Suggestions for Stripping the Paint.
#1
Safety Car
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Suggestions for Stripping the Paint.
I now have to strip the paint.
Looking for suggestions on best way to do this.
This is the only paint on the car, as 20 years ago I took it down to the fiberglass through walnut shell blasting.
Pat
Looking for suggestions on best way to do this.
This is the only paint on the car, as 20 years ago I took it down to the fiberglass through walnut shell blasting.
Pat
#2
Le Mans Master
I have not done it but since mine needs paint I have asked a Corvette house near me what they do. They have two guys attack the paint with razor blades. I was told their guys can strip the entire care of all old paint in one day. I would think that would leave lots of low spots that would need filling but that is how they do it.
#3
Race Director
With the car disassembled like you have shown...I would see if media blasting it would work quickly and not damage the fiberglass in the tight spots where the air vortex often times does not strip paint off where you wan it but rather eats away at the fiberglass surrounding it....but that also depends on who is operating the gun at the time.
Depends on how much you want to strip also....and if the paint on it is the current type base/clear...I know some of the clears really put of a fight and do not like to come off...especially if they are applied on thick with a good mil thickness.
Razor blade method will work in removing some of the paint as long as you know how to correctly use one without cutting/nicking the body to death.
DUB
Depends on how much you want to strip also....and if the paint on it is the current type base/clear...I know some of the clears really put of a fight and do not like to come off...especially if they are applied on thick with a good mil thickness.
Razor blade method will work in removing some of the paint as long as you know how to correctly use one without cutting/nicking the body to death.
DUB
#5
Drifting
If the car was stripped properly last time, and the paint on it is solid, I wouldn't even strip it again, myself. I'd do any needed minor bodywork and shoot it. when you had the car up here for the Corvette gathering it sure looked like a quality paint job. is there damaged glass on the car now, since "the incident" or just chips and scratches?
#6
Safety Car
I have not done it but since mine needs paint I have asked a Corvette house near me what they do. They have two guys attack the paint with razor blades. I was told their guys can strip the entire care of all old paint in one day. I would think that would leave lots of low spots that would need filling but that is how they do it.
#7
Drifting
#8
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If the car was stripped properly last time, and the paint on it is solid, I wouldn't even strip it again, myself. I'd do any needed minor bodywork and shoot it. when you had the car up here for the Corvette gathering it sure looked like a quality paint job. is there damaged glass on the car now, since "the incident" or just chips and scratches?
Yea...the paint actually was a really nice and solid job last time.
The damage now is a crack at 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock on the passenger side wheel-well.
Also, there is some separation of the lamination below the front valance area. This appears it was due to being "boon-docked" off road.
The main items are several scratches, gouges, and chips throughout the entire body. None that are too bad, but definitely bad enough to garner new paint.
I'm probably heading towards the direction you suggest.
Thanks,
Pat
And I will definitely have it ready for the next Oregon event in 2015. That was a blast there! Great event!
Last edited by ptjsk; 04-05-2014 at 08:36 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Been using the razor blade now on all the flat spots and it works great as long as you don't let the blade dig into the glass. A forum member posted a video here, I tried it, and haven't looked back. The more paint and primer you can get off the car, the less you need to sand.
I didn't want to use media and paint strippers so I use the blade to remove what I can, and then I sand the rest. Works great!
I didn't want to use media and paint strippers so I use the blade to remove what I can, and then I sand the rest. Works great!
Last edited by Sniper168gr; 04-05-2014 at 10:33 PM.
#10
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Wow Sniper!! That looks great!!
I'll look for that video.
Also......Is it Barns Triple Shock, or Nosler Accubond, Hornady, or ?????
Must be 30 Caliber of some type!
I load the Barns 168 TTSX. Great bullet.
Love the name, Sniper168gr!!
I'll look for that video.
Also......Is it Barns Triple Shock, or Nosler Accubond, Hornady, or ?????
Must be 30 Caliber of some type!
I load the Barns 168 TTSX. Great bullet.
Love the name, Sniper168gr!!
Been using the razor blade now on all the flat spots and it works great as long as you don't let the blade dig into the glass. A forum member posted a video here, I tried it, and haven't looked back. The more paint and primer you can get off the car, the less you need to sand.
