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Installing body on frame after restore on 66

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Old 09-03-2014, 09:17 PM
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Gmont
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Default Installing body on frame after restore on 66

I'm just finishing the Mosport Green paint job on my 66 convertible after a complete body-off restoration. I used a forklift with straps to remove the body, but I'm afraid of causing damage to the new paint and the doors with the straps on the forklift when I set the body back on the frame. I've considered wedging a 2x4 against the rocker panel to hold the straps away from the doors, but I'm not sure how stable that would be. I would guess it would take at least 8 guys to safely lift it manually. I'm sure there are numerous methods that have been tried and would be grateful for any experienced suggestions.

Thanks!

Gene
Old 09-03-2014, 09:53 PM
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66jack
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I used the 10 man method...8 to lift it and 2 to guide it in place...

Side note..make sure you have the trans tunnel insulation on before you set it...
Old 09-03-2014, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 66jack
I used the 10 man method...8 to lift it and 2 to guide it in place...

Side note..make sure you have the trans tunnel insulation on before you set it...
Thanks go reminder on insulation because that something I would probably do. I may go with the manual method.
Old 09-04-2014, 11:01 AM
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vettsplit 63
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I would leave the mufflers off of the exhaust system, as they fit up inside the wells of the rear fenders. I put my 63 body back on with the doors off then fitted them. The straps didn't put a lot of pressure on the top over the door opening, but I put towels in there anyway. Also be sure if you use straps, have enough lifting height to clear the gas tank neck. I would also leave the fan off the motor and the alternator, but that's just me. Be aware that when you set the body down, if you use 8-10 guys, don't have the guys on the back do much lifting, they will tip it too far up in the back. And the guy supporting the front, that is all he is doing, is supporting, not lifting hard. And when you set it down, have everyone be aware of the frame and their fingers. Ask me how I know this.

PS- either remove or hang the rear exhaust panel by its top bolts only, it catches on the frame.

Last edited by vettsplit 63; 09-04-2014 at 11:04 AM.
Old 09-04-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by vettsplit 63
I would leave the mufflers off of the exhaust system, as they fit up inside the wells of the rear fenders. I put my 63 body back on with the doors off then fitted them. The straps didn't put a lot of pressure on the top over the door opening, but I put towels in there anyway. Also be sure if you use straps, have enough lifting height to clear the gas tank neck. I would also leave the fan off the motor and the alternator, but that's just me. Be aware that when you set the body down, if you use 8-10 guys, don't have the guys on the back do much lifting, they will tip it too far up in the back. And the guy supporting the front, that is all he is doing, is supporting, not lifting hard. And when you set it down, have everyone be aware of the frame and their fingers. Ask me how I know this.

PS- either remove or hang the rear exhaust panel by its top bolts only, it catches on the frame.
Good tip on mufflers, alternator and fan. I will probably leave doors on because I'm concerned about flex on the body since it is a convertible. I'm leaning toward using the forklift with a lot of padding. Just don't want to leave strap impressions on new paint.
Thanks
Old 09-04-2014, 11:34 AM
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00fxd
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Is the front glass and dash installed?
I found that the best way to pick up the body is to attach to the body mounts inside the car just in front of the parcel tray and if the glass and dash are out, through the windshield frame to the front body mounts. Then you aren't wrapping 'around' the body and paint.
Old 09-04-2014, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 00fxd
Is the front glass and dash installed?
I found that the best way to pick up the body is to attach to the body mounts inside the car just in front of the parcel tray and if the glass and dash are out, through the windshield frame to the front body mounts. Then you aren't wrapping 'around' the body and paint.
The windshield is out but the driver side dash is still in. I saw a picture of a 63-64 somewhere that they had used your method but didn't know how they attached the straps. I'll look into it. Thanks.
Old 09-04-2014, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Gmont
The windshield is out but the driver side dash is still in. I saw a picture of a 63-64 somewhere that they had used your method but didn't know how they attached the straps. I'll look into it. Thanks.


With the glass out, I hooked the S-hooks into the kick vent holes. An alternate is the female latch mounts on the firewall.
The rear attachments are to the outboard seatbelt anchors. Since I was worried about nose droop, the front straps were hooked to the core support. Probably not mandatory.

Notice the support angle irons from the top door hinge back to an "L" bracket attached to the door latch nut plate.

Hard to see, but an engine leveler allowed me to get the body angle just right.

