VITIV Coupe

I just bought my lifelong dream car last Wed. 07/23. and have been having a few surprises and trouble since then. Its a beautiful car, excellent paint and rust free body. Picked it up and drove it home, say 45min / 35 miles, mostly country driving. Thurs evening went for a spin around town, started ok, drove it 10 min, shut it off for 15 min and hop back in, drove thru town (3 miles)and it started to bog down, stumble and then finally quit. Took air cleaner off and didn't see anything unusual, waited about 30min after checking things over and she started right up, went home (10min). Yesterday was going to a car show about 20miles away. Temperature was 72F. Started car up and drove thru town (8 mi,), got out in the country, criuzin down the road, everything is ok and all of the sudden, started doing it again(5 mi.), pull off side of the road, wait 15 min, started up but I only got 1/4 mi. away and it did it again, waited 15min and started right up, this time I almost got back home (15 min , 7 miles) and it did it again, I did notice that the fuel in the fuel filter has a whole lot of air bubles, looked like it was boiling and the top rad hose was super hot, waited 1/2 hour and it started right up, drove the next mile and home in the garage for now, until I can figure this gremlin out. This car has been a bit of a challenge, no oil filler spout, incorrect intake manifold, no PCV system, temp gauge doesn't work. I am waiting on my shop manual, but we're still using dog sled for mail delivery up here. I need help desperately as to why it keeps shutting down or I'll be a single guy before to long. To me its a classic example of overheating but there is nothing on the ground underneath from the overflow hose. Should some of the ports on the carb be capped off because not being used? Is the vac/ adv on the distributor going to the correct port, I saw on some 327/365 that the vacuum line goes to a port on the front of the carburetor. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Bowtyeguy

You do know that is a later model quadrajet carb on there not a holley. The front cap off is for a PCV Valve motor. You have 2 fuel filters on that car. The clear one and one at the inlet on the carb. I would check the other one which is either a stone or paper filter and easy and cheap to replace.Open the gas tank and look inside and see if you see rust or gunk. Get rid of the rubber lines going to the carb as they are a fire hazard. Thats a start for you. The oil fill will have to be a manifold change back to the correct one. Check the wire going to the sender for temp gauge. These cars are 50 years old and all have gremlins.

Nowhere Man

Just to add. Your body is made of fiberglass it can not rust. However the inner stucture called the bird cage and the frame is steel and that can rust.

Bluestripe67

I completely agree with the fuel problem assessment and correction, but you have a semi serious problem. You have no way to add oil to the engine. The normal fill spout is missing, (you know this) and the valve covers do not have a (modification for a) fill opening. The PCV issue can create some serious internal vapor pressure resulting in oil leaks and blown oil seals under the intake. You need to make some changes. Here is my suggestions. By changing the intake to a correct used one you get the needed fill spout. Then you can use a correct Holley replacement carb with the right connections. Then comes the correct air filter base so the rear crankcase vent can be properly hooked up. At this point the aluminum valve covers can stay on. Having said all that, here is a second path too follow. Take it back to the sales lot and explain to them the oil fill problem and the other related issues. Some later model Vette valve cover that have a fill hole can be used. Ask them why the temp gauge doesn't work. I'm guessing that you may have not had this car looked over by a knowledgable Vette person. We here on the CF are very willing to help. Dennis

VITIV Coupe

Thanks Dennis, I completely agree. When I saw the car on the lot, I had to have it. I knew all these problems going in, I just had to have this car. The dealer is sourcing a period correct intake (Winter). I have it in writing, once I get that, then the building process begins, in the meantime, I would like to drive it a little, around town. I just can't figure out why is is quitting on me? See original post.

Easy Rhino

As you know, the guys here are tons of help.

You can add oil to your engine, back through the vent tube that goes from the crankcase to the air cleaner, but it is not easy.

Note that your fuel lines are very close to the top coolant hose - among your other fixes, reroute the fuel line well away from that heat source. This could likely be the source of your overheated fuel.

Be safe, and enjoy.

tbarb

I would look to see if a later quadrajet all steel fuel line will work on your car. Your fuel line set up is dangerous IMO.

Also, if the fuel filters check out and look fine consider the ignition coil as a culprit. That's the way they fail, what type of coil is there now.

