Ethanol, fuelies, and hot weather.
#41
Drifting
rustylugnuts
#42
Melting Slicks
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There is, however, a significant difference in performance between E10 and non-ethanol gas. Today's alcohol-free gas very clearly improved percolation problems in both of my 63 fuelies when compared to the way they performed with E10. No question about it. Did percolation go away totally without ethanol? NO, but it was way more tolerable.
If you want it to go away totally, in addition to using non-alcohol gas, you need to cool the fuel before it hits the spider. Fuel in my cars reached 170 degrees F before it even got to the fuel pump, let alone the spider. That is more than hot enough to boil some of the components of modern gasoline.
The changes made to my fuel lines cooled the fuel by 25- 30 degrees and, when combined with non-alcolhol fuel, made percolation go way, totally. When I switched them to E10 both cars percolated again, but, with the revised fuel lines, not enough to cause me any serious problems.
While that's not exactly what you asked for, mine is a solution that depends on the use of non-alcolhol fuel, a solution that eliminates percolation problems in mid-years. It also doesn't work remotely as well with E10.
#43
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Mike, You're asking a lot: many fuelies had percolation problems when hot, back in 1963, even using leaded, alcohol-free Sunoco 260,. You want some miracle to make today's non-alcohol gas better than that? Not gonna happen.
There is, however, a significant difference in performance between E10 and non-ethanol gas. Today's alcohol-free gas very clearly improved percolation problems in both of my 63 fuelies when compared to the way they performed with E10. No question about it. Did percolation go away totally without ethanol? NO, but it was way more tolerable.
While that's not exactly what you asked for, mine is a solution that depends on the use of non-alcolhol fuel, a solution that eliminates percolation problems in mid-years. It also doesn't work remotely as well with E10.
There is, however, a significant difference in performance between E10 and non-ethanol gas. Today's alcohol-free gas very clearly improved percolation problems in both of my 63 fuelies when compared to the way they performed with E10. No question about it. Did percolation go away totally without ethanol? NO, but it was way more tolerable.
While that's not exactly what you asked for, mine is a solution that depends on the use of non-alcolhol fuel, a solution that eliminates percolation problems in mid-years. It also doesn't work remotely as well with E10.
But you say the non-alcohol gas improves the running of your car. Unfortunately, you don't specify if the non- E 10 is pump gas or???????????
Everybody here knows the aeroplane gas and racing gas will make the problems go away if you have any. Please clarify what non E 10 gasoline your are using.
#44
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St. Jude Donor '07
Mike, You're asking a lot: many fuelies had percolation problems when hot, back in 1963, even using leaded, alcohol-free Sunoco 260,. You want some miracle to make today's non-alcohol gas better than that? Not gonna happen.
There is, however, a significant difference in performance between E10 and non-ethanol gas. Today's alcohol-free gas very clearly improved percolation problems in both of my 63 fuelies when compared to the way they performed with E10. No question about it. Did percolation go away totally without ethanol? NO, but it was way more tolerable.
If you want it to go away totally, in addition to using non-alcohol gas, you need to cool the fuel before it hits the spider. Fuel in my cars reached 170 degrees F before it even got to the fuel pump, let alone the spider. That is more than hot enough to boil some of the components of modern gasoline.
The changes made to my fuel lines cooled the fuel by 25- 30 degrees and, when combined with non-alcolhol fuel, made percolation go way, totally. When I switched them to E10 both cars percolated again, but, with the revised fuel lines, not enough to cause me any serious problems.
While that's not exactly what you asked for, mine is a solution that depends on the use of non-alcolhol fuel, a solution that eliminates percolation problems in mid-years. It also doesn't work remotely as well with E10.
There is, however, a significant difference in performance between E10 and non-ethanol gas. Today's alcohol-free gas very clearly improved percolation problems in both of my 63 fuelies when compared to the way they performed with E10. No question about it. Did percolation go away totally without ethanol? NO, but it was way more tolerable.
If you want it to go away totally, in addition to using non-alcohol gas, you need to cool the fuel before it hits the spider. Fuel in my cars reached 170 degrees F before it even got to the fuel pump, let alone the spider. That is more than hot enough to boil some of the components of modern gasoline.
The changes made to my fuel lines cooled the fuel by 25- 30 degrees and, when combined with non-alcolhol fuel, made percolation go way, totally. When I switched them to E10 both cars percolated again, but, with the revised fuel lines, not enough to cause me any serious problems.
While that's not exactly what you asked for, mine is a solution that depends on the use of non-alcolhol fuel, a solution that eliminates percolation problems in mid-years. It also doesn't work remotely as well with E10.
BUT, i'm sure that there are those that did...
Bill
#45
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Thanks. I wasn't asking a lot. I just see many responses here that blame E 10 for all kinds of driveability problems. Yeah, I know fuelies had some hot running problems back in the days of Sunoco 260 (whatever that has to do with it).
But you say the non-alcohol gas improves the running of your car. Unfortunately, you don't specify if the non- E 10 is pump gas or???????????
Everybody here knows the aeroplane gas and racing gas will make the problems go away if you have any. Please clarify what non E 10 gasoline your are using.
