59-60 FI throttle linkage position help
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
59-60 FI throttle linkage position help
Can anyone on the CF post close-up pictures of the throttle rod and the accelerator linkage bracket at the firewall that it attaches to. Would prefer a 59, but a 60 should be the same. My bracket (possibly incorrect for a 59), will not allow proper positioning to allow the bellcrank throttle rod to adjust to allow WOT of the FI unit. If the swivel on the rod is turned toward the firewall to insert into the bracket, then the accelerator pedal is moved closer to the floor, with this adjustment, resulting in less distance to mash the pedal to the floor and thus less opening of the FI throttle blade and less acceleration. ANYWAY, not to confuse everyone, if I had pictures to compare with my set-up, I could tell maybe what is wrong with it. TIA Al Also posted with the other guys for help.
#3
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I've got an injected '60 and can make pictures. How about posting a picture of the linkage on your car from the POV you want to see. I'll use the same POV when I make a photo of the linkage on mine.
Jim
Jim
#5
Tech Contributor
Anyone can post pictures. Using the Advanced option instead of he Quick Reply option, you should see a paper clip icon. Use that icon to access a screen where you can Browse files on your computer and Attach them to you forum post.
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#8
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Got the concept of what you need to see. I'll make similar pictures.
However, I can already tell you that the linkage angles on my car look very similar to those on yours. Also, as on your car, the adjuster on my car's link rod is pretty much at the end of its travel.
Stay tuned,
Jim
However, I can already tell you that the linkage angles on my car look very similar to those on yours. Also, as on your car, the adjuster on my car's link rod is pretty much at the end of its travel.
Stay tuned,
Jim
#10
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Here's the linkage on my FI car and I do see a difference between it and yours:
Notice the angles between the two bellcrank's arms. Yours is closer to 90 degrees while mine is, making a SWAG, 130-ish degrees. You'll run out of throttle arm travel before the FI is at WOT. I don't.
The bellcrank on my FI is a repop and I have no idea where I bought it; I've had it forever. Maybe you can contact some of the reputable parts vendors and get them to make comparison measurements for you.
Hope this helps,
Jim
Notice the angles between the two bellcrank's arms. Yours is closer to 90 degrees while mine is, making a SWAG, 130-ish degrees. You'll run out of throttle arm travel before the FI is at WOT. I don't.
The bellcrank on my FI is a repop and I have no idea where I bought it; I've had it forever. Maybe you can contact some of the reputable parts vendors and get them to make comparison measurements for you.
Hope this helps,
Jim
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks All for the pictures. I've noticed my throttle rod is not original, so I'm going to cut the bell crank end off to shorten it up, then rebend it to get more pedal travel. Bubba's got to show up a little on this one.
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Al, whether the throttle rod is an original or not, it looks correctly formed.
#14
Racer
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Jim, I ordered accelerator lever, accelerator pivot rod (rod that goes from pedal thru the firewall to the lever). new bushings for the pivot rod. All were extremely close to mine (which I presume to be the originals 80,000 miles and I'm the 3rd owner). I did not install these on my car, however as mine were correct. This was done in an effort to eliminate these as a possible source of the problem. Only thing I know to get the WOT throttle is shortening the throttle rod, by approx. 1". Will keep everyone posted on the results probably around Thurs. (I smashed my thumb real bad today changing out the coil springs on my wife's 67. Will not be able to use it much for a few days, just hope nothing's broken or chipped.)
#15
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St. Jude Donor '07
Bubba ideas...
before you cut and weld the bellcrank; disconnect the rod from the bellcrank, then floor the accelerator pedal and pull the bellcrank to WOT and see how far down from the top of the existing bellcrank hole you would have to drill a new hole to get WOT (maybe a 1/2" or a bit more); this will increase the amount of bellcrank travel relative accelerator pedal movement (but will require a bit more pedal pressure to cause movement (less mechanical advantage)).
or, bend upward the pedal linkage (the end the pedal rests on inside the car). this will allow more distance for the pedal to travel before the floor.
Bill
before you cut and weld the bellcrank; disconnect the rod from the bellcrank, then floor the accelerator pedal and pull the bellcrank to WOT and see how far down from the top of the existing bellcrank hole you would have to drill a new hole to get WOT (maybe a 1/2" or a bit more); this will increase the amount of bellcrank travel relative accelerator pedal movement (but will require a bit more pedal pressure to cause movement (less mechanical advantage)).
or, bend upward the pedal linkage (the end the pedal rests on inside the car). this will allow more distance for the pedal to travel before the floor.
Bill
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Hey Bill, I wouldn't want to increase pedal pressure or drill another hole in the bell crank, however, the bending of the new pedal rod might be a possibility (wouldn't want to mess up an original pc.). Though, I think modifying the throttle rod might be the easier thing, labor wise. Anyway, I've got a few days waiting to regain use of thumb. Thanks for the suggestions!! Al