Kerrmudgeon

Best quick fix while you wait for the correct intake would be to change valve covers to a breather one on one side and a fill plug and PCV on the other like the LT1 covers. You can either use that breather vent tube or put an expansion plug in it for now. Reroute your fuel line and filter away from the heat. AND, get a cheap IR tester. I got mine at Canadian Tire for about 30$ so you can get an accurate read at different points on the motor.
That thing is starving for air.....it's a wonder it runs at all. Don't drive it like that unless you want SERIOUS problems soon.
Cheers

Pilot Dan

Lot's of good advise. Just to add, you can't expect a collection of dysfunctional parts put together to work reliably or at all for that matter. Get yourself the 64 AIM (assembly information manual) and pick a carb set up and collect and install things correctly. That is the shortest route to getting the engine to operate trouble free. I have no problem with a proper Edelbrock set up either if that's what you want, but then you need to consider air cleaner clearance.
A factory AFB with cast iron intake and all correct plumbing is what I have on my 64 and it is bullet proof. I have not touched a thing since I installed it over 8 years ago. Zero carb problems. Old Holley's are more prone to problems (check the threads). One last thing, when you check the fuel filters, look carefully for brown dust (rust) which gets past the pick up and filters and ends up in the carb and could cause the problem you describe. Don't overlook the gas tank itself either. They rust from the inside out. pic

Gary's '66

With this one and all the above posts. Not allowing crank case ventilation is bad news and needs to be addressed ASAP!!! You should make that you're #1 priority.

Bowtyeguy

I think the easiest way would be to buy stock newer valve covers with the oil and PCV valve setup in them already and tap your PCV line thats already there but plugged.That will solve a couple problems for cheap. Im sure you could get LT1 Valve covers for 100 bucks off CL or even the regular orange ones. CHECK the fuel filter in the carb not the clear one. When it shut off did you pump the throttle and see if you were getting gas? It will take some tinkering but you will be OK.

VITIV Coupe

Thanks for all your comments, I really do appreciate it. I really love this car and it is going to be with us for a long,long time. I am going to do things right and only once. The car is parked in the garage now, tomorrow morning, I am taking the whole top end off and this car will not start again until I have the correct intake (Winters aluminum) and all the PCV lines, temp sensor and all the rest. I have waited an entire lifetime for this car, I'm not about to mess it up now. Again, thanks for all your help.
Leo

Gary's '66

Fixing something the right way is ALWAYS best in the long run.

Kerrmudgeon

Now I couldn't do that waiting thing! I'd be doing the temporary thing to get to enjoying driving your dream car you waited so long for in the meantime. In a couple of hours and a few bucks you could be driving it instead of admiring it in the garage for maybe.....months! Your call.

Where abouts are you in Ontario?.....I'm in Ottawa. :

VITIV Coupe

I'm in Cambridge. I have the correct intake on the way. I just spent the last two hours on Eckler's Corvette web site ordering all the parts I need to get this back to originality, even the correct fuel filter GF-90 / A1767. It was like going thru the Sears catalog. I just hope I did my homework right.lol I should be back on the road by next week hopefully. Gives me more time to ride the Harley, since I have been ignoring lately.

Gary's '66

Yeah, my bike isn't getting ridden as much as it used to either. JMO, but I would also install at least some of the shielding (I like spending other peoples $) the engine bay will look so much better and will help to sort out your plug wires. I would just buy the top cover and side pieces, wing nuts, left upper bracket (you already have the right side) and wire grommets.

BTW, speaking of plug wires. I could be wrong, but it looks like the wires going into the cap have been re-clocked for some reason.

Gary

3Mar67

Hello from Oakville, Ontario Egor.
I was going to suggest the same thing about the shielding.
Once you know what these engine compartments are supposed to look like, they just don't look right with certain components missing...like the top and side shields....and correct expansion tank cap ....and.....etc......lol

Which intake manifold did you end up getting?

Hope you get the car on the road soon.

Poorhousenext

Just for giggles, drive it with someone with you, and if it and when it quits, check to see if you have spark. Check it at coil first, if there check at plugs.

You should be able to tell if there is a vapor lock problem easily enough at same time.

JohnZ

Yes, they have - here's the correct wire indexing in the cap and distributor orientation - it only matters on Corvettes, due to the upper ignition shield fitment.

VITIV Coupe

Yes, they were recapped, I did it because it looked like less overlapping of wires. I didn't know there was a specific orientation on the cap. I will definatley make the change, thanks for the picture JohnZ. You guys are killing me about that shielding. I know all about the shielding and how much it cost but I have to go buying these parts real slow and just get the important ones now or I'll be a single guy before to long and I'm not ready to hit the bar scene at 63 years young. lol