DansYellow66

That sort of leads to a conclusion that something about the linkage set up was preventing full disengagement of the clutch when the pedal was released. Or back to the coincidence of an old and weakened clutch spring pack or worn thin disc starting to slip at the same time as the bellhousing was replaced.

vettsplit 63

Before you send it off- how does the thickness compare with new?

DUB

I would be looking at the pressure plate being the culprit...especially if the disc looked good.

DUB

Stan's Customs

....in days of old this happened to me on a 55 Chevrolet. Seems like I needed a longer pivot stud than was in the stock bell housing for a Lakewood blowproof.

However that was in the 70's and my memory is fuzzy on what I did for sure, and I had a bunch of Lakewoods back in the 70's..

Good luck...Stan

Procrastination Racing

I've run into this issue before. Not all scattershields are the same depth. Odd, I know, but true unfortunately. Some work with a block plate, others don't, and vice versa.

Also there was a comment on the ball stud inside the scattershield. Often they get welded in place, and frequently they are forgotten/not checked. Chevy made them adjustable so that one size fits all, but obviously, one setting doesn't fit all.You could actually have the throwout bearing riding on the front of the transmission, so that the pressure plate is depressed.

The free play you feel could be the fork moving on the throwout bearing, not the fork/bearing moving on the input shaft.

Simple test. Loosen the transmission and pry it back about a quarter of an inch. Get 12 flat washers for a 1/2 inch bolt. Remove one bolt at a time, slip the washers in place between the transmission and bellhousing, and reinstall that bolt loosely.

When all four bolts have washers, tighten the bolts and take it for a ride. If it still slips, then:

1. Bellhousing is not deep enough or
2. Bellhousing requires block plate or
3. You have the wrong (long) throwout bearing installed or
4. You have the wrong fork installed.


If it doesn't slip, then:

1. Bellhousing isn't deep enough or
2. Bellhousing requires a block plate or
3. You have the wrong (long) throwout bearing installed.


This is just for the test. While if it works it is tempting to leave it, the quarter inch back probably has the input shaft bearing housing out of the hole so there is no alignment of the transmission and will lead to failure in a short time.

Check the throwout bearing length first. It is cheapest and easiest to change and fix.

63Corvette

Um.............Doc, I'm SURE that you're right, BUT you seem to say that REGARDLESS of whether or not it slips, the bellhousing is too short, or you have the wrong parts. Is that what you intended to say?

DansYellow66

Recently, on a Cobra replica with a TKO600 a guy ran into a problem where the front bearing retainer was too long and was actually hitting on the finger of the clutch with the pedal released, preventing the clutch from fully engaging when the pedal was released. I've never read of this with a Muncie transmission but I guess it could be possible if the bellhousing is shallower than the prior one. As suggested by Procrastination Racing, spacing the transmission back slightly with a washer or two will verify if this is or isn't a problem.

TCracingCA

But early on I suggested laying them side by side on a level surface and see what you have. Also the height of the ball stud! Etc. The only way to know for sure.

Thus I sounds like the older one isn't available for whatever reason (sold it or such). Thus what model was it. I have the old 2 piece Lakewood off of the car currently. I can get you that dimension with and without the engine block off plate! If that was the unit that you had!

63Corvette

Nope, we have both bellhousings and will be measuring them. I'll let you know what we find.

Thanks to everyone

Garrett

Procrastination Racing

If the only thing you changed was the bellhousing, then you might get away with different other parts, like a different throwout bearing or a different fork that will work with it.

But if it is the only thing changed, then it has to be the problem.

Oil on disks? I've had them so wet you'd have thought they were a wet clutch. A few spots won't make the difference. A bunch of grease might until it burns off, but you'd have to be pretty sloppy to do that. Intentional would be the word.

TC is possibly on the problem, the stud.

Triple disk? LOL. I had one that was a pure racing one with solid hubs, no damping. Darn thing was an on-off switch. It was OK back when all out mattered, but in vintage? Not at our age.

TCracingCA

Someone else called out the clutch ball stud prior to me, but yes that is important and I like the adjustable Lakewood unit myself!