cadillac531

Hello:

I'm presently looking at a '59 Corvette, and am doing research to make sure I know what I'm getting.

Can anyone tell me, besides the VIN plate, is there any other identifiable marks or VIN stamped anywhere on the fiberglass itself?

I know that there have been some replica '58/'59 bodies made before, and would like to make sure I'm not getting a replica body with a genuine VIN plate on it.

The VIN plate is screwed on with two screws. Rosette rivets weren't introduced by '59, were they? Anyone remember when these began to be used?

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

Constantine

vettebuyer6369

There is no VIN stamped into the fiberglass. There is a VIN stamp in the middle of the frame rail on the LH side, but that would not address the possibility of a repro body.

I believe the rosette rivets for VIN plates started in 1965. They were spot welded before that, after the screw attachment format ended. VIN plates were attached in the jamb by 2 Phillips head screws through early 1960 model year cars, approx # 1500 I think.

kcmcrob

Hi, I'm doing a 60 #9654 the VIN plate is welded to the steering column. There are grease pencil marks all over the body. Behind the kick panels on both sides, under the speedometer crown, and on both doors. The panel between the trunk and the gas tank has TURQ (your paint color) written in grease pencil under the paint. Just scratch the paint and the markings will appear.This is no guarantee but if they are there it might help to confirm it's a GM body. The numbers on mine are 176. I thought this might be the julian date it was assembled. Not Sure.
Keith

JohnZ

The "176" is the Body Shop Job Number - it defined the body's sequence in the Body Shop, and is unrelated to the car's VIN, which wasn't known or assigned until the body left the Paint Shop.

kcmcrob

Thanks John, I've been wondering what they meant. I've found 5 markings.

JohnZ

The major panels were identified with that number in the off-line subassembly stations so they got correctly assembled and drilled and matched the option requirements of the body when they all arrived on the main line for final assembly bonding. The numbering sequence went from 1 to 500 and started over again.

kcmcrob

Great info John. Did anything denote hardtop only? My car was Turq/Turq with white insert and hard top only. I redid the hatch before I started looking for the markings. It is a hard top only hatch and the hard top is matching color. Haven't checked it for the 176 number.
Thanks Keith

vettebuyer6369

kcm, you could start your own thread (s) and ask your questions about your car... this is getting away from the member's original topic.

Boyan

OP, I dont mean to sound rude , but if you are unfamiliar on how to tell a GM body vs a reproduction, I suggest you hire a qualified indpector who can explain it for you or join NCRS, attend a couple meets and get familiar with what to look for. I know both these take time but I have seen too many in
hobby get burned.
Boyan

cadillac531

Thank you all for the replies. Much appreciated. So here's the kicker, and many of you may be thinking, what does it matter???

But the body is setting on a tube chassis. It was a race car and then converted to street and I would look to do a street/strip project out of it.

While it would never be a "restored to original vehicle," Corvette parts cost the same whether they are going on an original body or a knock off body. So I want to make sure if I'm going to put money into something, it's at least a REAL Corvette body, not a knock off.

I appreciate all the advice and suggestions. I'll let you know what happens from here.

Thanks.