Help! Spark Plug and wire change
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Help! Spark Plug and wire change
Any help or tips on changing spark plugs and wires on a factory air car? '64 300hp car, have been under car on right side, looks very tight, does anything have to be removed, fuel pump, manifold, splash pan? Maybe a 100lb girl with small arms, I'll be in the garage, thanks.
#2
Race Director
Any help or tips on changing spark plugs and wires on a factory air car? '64 300hp car, have been under car on right side, looks very tight, does anything have to be removed, fuel pump, manifold, splash pan? Maybe a 100lb girl with small arms, I'll be in the garage, thanks.
Left side is a piece of cake. Can be done over the fender as normal.
For the right side, I normally replace the last two plugs from under the car, and for the forward two plugs, I just loosen and roll the AC compressor to get it out of the way. Then do these over the fender. I think you can also do one or both of these from below also………but I have never had the need.
Consider AC 45 or R45S or equivalent plugs. Anything colder, tends to foul quickly.
Although not mandatory, I have always been able to get a torque wrench on ALL of the eight plugs using the above technique. So it can be done.
Larry
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Left side is a piece of cake. Can be done over the fender as normal.
For the right side, I normally replace the last two plugs from under the car, and for the forward two plugs, I just loosen and roll the AC compressor to get it out of the way. Then do these over the fender. I think you can also do one or both of these from below also………but I have never had the need.
Consider AC 45 or R45S or equivalent plugs. Anything colder, tends to foul quickly.
Although not mandatory, I have always been able to get a torque wrench on ALL of the eight plugs using the above technique. So it can be done.
Larry
For the right side, I normally replace the last two plugs from under the car, and for the forward two plugs, I just loosen and roll the AC compressor to get it out of the way. Then do these over the fender. I think you can also do one or both of these from below also………but I have never had the need.
Consider AC 45 or R45S or equivalent plugs. Anything colder, tends to foul quickly.
Although not mandatory, I have always been able to get a torque wrench on ALL of the eight plugs using the above technique. So it can be done.
Larry
Thanks so much, plugs are in. Could not have done it without rotating the ac compressor for sure, and moving a couple hoses off fender well. Plugs were AC43 to cold and fouling, went with Autolite 295 same heat range as the 45's but copper core. Now need all the tricks for running new ignition wire, can this be done with shielding brackets in place, or is it a must to remove it, wonder if removing the boot on distributor end would allow it to be pulled through, any thoughts? Did get a strong piece of twine to go through this channel.
#4
Drifting
The "...shielding brackets..." can stay in place, however you'll need to remove the LH and RH boomerangs to route 1+3 & 2+4 wires. There is a small U-shaped clip on an oil pan screw at the apex of each boomerang that holds these wires. There is also a 2-place loom on each side held in place by the forward heat shield machine screw. You can pass the distributor-end boot of these wires (one at a time) through the motor mount(s) without much trouble.
I've never been able to get a RH boomerang off and change wires without removing -- or at least disconnecting & lowering -- the starter motor. Couple pics follow.
I've never been able to get a RH boomerang off and change wires without removing -- or at least disconnecting & lowering -- the starter motor. Couple pics follow.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
The "...shielding brackets..." can stay in place, however you'll need to remove the LH and RH boomerangs to route 1+3 & 2+4 wires. There is a small U-shaped clip on an oil pan screw at the apex of each boomerang that holds these wires. There is also a 2-place loom on each side held in place by the forward heat shield machine screw. You can pass the distributor-end boot of these wires (one at a time) through the motor mount(s) without much trouble.
I've never been able to get a RH boomerang off and change wires without removing -- or at least disconnecting & lowering -- the starter motor. Couple pics follow.
I've never been able to get a RH boomerang off and change wires without removing -- or at least disconnecting & lowering -- the starter motor. Couple pics follow.