KNIPPS

I have had the 67 out this weekend (just rolled 200 miles) Yesterday I had some issues getting into first at stoplights. Over the last couple weeks of driving it I havent had any issues at all. The motor is new (rebuilt 427), the trans was rebuilt as well. I also noticed grinding when going into reverse as if I didn't have the clutch pushed in all the way despite it being on the floor. I also noticed yesterday after starting the car while it was in gear and clutch to the floor the car began to move. I have scoured the past threads and seen a number of solutions /problems but could only see as my real problem would be the clutch linkage needs to be tweeked a little. So my question I guess is could there be a more "serious issue" and it is common place to have to adjust the linkage like that?? Appreciate your input. Jim

Nowhere Man

did you follow the adjustment process outlined in the service manual

63split63

Keep it simple , adjust the linkage up a little . You probably have too much free play in the pedal .

Bill

Powershift

Not uncommon. As NowhereMan says, use the clutch adjustment procedure in the Chevrolet Service Manual.

You don't want the trans to grind when going into reverse or first, but you also don't want the throwout bearing engaged/rotating when you are driving down the road. On my 1967 327/350 HP car with the factory clutch, I find that there is only a very narrow adjustment range between the two extremes.

Larry

KNIPPS

Adjusted linkage and it seems to shift just fine now. Thanks to thse that replied!!! Is it common to have to adjust the linkage after XXX miles of driving?? Thanks..Jim

PS. On to the next questions....

MikeM

Not unless those were some very hard miles.

If it happens again, take a look at the clutch cross shaft where the upper/lower arms are welded on. It's not uncommon for the arms to split the tube and that lets more free play into the linkage and will finally result in no clutch action at all.

mark6669

Check all of the pivot points: pedal pin & rod, Cross shaft, Lower rod & pin, Clutch fork. Look for elongated holes, Grooves worn in pins and a lose pin in the pedal. A little play in any of these points will affect fork travel. My 66 has 1.5" free play at pedal goes into rev. just great.
Mark

larrywalk

Yes; as the clutch disk wears over time, the freeplay at the pedal will gradually decrease. If freeplay decreases to zero, the throwout bearing will be spinning all the time, increasing the probability of failure; if still unadjusted, the increased contact pressure on the clutch fingers will lessen the force of the pressure plate on the disk and slippage will occur with imminent clutch failure. Just check the freeplay every tune-up and re-adjust as required.

MikeM

Just clarify, the OP used three "XXX's" to indicate the interval in his mileage from when he went from no problem to a problem the way I read it. I assumed that meant the 200 miles he just drove the car.

For me, a clutch adjustment happened at about 50K miles. Your experience may vary.

Tiros

Exactly what happened to me.

Powershift

I have to do adjustments at lesser intervals than 50K………….maybe every 10K miles or so.

In my younger days, clutch wear and adjustment were much more frequent.

If you can get 50K out of a clutch adjustment, you must be driving a 6 cylinder and keeping your speed below 40 MPH.

Larry

Powershift

Mark:

Although you may see 1-1/2 inch free play at the pedal, you may not have that much free play before the throw-out bearing (just) begins to spin on the pressure plate.

With the engine running and in neutral, slowly push in the clutch pedal by hand until you feel the TO bearing starting to rotate. The rotation should be noticeable. Then continue to push down by hand until you get resistance from the pressure plate. You may find that the latter is 1-1/2 inch, but the point where the TO bearing starts to roll is less. This is especially true with the newer diaphragm clutch/pressure plate versus the old style B&B.

FWIW…………Larry