alexandervdr

I am trying to sort out how the headlamps are supposed to work, my 64 came with none functioning (the lamps themselves are ok)
Here are my questions, some may sound stupid...


1. one of the lamps is two prone (inboard), the other 3 prone (outboard). The 2 prone is low beam only , the 3 prone low beam and high beam . Is this correct?

2. why on the shop manual wiring scheme, there are TWO 3-prone lamps drawn?

3. does this mean that in low beam mode , both lamps are fed and shine with voltage at their low beam input connector?

4. in high beam mode, there is voltage at ALL lamp connectors, having low beam ON on both inboard/outboard and high beam ON on the outboard lamp. Is this correct?

5. Switching between high and low beam is with the 'dimmer switch' left to the pedals (in the user guide it is called 'headlight high beam switch). Correct?

6. Zip (and others) sell halogen versions, one called low beam, the other high beam. I assume the high beam one has both lo and hi?

wombvette

The inner(two prong) is high beam only. The outer ( three prong) is high/low. Has two filiments operated separately.

409/409

The outboard lights are high and low. The inboard are high only. When you switch to high beam the low filament in the outboard lights go out and the high filament comes on in addition to the inboard lights.

65GGvert

The tan wire feeds the outboard lights only on dim. When you switch the dimmer to high, the voltage is fed via the lt green wire to all four headlamps (different filament in the outboard lights than the tan wire feeds on dim) and of course the black wire is ground on all four lamps.

alexandervdr

Most report weak light in low beam. Wouldn't it make sense then to have both inboard and outboard 'low' beam bulbs lighting up together, and the outboard one with hi beam capability?

65GGvert

I guess they didn't want four lamps lit on dim. It's already like you said except for both lamps on each side lighting on dim. It could be rewired and dual filament bulbs put in if you allowed for the extra current in the wires and headlamp switch circuit breaker and dimmer switch current rating..

alexandervdr

I will rewire anyway to include relays. I am trying to get better performance at reasonable cost. Halogen is a cheap option, and if I install two hi/lo beam bulbs combined each side, result should be way better than original single low beam setting.

Frankie the Fink

Try the halogen with the relays first before you reinvent the wheel. I run this combo on my '61 with the original Hi/LO configuration on each side (4 headlights total) and the high beams are better than on my modern cars....

alexandervdr

Makes sense, it's the no fuzz solution that still works on millions of modern cars. And because it's 4 full headlights, should be even better, as you experienced..

409/409

I think if you wire it for all 4 on in dim mode and all 4 on on bright mode all approaching traffic will think your brights are on even on dim mode. Be prepared for everyone flashing their bright lights at you and if it's a cop he may get upset when you don't go down to 2 lights on.

leif.anderson93

Frankie,

Excuse the ignorance here, but what relays are you referring to? I thought the halogens were a "plug & play" replacement for the stock T3.

Gary's '66

They are. The relays are an add on.

Sorry, didn't realize the question was for Frankie.

wombvette

If you leave all four on in this part of the world, be prepared for a fight.

leif.anderson93

OK, thanks...what are they for then??

alexandervdr

the relays feed the 12V directly from battery (through a fusebox) to the bulbs. The relays are on/off-ed with the light switch.
Advantage is no high current through the switch (causing heat and loss of voltage) and shorter wiring (less voltage loss). So all in all higher voltage at the bulbs so more light

Frankie the Fink

Precisely - I made up my own kit but there are kits commercially available. http://madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml

Halogens have the same current draw as original T3s (or so I am told) but the voltage drop due to old wiring will affect those just like they did original lights. You can just plug them in but they might not be as bright as they could be.

rtruman

Here's the one I use from summit racing just for headlights .I split them up at the floor dimmer switch two splices and done ,I don't go thru light switch. Just tap off fuse box for high beams lights. leave the stock circuit by itself.

Frankie the Fink

That actually looks like a slicker setup than the Mad Electric product and makes it easier to preserve the original wiring IMO

leif.anderson93

Perfect. Thanks for the clear, concise explanation.

leif.anderson93

Thanks, Frankie. How about if you have all new wiring harnesses??