Pop Chevy

I was putting the exhaust system (2 1/2" under car) on the car and was looking at the rear suspension. It looks like there is too much going on back there and is probably binding up. Its got ladder bars with the leaf springs with the top links (one is already broken off ) and the rear sway bar also. I'm thinking the top links need to go and maybe the sway bar. I feel the ladder bars and leafs will act as a 4 link system ??? This is a project car I bought a year ago and is almost ready to drive. I would like to keep the ladder bars if posible. NO it's not original, it's a hot rod Vette complete with flames on the side !! Good advice is needed.

vetrod62

Yep, you got it right. Every thing is binding. The top bars are a joke in every way. They are only good for reverse burn outs, maybe???

If you want to keep the ladder bars, then the rear leaf springs need to be set up as floaters because the springs and ladder bars are also creating a binding situation. Same as leaf springs and Traction Masters.

Your instant center looks about correct, but the spread on the ladder bars at the rear appears to be too small. Jim

Pop Chevy

I was hoping you would chime in !

the rear leaf springs need to be set up as floaters

what's the best way to go about that?
Also , will the rear end hold up to some drag strip use or will it puke quickly? 355 w/ probably over 400 hp. it's got 4:11 gears. Thanks !

vetrod62

There are lots of ways to do floaters. See the pictures in the link below. Some are easy to do, others a lot of work. Just be sure the floater runs front to rear, not including left to right.

I am going out on a limb, but I guess you are more interested in the Old School look rather than the performance result. If so , I would not hammer those ladder bars too hard. The look very weak. Lots of weakness in the bends that are not supported by triangulation. My guess is the your car was so bound up that the set up did little for traction, but controlled wheel hop. So no real force on the ladder bars to lift the car.

As you suspect, the stock chevy rear is too weak for any traction. It will blow. If you want to race this car, even softly, put in a 9" with after market parts and a 4.75" bolt pattern. Sell the stock rear, some good money there. Jim


https://www.google.com/search?q=leaf...&bih=930&dpr=1

Pop Chevy

No, actually I'd like to come race with your group. So I guess I am looking at a ford 9" and a total rethink of the rear suspension. I do however like the old school look. Hmmmm. What do you think of Meyers 4 link setup ? Or I do have a set of slapper bars here.

Plastic Pig

9 inch with slapper bars and the top bars disconnected is all you need. Much cheaper and easier than messing with ladder bars and sliders. IMHO ladder bars are best left on the track.

I don't think the rear sway bar makes any difference on way or the other

Pop Chevy

Hah, I'm glad you said that cause those things were headed for the scrap yard next trip ! I have a Lincoln Versaille 9" here and a detroit locker for it. Now to figure width and get axles. 31 spline strong enough?

vetrod62

The Meyers 4 link is much lighter, but is not legal in our race series. The stock front suspension is just fine, if in decent condition. Does not have to be perfect. Disc brakes a must. The faster cars are over 120+ mph.

The slapper bars are more than enough, as Plastic Pig ( Bob states and is a member of our race series). Set up as aggressively as I do, you can break any thing in the drive train. The 9" with all after market parts ( I prefer Strange parts)will probably survive, if not too aggressive with 31 axles. I had to finally go to a spool and 35 spline axles.

I am glad you are interested in racing with us. I know you have done many other forms of racing and are welcome to see how you can up our game. We need new members as the economy and health problems have cost us some racers.

The stock corvette flange to flange is 54 or 55" Jim

9" axle widths....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...e-upgrade.html

Roger Walling

FINNALY, AT LAST!
There is some real talk on how to really work on a Corvette.

I really have been tired of people asking what size screw is original in the whatis thingyabob.



ps, I have a 57 Olds rear with a 59 positrac and 31 axels in my 57 street car. (old drag Corvette)

Pop Chevy

Wow ! After a years work, I got to take my car for a ride for the 1st time this afternoon. For sure everything is in a bind. It felt like there was NO rear suspension at all. The only give was in the tires ! I don't know how the PO drove it that way? I took some pics, but my internet was down all day, just came back on a little bit ago. Pops

Pop Chevy

Here it is ! A warmed up 355 w/alum heads, scatter shield and BW S(?) T-10, Posi 4:10. A good place to start.

vettsplit 63

Jim, that is an outside to outside dimension isn't it? ( I have located a 9 inch that I can buy that is a Currie that measures about 47" to the inside flange. That may be too narrow.)

vetrod62

54 or 55 inches is the flange to flange length. The flange is where the brake backing plates bolt on. Drum to drum width would be 5" wider or 59 to 60" total width. 47" would never work unless you back half the car, which is not necessary and would ruin the car.

You can get housings made to your spec's from Strange, Moser and others. No big deal. The upside is you can have the axles made as you want and specify that they use a 4.75" bolt pattern and lug studs of your diameter and length. Jim

vetrod62

Pops, the car looks great!! I would not change a thing appearance wise. Two things to check before hamming on it if you do not want destroy parts that are easy to sell.

1. confirm transmission is T-10, ST-10 or Speed shop ST-10.

2. Get a stronger rear.

Jim

sub006

I'd consider keeping the cool paint scheme!

Pop Chevy

The trans is a full cast iron case T-10. after checking all the numbers, it appears to be an over the counter unit built in 1972 same as the blown up CE 327 that was in the car. I am told it's a pretty good trans. Unusual gearset (to me) 1st thru 3rd are close, then a big jump to 4th. Probably be great in the 1/8 mile.
The car is a true 70's custom that someone spent a ton of money on then blew the engine and parked it. it's got white button tuck seats and door panels w/ mirrors built in ! The front sus and brakes were all rebuilt including sintered metallic brake shoes. The inspection sticker expired in 1975. Now it lives again !!
.
Thanks, it is indeed different. Kinda like me !

62Jeff

What a neat period-piece!

vetrod62

Full cast iron cases and tail housings on early T-10s were 10/16 input/out put. ST-10s were alum. 26/32. Speed shop ST-10s were all cast iron, 10/27. T-10s were all 2.20 first. ST-10s had many first gear ratios. It sure sounds like you have the Speed shop ST-10. Very strong.

Congrats on finding a great car. I have lots of tips to make these cars fast and not break. Jim

My major racing buddy and friend has a Pro Shifted ST-10 2.64 first Speed shop in his 61 vette. Great on the track, sucks on the street. No syncros.

Pop Chevy

I forgot to ask. Do you have a drive shaft hoop and how far back did you go on the X frame ? The car does have a bigger shaft.
Yes, the trans has the coarse spline in front, that's what had me confused. But the casting date was 1972.

vetrod62

No drive shaft hoop, I have been meaning to do that for years, you know how that goes. When I blew the trans yoke 3 years ago, the shaft tried to come through the tunnel. Fixed the glass, went to a steel yoke over the cast one. When I twisted the stock drive shaft, the drive shaft company could not straighten it, so I had them make a stronger one with better metal in the same 2.5" diameter with 1330 spicer u-joints. No problem so far. I have another 61 vette that has a 3" Heavy wall drive shaft that clears the tunnel, no problems.

I would pull your drive shaft and count the out put splines to be sure.

BTW, I have lowered my trans and cut a little out of the X-frame to achieve the maximum shaft clearance when lifting the wheels.