65 fuelie hot start problmes
#21
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#23
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#24
Racer
No, I do not. But sometimes I ask myself if the engine has cooled enough for a cold start procedure, but I have figured out that on my fuelie even a semi-cooled engine needs the hot start method. The cold start procedure will flood a warm engine, but If the engine is flooded it will start after some seconds of cranking with the throttle fully open.
#25
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No, I do not. But sometimes I ask myself if the engine has cooled enough for a cold start procedure, but I have figured out that on my fuelie even a semi-cooled engine needs the hot start method. The cold start procedure will flood a warm engine, but If the engine is flooded it will start after some seconds of cranking with the throttle fully open.
Always begin with the throttle wide open. If the engine fires, great. You are on your way.
If the engine doesn't immediately fire, it's telling you it's not getting fuel. In that case, take your foot off the throttle and crank the engine. It will then fire.
In either case the engine may run roughly due to fuel perc. If that happens, immediately start driving. Don't wait for the engine to smooth out. As soon as you start driving the engine will instantly run smoothly. Instantly..... like flipping a switch.
The techniques I've just described are applicable to all fuelies, not just a 7380 model like the OP owns.
Jim
#26
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Just to update everyone and maybe close out this thread.
I checked for proper operation of the enrichment solenoid by disconnecting it from the microswitch and jumpering it to the battery. It clicked nicely on and off.
I then verified that the purple wire going into the microswitch was connected to the right terminal on the starter motor so that it only gets voltage when it is cranking. I did find that that post is grounded when the car is off - this makes it hard to verify proper microswitch operation by ohming it out when connected, but disconnected it worked fine.
I then reconnected everything and disconnected the coil and grounded it so the car would not start and connected a voltmeter to the solenoid side of the microswitch.
As to not flood the engine too much I did this quickly...no pedal, crank the engine - saw 9V at the solenoid, then stepped on the pedal and the voltage went to 0V.
So it looks like the full circuit and hardware is working correctly.
I will try the no-ethanol gas (which is hard to get in CT) with lead to boost the octane if I cannot find high octane. I will also be more careful on my hot start. I may have had the same problem where I thought the car may have cooled off and did a cold start when I should have done a hot start. I will always try the hot start procedure and then go to cold start if it doesn't start.
Thanks for your help.
I checked for proper operation of the enrichment solenoid by disconnecting it from the microswitch and jumpering it to the battery. It clicked nicely on and off.
I then verified that the purple wire going into the microswitch was connected to the right terminal on the starter motor so that it only gets voltage when it is cranking. I did find that that post is grounded when the car is off - this makes it hard to verify proper microswitch operation by ohming it out when connected, but disconnected it worked fine.
I then reconnected everything and disconnected the coil and grounded it so the car would not start and connected a voltmeter to the solenoid side of the microswitch.
As to not flood the engine too much I did this quickly...no pedal, crank the engine - saw 9V at the solenoid, then stepped on the pedal and the voltage went to 0V.
So it looks like the full circuit and hardware is working correctly.
I will try the no-ethanol gas (which is hard to get in CT) with lead to boost the octane if I cannot find high octane. I will also be more careful on my hot start. I may have had the same problem where I thought the car may have cooled off and did a cold start when I should have done a hot start. I will always try the hot start procedure and then go to cold start if it doesn't start.
Thanks for your help.