Boyan

Stand by for smoke coming from rear wheels thread.
OP, please get an experienced person to check out your rear bearings prior to driving it .
You can do severe damage and even shear the spindle off if it gets too hot.
Boyan

curvesman

Yes, Removed the old one and replaced with new, and will have to do it again when I re torque it. The drivers wheel took a few good turns to tighten and the pass wheel only took a little when I did it. did not under stand the Bubba meaning?? Going there today to redo and ask for some help from other people.

Roger Walling

Rear tires wearing out?

Quote,

" just noticed this weekend after car sitting all winter."

Do you have a 16 year old boy and did you leave him home when you went on vacation?

MikeM

If the nuts had keys in them and there was no torque on the nut, everything in that spindle/bearing assy is suspect.

It is possible I guess that the bearing races weren't fully seated on assy and whoever put the spindle together only tightened the nut enough to get the end play out of it then put the key in place. Then, the races could have seated and left you loose.

Being from New York, you're not supposed to know what a Bubba is. That's a southern term.

curvesman

No , My nest is empty now, But I did go away to Florida for 3 weeks and my brother in law watched the house????

All kidding aside I have a problem with the rear bearings I am working on!

curvesman

When we tightened them my friend held the wrench and I turned the wheel because they were tight after i removed the keys.
Today I am going to do it over and use a tauqe wrench.

curvesman

Hopefully when I tauqe them today it will all be ok Ps send Bubba my best!

MikeM

These two statements would seem to contradict each other?

Powershift

I do not believe that you can simply re-torque the main rear spindle nut and be okay. As I stated before, these assemblies are setup with mics and dial indicators to get the necessary 0.001 to 0.003 inch bearing free play (clearances). Once tightened to this bearing clearance, any further tightening will just serve to create problems/issues. This is for the OEM design setup.

If the person who set the rear bearings up previously set them up for a "slip-fit", then that changes how everything is adjusted.

You need to determine what you have, and you need a GOOD mechanic who understands this bearing setup. You may wind up removing the trailing arms and having them re-done by someone who routinely does this work (Gary Ramadei, Bairs, Ikerds, Duntov Motors, VanSteel, etc).

We can try to help, but you may wind up calling and talking to one of these guys about exactly what you found and did, and then see what needs to be done from there. Most of us (self included) send this work out to one of the folks I mentioned above. It can be done at home with the right tools and knowledge, but most of us prefer to let the experts with the tools/knowledge perform this work. They also machine the rotors after the bearing/trailing arm setup to remove any rotor run-out. This is also critical for proper brake operation.

Larry

6T7L71CPE

"I DON'T THINK SO TIM"
To quote Al Borland

I would expect that your car drove squirrelly on heavy acceleration and made strange noises on turns, entering driveways etc.
Do you have sidepipes that may have hidden the noise?
Someone should have pictures of cars that lost a quarter panel due to
a frozen rear bearing. It's ugly and dangerous if you lose control.

vettsplit 63

During all the discussion above, that is what I was wondering.

Powershift

Read OP Posts #22 and 26.

Larry

66since71

Bearing clearances are determined by a shim and spacer that separate the inner bearing races. If those parts are present, the relative tightness of a tight spindle nut has virtually no effect on the bearing set up.

Slip fit bearings change nothing in terms of clearances, or setup. Their downside is increased potential for failure in street service. Upside is ease of maintenance in racing environments.

I'd guess the OP either has failed bearings, or he will find that Bubba removed the spacer and shim.

Harry

DUB

Although you can do this at home it does require some specific equipment...as mentioned before in this post. My concern is also if the spindle itself is bad. I check spindles on my bench center FIRST. Rarely do I get one that is perfect...even though it does occur with new spindles....but normally I can live with one being out .0015"...but rather see it be .001". This measurement will come into play when the rotor is attached and then that run-out will show up big time. And turning the rotor does not good on a spindle that is bent.

Hopefully applying the correct torque will work...and when the run-out is checked...you are fine...but if you plan on breaking the spindle(s) down...it does require some tools for this...and do not just go in and have you and your friend begin beating on the end of the spindle.

Not meaning to throw a bad vibe on this situation...but as many of us know how IMPORTANT this issue is...and if it was not performed correctly...WHAT ELSE can be incorrect. If the car came into my shop...I would have to go over it with a "fine tooth comb"....ONLY BECAUSE this has occurred...and I have had to go back over a car because the people who did the car....just slapped it together.

DUB

MikeM

That'd be my guess also and I agree with the rest of your post.