not with a Corvette but with a 65 Mustang GT. Those who are interested in Peter can read what he's up to below. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2...th-aniversary/
02-09-2015, 03:40 PM
Engine fire
