I can't believe this happened...AGAIN! '61 FI
06-10-2014, 04:03 PM
#21
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I'm not persuaded that what you've found so far explains the rocker arm and push rod issues you've been having. I think there are still secrets to be learned and the possibility of valve spring coil bind would be high on my list.
Jim
Jim
06-10-2014, 04:07 PM
#22
Drifting
The last thing in Powershift's first message is where to start - I think you're pulling rocker arm studs and compounding the felony with mis-matched-whatever-you've-got for lifters. Check the stud heights, get them to where they are supposed to be, PIN THEM and then start to reclaim the system.
Pin the studs for the same reason you tap the crankshaft for a bolt - 50 year old metal no longer takes well to press fits.
Pin the studs for the same reason you tap the crankshaft for a bolt - 50 year old metal no longer takes well to press fits.
06-10-2014, 06:02 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
The last thing in Powershift's first message is where to start - I think you're pulling rocker arm studs and compounding the felony with mis-matched-whatever-you've-got for lifters. Check the stud heights, get them to where they are supposed to be, PIN THEM and then start to reclaim the system.
Pin the studs for the same reason you tap the crankshaft for a bolt - 50 year old metal no longer takes well to press fits.
Pin the studs for the same reason you tap the crankshaft for a bolt - 50 year old metal no longer takes well to press fits.
06-10-2014, 06:26 PM
#24
Burning Brakes
So the engine is out! Turns out #8 had a stuck lifter and it was completely domed on the bottom, so I'm sure the cam is shot. As I took things apart on the engine, I noticed the passenger side manifold was cracked (same side as all my engine issues). I was told this might mean I have a burnt valve. We took the heads off and the valves and cylinders look good. The comment from my automotive engineer friend was that it looks like the engine was recently rebuilt and looked good. I have the "double hump heads" and screw in rocker arm posts.
We will pull the cam tonight and see what we find. Looks like a top end only rebuild
I'm hoping the stuck lifter caused the cam to go bad and that is the cause of all my issues. Now to find out why the lifter got stuck....
We will pull the cam tonight and see what we find. Looks like a top end only rebuild
I'm hoping the stuck lifter caused the cam to go bad and that is the cause of all my issues. Now to find out why the lifter got stuck....
All those nasty little pieces of metal went into pan and got sucked up by pump and distributed into fun places like bearings and lifters. Take it apart and be careful to use OEM spring Specs . Engine builders like to use big springs to get more revs. It tears up rockers just like you pictured.
06-11-2014, 05:30 PM
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
So the engine was taken to an engine shop today. When we pulled the heads, we learned that no valves were burnt (I had nice sodium filled valves), my block had been bored 30 over, pistons looked good, cam was shot, and crank looked OK but likely needs polishing (standard bearings).
I definitely passed metal through the engine. I am having an experienced shop go through it, clean it completely, and reassemble with the parts needed. I am also adding Selenium seals in the heads as it was recommended to me if I want to run pump gas without a lead additive.
I'll upload pictures in 2 weeks when it's done. She's in the hands of the professionals now.
I definitely passed metal through the engine. I am having an experienced shop go through it, clean it completely, and reassemble with the parts needed. I am also adding Selenium seals in the heads as it was recommended to me if I want to run pump gas without a lead additive.
I'll upload pictures in 2 weeks when it's done. She's in the hands of the professionals now.
06-11-2014, 05:45 PM
#27
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Good decision! Also, I had to do the flat bed tow of shame so I feel for you. I just now got it running and I feel better but still cautiously optimistic.
06-11-2014, 05:50 PM
#28
Race Director
So the engine was taken to an engine shop today. When we pulled the heads, we learned that no valves were burnt (I had nice sodium filled valves), my block had been bored 30 over, pistons looked good, cam was shot, and crank looked OK but likely needs polishing (standard bearings).
I definitely passed metal through the engine. I am having an experienced shop go through it, clean it completely, and reassemble with the parts needed. I am also adding Selenium seals in the heads as it was recommended to me if I want to run pump gas without a lead additive.
I'll upload pictures in 2 weeks when it's done. She's in the hands of the professionals now.
I definitely passed metal through the engine. I am having an experienced shop go through it, clean it completely, and reassemble with the parts needed. I am also adding Selenium seals in the heads as it was recommended to me if I want to run pump gas without a lead additive.
I'll upload pictures in 2 weeks when it's done. She's in the hands of the professionals now.
Larry
06-11-2014, 06:22 PM
#29
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It is hard to tell from the picture, but when I zoom in closely it APPEARS the rocker nuts on #2 & #8 (save for the broken stud) are turned down on the studs much further than #4 & #6. Are you sure the lash was set properly? I haven't had a small block for a long time, but on a 427 set up with good stock parts there would not be that many threads of the stud exposed with a mechanical cam set at proper lash.
It may be just a product of the camera angle, but may be worth looking at closer. Just "looks" wrong to me, but I am not a small block expert.
It may be just a product of the camera angle, but may be worth looking at closer. Just "looks" wrong to me, but I am not a small block expert.
Last edited by SupremeDeluxe; 06-11-2014 at 06:24 PM.
06-11-2014, 11:45 PM
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
It is hard to tell from the picture, but when I zoom in closely it APPEARS the rocker nuts on #2 & #8 (save for the broken stud) are turned down on the studs much further than #4 & #6. Are you sure the lash was set properly? I haven't had a small block for a long time, but on a 427 set up with good stock parts there would not be that many threads of the stud exposed with a mechanical cam set at proper lash.
It may be just a product of the camera angle, but may be worth looking at closer. Just "looks" wrong to me, but I am not a small block expert.
It may be just a product of the camera angle, but may be worth looking at closer. Just "looks" wrong to me, but I am not a small block expert.
I plan on listening to what the old timers tell me at the rebuild shop. I want a little bit of a lob/lope at idle. I'm having them test the springs and make sure they will work with whatever cam they recommend. I will mention that a major concern of mine is coil bind.