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Thanks Dan! I read the thread, and saw that the master of information, JohnZ, recommended the Spicer 5-785X. It seems to have been replaced with a new part number of 1310x. I found these on Amazon. Do you think that they will work? They are the same measurements.
Thanks Dan! I read the thread, and saw that the master of information, JohnZ, recommended the Spicer 5-785X. It seems to have been replaced with a new part number of 1310x. I found these on Amazon. Do you think that they will work? They are the same measurements.
That is the correct U-joint. Just did mine this afternoon.
Thanks Dan! I was thinking of just ordering them from Amazon because I need some transmission oil too and they have it. Free shipping on the U joints too. I figure that, since Ecklers seems to be the worst place on earth to order from, (over a month waiting on fork) I am probably not in that much of a hurray. I really want to get this running, but I would imagine that it will be a week before I can find time.
Did you have your driveshaft balanced after you put you U joints in or not?
I know you are looking forward to getting the car back together again but there is one other thing I would look at first. That's the condition of the rear transmission bushing and the yoke for excess wear. If the barrel of the yoke show a lot of wear and if there is up and down play when it's installed in the tail end of the transmission, I would go ahead and have the bushing replaced and if necessary replace the yoke. It's a fairly common wear area.
Also wouldn't hurt to inspect the front bearing retainer sleeve for wear from the throw out bearing and also the clutch fork for unusual wear. I guess that's 3 more things.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 07-17-2014 at 06:17 PM.
I got the U-joints from dennysdriveshaft.com. I had put the NAPA US-made joints in the car a few years ago and one was already too loose for my taste after only 1000 miles. The Spicers are of apparently far better quality and actually cost less than the NAPA product.
Dan is spot-on about the output shaft bushing. My yoke was destroyed and I feared there were other unseen issues in the transmission, so I took it to well known Muncie rebuilder to go through. He found the gears to be fine but had to replace a lot of other components. For as much of a bitch as it is to R&R the trans, its probably worth having it checked....especially since you aren't in a hurry to get it back together.
Is the black rubber looking thing pointed to by the orange arrow the bushing that you are talking about? My 04-021 Luk came with a bronze washer looking thing like the one in the picture. I guess that is what it is for and I should change it also. Upon re reading your post Dan, maybe that is for the front bearing retaining sleeve that you speak of. I'll have to see where it goes.
Here is a collection of pictures of the yoke that goes into the transmission. I don't see any wear on it really. What do you guys think? I definitely need to clean it up before it goes back in, but does it look okay?
Is the black rubber looking thing pointed to by the orange arrow the bushing that you are talking about? Attachment 47812736
No. The item you have the arrows pointing to is the rear seal - it's all one piece - the "black" part isn't separate - it's part of the seal. Photo of the tailhousing bushing below, with the seal removed.
The rear seal is a fairly easy removal and replacement. I believe there have been older posts about a tool to remove the rear bushing without removal of the tailhousing from the transmission. Not sure how easy they are to find though.
Your yoke doesn't look bad. When it's in the rear of the tansmission in it's normal longitudnal position is it snug without excessive play when you wiggle it? If so, then I think you are OK. A worn bushing will usually eat up the shaft of the yoke so your yoke condition is a positive sign. I would replace the seal before you reinstall - that's up to 4 additional things now.
Thanks Dan! When I put the yoke in the tail, it doesn't wiggle at all. Very nice fit.
On the front of the trans, the spline shaft that goes into the clutch will wiggle if you grab the end and move it. Is that normal? This trans seems to be in good shape. I am hoping that it be okay once it is mounted into the clutch. Thank you guys for your help as this is the first clutch and transmission that I have ever dealt with. I can add this to my bag of tricks.
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On the front of the trans, the spline shaft that goes into the clutch will wiggle if you grab the end and move it. Is that normal?
Yes, it is. The front main drive bearing is a single-row ball bearing, and has some freedom of motion until it's "piloted" in the bushing in the rear of the crankshaft.
It is a relief, as this clutch change has blossomed into some "While I'm there," behaviors. At least I don't have to worry about overhauling the transmission now.
One more suggestion - and this may catch some flak from other members. When reinstalling the transmission and just before sliding it completely home into the clutch and pilot bushing, smear a good coat of quality RTV on the front of the idler shaft and around it in the front of the case. JohnZ's last photo is a good shot of it. That's just a press fit and after 40+ years they usually leak there a little. Sometimes some RTV sandwiched between the transmission case and the bellhousing will keep it from leaking actively. It costs nothing, easy to do, causes no harm, usually works most of the time.
Finished the DEI heat shield. Took a while but it should help A LOT! Pictures didn't show up well, so I did a video instead:
Here are a couple of tools that I whipped up to help with getting the shield on there.
Here is a picture of the driveshaft with new Spicer U-joints, the newly cleaned and orange bell housing, and the 67 license plate. All sprayed with PPG clear coat. I left stripes on the driveshaft where the colored stripes were. Red and white or something. I'll paint those on before it goes back on. That end apparently goes to the transmission yoke. The other end, has a green paint spot that I will put on. Well, the license is blocked by the bell housing:
Yes Dennis, they are in the paint booth that UV polyester is shot for the basecoats on my guitars. I have a bunch of new filters, but the PPG paint rep was here Friday, and he told me that my paint booth pulls a tremendous amount of air. 7200 CFM. He said that for urethanes like PPG, an automotive booth pulls around 90 cfm. So, these filters were very good to slow the flow of air on urethanes.
I am STILL waiting on Eckler's parts!! Clutch fork and pivot ball. Supposedly, they will be here Thursday. That is 2 MONTHS!! I'll avoid Eckler's like the plague from now on. They did manage to ship every catalog that they have last week in an Eckler's box (straight to recycling) but NO parts.
Progress report. Clutch fork, pivots, and springs FINALLY got here. I installed the pilot bushing, flywheel, and clutch yesterday.
I also have all of the parts cleaned, painted and clearcoated with PPG or UV polyester. That should make it impervious to road grime. It should go back together and be a much less greasy experience. That will be nice handling clean, new-like parts. I have to paint the stripes on the driveshaft and it is off to get balanced.
I think that there is a problem with the Centerforce Release Bearing. N1716. It goes into the new clutch fork, but it moves up and down. I tried the Luk composite one, and it fits and there is no movement. I tried the original one and it is the same. No movement. Put the CF one in, and it rattles up and down a little.
There is over a .025" difference in the height of the area where it clips in. The Centerforce is that much bigger. Is the top lip supposed to be so thin? I thought that Centerforce was the best but now, I don't know. Did I just get a bad one?
Hi Mike, I looked up the National/ Federal Mogul one on O'Reilly's, and in the specs, it shows a height of .504 just like the Centerforce. It is just weird that both of the higher end bearings are .027 inch taller than stock, and look like they would cause the bearing to wear from chatter.
I don't want to do this again anytime soon. I guess that I need to call Centerforce on Monday. The composite one fits perfect. I'm almost tempted to use it and get the car finished. Can I bend the clip spring up to take up the slack to use the CF?
I went with centerfoce all the way including their T O bearing......its a great setup in my opinion.............oh ya bronze pilot busing too.......except i was man enough to do it like you.....i pulled the engine......hi
07-17-2014, 04:30 PM
Dennis