But you say the non-alcohol gas improves the running of your car. Unfortunately, you don't specify if the non- E 10 is pump gas or???????????
Everybody here knows the aeroplane gas and racing gas will make the problems go away if you have any. Please clarify what non E 10 gasoline your are using.
One of my cars probably has higher compression than the other, because it knocks a bit with the 90 octane, so I add a gallon or so of 110 non-alcohol leaded racing fuel to that car when I fill the tank. That fixes the knocking, but does not effect the vaporization.
The other car doesn't need the extra octane, so I leave the racing fuel out of it.
Last edited by Vettrocious; 07-25-2014 at 11:34 PM.
#46
Drifting
The inconsistencies of E10 is it can be as high as 15% deferential from pump to pump causing severe problems. The boiling point is also increased considerably when added to gasoline, resulting in a lower BTU opposed to non-ethanol fuels. Sooo whats the upside?
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Ethanoluse.htm
http://www.fuel-testers.com/list_e10_engine_damage.html
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/937...n-in-gasoline/
Gasoline with ethanol deteriorates more rapidly than ethanol free gas and has a higher vapor pressure and a lower boiling point. The higher vapor pressure can cause problems with vapor lock, fuel percolation, and ethanol bearing fuels will absorb water from the atmosphere.
Save the corn for food & moonshine, not in our fuels!
rustylugnuts
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Ethanoluse.htm
http://www.fuel-testers.com/list_e10_engine_damage.html
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/937...n-in-gasoline/
Gasoline with ethanol deteriorates more rapidly than ethanol free gas and has a higher vapor pressure and a lower boiling point. The higher vapor pressure can cause problems with vapor lock, fuel percolation, and ethanol bearing fuels will absorb water from the atmosphere.
Save the corn for food & moonshine, not in our fuels!
rustylugnuts
Last edited by rustylugnuts; 07-26-2014 at 12:35 AM.
#47
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St. Jude Donor '07
The inconsistencies of E10 is it can be as high as 15% deferential from pump to pump causing severe problems. The boiling point is also increased considerably when added to gasoline, resulting in a lower BTU opposed to non-ethanol fuels. Sooo whats the upside?
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Ethanoluse.htm
http://www.fuel-testers.com/list_e10_engine_damage.html
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/937...n-in-gasoline/
Gasoline with ethanol deteriorates more rapidly than ethanol free gas and has a higher vapor pressure and a lower boiling point. The higher vapor pressure can cause problems with vapor lock, fuel percolation, and ethanol bearing fuels will absorb water from the atmosphere.
Save the corn for food & moonshine, not in our fuels!
rustylugnuts
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Ethanoluse.htm
http://www.fuel-testers.com/list_e10_engine_damage.html
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/937...n-in-gasoline/
Gasoline with ethanol deteriorates more rapidly than ethanol free gas and has a higher vapor pressure and a lower boiling point. The higher vapor pressure can cause problems with vapor lock, fuel percolation, and ethanol bearing fuels will absorb water from the atmosphere.
Save the corn for food & moonshine, not in our fuels!
rustylugnuts
Bill
#48
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I use automotive pump gas: 90 octane, unleaded, non-E10 (no ethanol). It is widely available here in Michigan, usually sold from normal pumps (labeled appropriately as non-ethanol), at normal gas stations. I have one a mile from my house. Many boaters here don't want ethanol (except in their martinis), so such stations are often found near lakes or rivers. They call it "recreational" gas, but its perfectly legal on the street.
One of my cars probably has higher compression than the other, because it knocks a bit with the 90 octane, so I add a gallon or so of 110 non-alcohol leaded racing fuel to that car when I fill the tank. That fixes the knocking, but does not effect the vaporization.
The other car doesn't need the extra octane, so I leave the racing fuel out of it.
One of my cars probably has higher compression than the other, because it knocks a bit with the 90 octane, so I add a gallon or so of 110 non-alcohol leaded racing fuel to that car when I fill the tank. That fixes the knocking, but does not effect the vaporization.
The other car doesn't need the extra octane, so I leave the racing fuel out of it.
Straight gasoline is available here too at marinas and other retail outlets. I've not used it because I haven't seen the need to try it. I have a ''63 fuelie and a '65 250/327. The 250 hp car doesn't have perc problems, never has had. The heat riser works and the intake heat crossover isn't blocked. Must have something to do with regional differences in fuel blends and there is more to fuel blending than just dumping in a dose of ethanol.
Have you tried 89 octane E 10? That is what I use with little to no issues. Less octane could mean less ethanol (or other additives) which can cause driveability problems?
Last edited by MikeM; 07-26-2014 at 07:16 AM.
#49
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So back to the OP's question................................ .........
He is asking about Texas gasoline. I know NOTHING about current Texas gasoline because it's been years since I bought any there. I only know what I've read here and I'm not sure if what I've read here about it is totally accurate.
He is asking about Texas gasoline. I know NOTHING about current Texas gasoline because it's been years since I bought any there. I only know what I've read here and I'm not sure if what I've read here about it is totally accurate.
Last edited by MikeM; 07-26-2014 at 07:21 AM.