327carguy

I have run into what I think may be a problem with the upper outer shaft installation on the reassembly of my frame and suspension.

My right side shaft slips right in place however the left side shaft is extremely snug. I do not believe it could be rotated for alignment with an allen key if installed. How tight should the shaft be? (of course the locking bolt is not installed)

Is the shaft directional? Does the allen end need to be forward or back? Shaft on the opposite side goes in freely.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Pete aka 327carguy

AZDoug

It makes it easier if the allen is in front, but it will work either way.

IIRC, and it has been many years, what makes it hard to install, is if the back nut is snugged up, then putting on the front nut can be difficult, loosening the rear nut, allows the threads front and back to 'mesh" on the shaft eases the installation.

Just snug up both nuts when done.


Note loosening the rear nut means just barely loose, not two turns loose.

Doug

327carguy

I can adjust the nuts fine. What is extremely snug is installing the upper shaft through or into the upper pindel arm. It borders on a press fit. I'm concerned if it is that tight without the locking bolt in place it would be impossible to adjust with an allen wrench or allen socket.

Thanks again Pete

AZDoug

The shaft threads into the nuts (actually bushings).

is the shaft tight in the bushings with the bushings off the control arm?

Do you have your ST-12 open to section 3?

Doug

DZVette

The attached file might be of some help.
DZ

Plasticman

Understand the locking bolt is not in place, so it must be either the spindle shaft bore is on an angle to the upper shaft and bushing axis , or there is a mismatch in diameters. Recommend measuring the shaft dia. and the bore in the spindle (again, without the lock bolt).

Or try putting the shaft through just the spindle bore (move the spindle out of the axis of the upper control arm bushings), and see if it "fits" properly (to help you figure what is going on).

Plasticman

rich5962

I have had similar issues in the past. This method works for me to get proper movement of the pivot pins.

Ref Fig 23 ......Here

It's possible that the bushings are not in alignment in the control arm and therefore the pivot is in a bind causing the issue.

Verify the threads in the control arm are clean. Install the 2 bushings without the pivot pin and tighten securely. Hold 2 small straight-edges, several inches long, on the outer flat faces of the bushings. Measure the widths between them close to the arm, then several inches up.

They should be parallel. If they are not, based on where the difference is, open or close the end of the control arm using a press/C-clamp to close the ends, or 2 long-bar tools(protect the arm threads) to open the ends, until the bushings are parallel.

Rich

327carguy

Here is a photo of the shaft I'm talking about. The first photo is of the upper shaft going through the upper spindle arm. As you can see the locking bolt has not been tightened. In fact the reproduction head correct bolt does not have a shank long enough to not have the threads locking directly on to the shaft. On the opposite side I have replaced the bolt with a grade 8 long shank bolt to avoid the threads locking directly onto the shaft.



There are two additional photos showing the work in progress.






Thanks for the help and suggestions.

Pete aka 327carguy

327carguy

To further clarify: if I install the shaft as a test fit before even trying to install it in the upper control arm the shaft is extremely tight in the upper spindle arm.

Just fitting the shaft to the spindle arm, no other parts involved. it is an extremely tight fit. Slight persuasion is needed to push the shaft into the spindle arm.

My concern is with that much tightness, will I be able to adjust the arm later during alignment?

Opposite side moves freely.

Pete

rich5962

Okay, I thought your issue was the pivot being too tight in the bushings. Ignore my post above.

The grease fitting/access hole for the Allen tool was designed to face rear, so yes it's directional, but interchangeable left to right as the part is identical.

You may just have to clean out the inner surfaces of the spindle which holds the pivot. If burrs from previous clamping are there it could be your clearance issue.

If this is not the case, maybe your part is slightly out of spec in it's diameter. Did you measure each with a caliper?

But all of this may be for naught and it'll be fine. Did you actually try to turn the pivot with your Allen tool as a test? I use a 3/8" drive socket 1/4' Allen for better grip.

327carguy

I can see why I was no help along the way. After looking at fig 23 I had the part names wrong. As my young staff use to say to me, MY BAD. Oh how I hated that.

I'll do some more checking including looking for burrs.

thanks

327carguy

After reviewing Tom Parsons PDF we going to recheck the left spindle arm this weekend. I would prefer to have everything corrected while it is easy to work on.