I didn't want to use media and paint strippers so I use the blade to remove what I can, and then I sand the rest. Works great!
I didn't want to use media and paint strippers so I use the blade to remove what I can, and then I sand the rest. Works great!
#12
Le Mans Master
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2022 Corvette of the Year Finalist -- Modified
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Please don't use a razor blade on fiber glass. I did my 59 with a razor blade years ago and the paint guy could have killed me due to all the small nicks in the glass. Think about what you're considering doing............................a sharp metal edge against a "relatively" soft surface. I would NEVER use a razor blade again, but good luck with whatever you choose. Nice looking car
#13
Team Owner
#14
Burning Brakes
Sniper round... Sierra Match King 168gr BTHP My favorite!!!
#16
Burning Brakes
Stay away from the edges with the orbital since you can take the nice sharp lines off the body. All curved tight spots (belt line, center ridge, etc.) were done by hand. Also be careful that the orbital doesn't gouge the fiberglass or create ruts. You want to use the flat part of the orbital surface. Most importantly, take your time. I've been working on mine for about 8 weeks now.
Yes I used the razor on the round part of the fenders but followed the curve of the fenders in a downward or upward direction. Not perpendicular to the curved surface. As a previous poster said, you do not want to nick the fiberglass. It's a slow process but am pleased how nice the car is coming. The glass on the 61 has been outstanding.
Surface comes out clean but is rough enough for the primer.
Last edited by Sniper168gr; 04-06-2014 at 01:02 AM.
#17
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Pat - I only use the razor blade to remove the top layer of paint and then sand off the rest with 60 grit dry using a small orbital sander. I then go over the area with 280 grit wet sand paper with lots of water. The water keeps the paint from accumulating on the paper and gumming it up.
Stay away from the edges with the orbital since you can take the nice sharp lines off the body. All curved tight spots (belt line, center ridge, etc.) were done by hand. Also be careful that the orbital doesn't gouge the fiberglass or create ruts. You want to use the flat part of the orbital surface. Most importantly, take your time. I've been working on mine for about 8 weeks now.
Yes I used the razor on the round part of the fenders but followed the curve of the fenders in a downward or upward direction. Not perpendicular to the curved surface. As a previous poster said, you do not want to nick the fiberglass. It's a slow process but am pleased how nice the car is coming. The glass on the 61 has been outstanding.
Surface comes out clean but is rough enough for the primer.
Stay away from the edges with the orbital since you can take the nice sharp lines off the body. All curved tight spots (belt line, center ridge, etc.) were done by hand. Also be careful that the orbital doesn't gouge the fiberglass or create ruts. You want to use the flat part of the orbital surface. Most importantly, take your time. I've been working on mine for about 8 weeks now.
Yes I used the razor on the round part of the fenders but followed the curve of the fenders in a downward or upward direction. Not perpendicular to the curved surface. As a previous poster said, you do not want to nick the fiberglass. It's a slow process but am pleased how nice the car is coming. The glass on the 61 has been outstanding.
Surface comes out clean but is rough enough for the primer.
Thanks again,
Pat
#18
Burning Brakes
#19
Drifting
Russ
#20
Burning Brakes
Pat - How are you making out striping the body?
I'm on the down hill side now of stripping the body of paint. I have the convert top lid (top and underside), the underside of the trunk lid and then all the large panels are done. I will remove the windshield just before it heads out for paint.
Learned a little bit about the cars history by looking at the fiber glass. Seems the car was hit at some point over it's history at the passenger side door. I think the door was replaced since it will need a little fitting. The glass was repaired just behind the door and a little on glass just behind the passenger side rear wheel. Nothing major.
The headlight sockets were a pain! Getting tired of sanding...
I'm on the down hill side now of stripping the body of paint. I have the convert top lid (top and underside), the underside of the trunk lid and then all the large panels are done. I will remove the windshield just before it heads out for paint.
Learned a little bit about the cars history by looking at the fiber glass. Seems the car was hit at some point over it's history at the passenger side door. I think the door was replaced since it will need a little fitting. The glass was repaired just behind the door and a little on glass just behind the passenger side rear wheel. Nothing major.
The headlight sockets were a pain! Getting tired of sanding...