This was a 2 man operation and went off without a hitch. FWIW.
Old 09-04-2014, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary

With the glass out, I hooked the S-hooks into the kick vent holes. An alternate is the female latch mounts on the firewall.
The rear attachments are to the outboard seatbelt anchors. Since I was worried about nose droop, the front straps were hooked to the core support. Probably not mandatory.

Notice the support angle irons from the top door hinge back to an "L" bracket attached to the door latch nut plate.
Hard to see, but an engine leveler allowed me to get the body angle just right.
This was a 2 man operation and went off without a hitch. FWIW.
Good pic. S hooks to the vents? Hmmm. No bending? Good.
"An alternate is the female latch mounts on the firewall." Do you mean the female HOOD latches?

Frank
Old 09-04-2014, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 00fxd
Good pic. S hooks to the vents? Hmmm. No bending? Good.
"An alternate is the female latch mounts on the firewall." Do you mean the female HOOD latches?

Frank
Mike,

Thanks for photo and procedure. I noticed u had ur doors braced. Could I leave doors in?

Gene
Old 09-04-2014, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 00fxd
Good pic. S hooks to the vents? Hmmm. No bending? Good.
"An alternate is the female latch mounts on the firewall." Do you mean the female HOOD latches?

Frank

Frank: not the latches. I take them off and bolt on a plate with a hook hole. Just one way to skin this cat... MIke
Old 09-04-2014, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Gmont
Mike,

Thanks for photo and procedure. I noticed u had ur doors braced. Could I leave doors in?

Gene
Gene: you could, but I was worried about the body flexing and the door edge making contact with the jamb. The paint (lacquer) was still pretty soft and would imprint under pressure.

Not much of a concern with BC/CC, but could still cause a chip?

Mike
Old 09-04-2014, 04:49 PM
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...and don't forget about the gas pedal lever that goes through the front of the tranny tunnel (if you removed it, that is).

bt
Old 09-04-2014, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary
Frank: not the latches. I take them off and bolt on a plate with a hook hole. Just one way to skin this cat... MIke
Hi Mike, your are talking about the hood latch points tho. I like it. I will keep that in mind for next time. I don't like wrapping the body..
Old 09-04-2014, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BT427
...and don't forget about the gas pedal lever that goes through the front of the tranny tunnel (if you removed it, that is).

bt
and the A-arm rubber flaps.
Old 09-05-2014, 08:28 AM
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When my time comes (many years from now), I will probably host a body re-install party with 10-12 of my closest associates.

My best buddy and I will take the supervise and observe positions, and have about 8-10 guys do the lifting, nice and slow, with minimizing stress points that might flex the body and result in body and paint cracks in the future.

Then we'll play - adult beverages, too.

I'm watching this thread for all the potential hang-up points.
Old 09-05-2014, 09:26 AM
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Also, put on the 'badge/flag' on the pass side before you install the blower motor...if the motor is put on first it virtually impossible to put that flag on...

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Old 09-05-2014, 09:38 AM
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I am now having second thoughts about my plan for re-installing of my Coupe body to frame.

All along I have been planning on removing doors, shooting the door jams and all hard to reach areas etc....while on the dolly. After that I was planning on dropping body back onto Frame.

Then using the Noland Adams method of re-installing and shimming body down onto frame, and with doors re-installed to make sure everything is secured, aligned etc....My thinking and worry was also with flex / cracking securing body to frame.

After that is when I was planning to then shooting the body, after taping etc...everything off.

So, now I'm thinking is it maybe better to paint entire body while on dolly (Obviously Easier) but there is the potential of damage to paint as OP is describing.

Can anyone care to share which is the method most used and or recommended? Six of one, half dozen of the other....

Thanks,
RK

Last edited by RoadKing96; 09-05-2014 at 09:40 AM.
Old 09-05-2014, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
When my time comes (many years from now), I will probably host a body re-install party with 10-12 of my closest associates.

My best buddy and I will take the supervise and observe positions, and have about 8-10 guys do the lifting, nice and slow, with minimizing stress points that might flex the body and result in body and paint cracks in the future.

Then we'll play - adult beverages, too.

I'm watching this thread for all the potential hang-up points.
Ten guys works great - eight lifters, and two spotters with alignment pins - takes less than a minute.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 66jack
Also, put on the 'badge/flag' on the pass side before you install the blower motor...if the motor is put on first it virtually impossible to put that flag on...
Excellent reminder. My buddy and I were discussing that very thing yesterday afternoon, along with the tunnel insulation, fan, alternator, mufflers and rear valance that u had previously mentioned. If u think of any other problem areas please let me know. Thanks!


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