Westlotorn

If I remember correctly you have a high volume pump, the HV pump will cover a loose engine set up. I think you are missing a plug somewhere in the oil gallery or the engine was built with .005 clearance. Maybe the wrong oversize bearings were used. You can use plastigage to measure bearing clearance. Plug location and tips that may help.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...k_plug_basics/

jimh_1962

I already done this before installing the pushrods.

jimh_1962

I have a HV pump on a shelf. Installed is a STD pump (see I am paying attention since before I said low volume ).

I do plan on taking the pan off first and checking to see if I did happen to miss one of the plugs or loose pump. The oil pump pick up was measured and welded into place. I used the other pump position of the pickup as a reference since I did have the correct oil pressure prior to disassembly.

I did measure the clearances with plasticgage during the pre-assembly phase. This weekend, I am going to check the clearances on the crank once more.

jimh_1962

Gotcha!

vettsplit 63

. This thread reminds me of a similar problem a buddy of mine had with his 62 327-300 hp car. No oil to one bank of rockers, but good oil pressure. Wound up being a cigarette filter in thelifter galley. Go figure.

6T7L71CPE

Was the pump disassembled when it was welded? The heat supposedly can ruin the spring if not.

jimh_1962

Yes, I watched the shop reassembly the pump.

jimh_1962

I pressure washed the engine and took gun brushes to all of the galleys. No smoking

pittsaj

Bottom line is......

If you are not getting completly soaked with oil with the engine running and the valve covers off,, You have a probem

GM Engines are well oiled and should shoot oil out the lifters almost over the fender...

If you are running with dry rockers STOP !!! Bottom Galley plug is missing, pump is not pumping or has broken by-pass spring, leaking by-pass valve etc....
Oil is just returning to the pan

That would explain both of your oiling problems

Conditions above would cause

1)
LOW Oil Pressure due to by-pass of the top half of the motor... and the remainder of the bearing clearances before oil is allowed to return to pan

2) Dry Rockers on one or both banks

Im sorry but...
Continuing to try and run with this condition will Kill it

Bite the bullet,
Take it apart and check everything
You will learn a great deal, end the guessing, and get her back on the road...

I can tell you, I have many times pondered how hard it world be to tackle something and found that thinking about it was actually harder than actually doing it

This is all part of the sport.. It's supposed to be FUN

There are a great bunch of guys here that are trying to help

Tony

Scott Marzahl

My guess is bottom plug was punched out for cleaning and not replaced.

jimh_1962

I know no oil is not a good thing. that's why I stopped... I have done enough troubleshooting to know the next step is to pull the pan off and check underneath then go from there.

I really do appreciate the help!

Scott Marzahl

Do you remember if you punched out the plug shown in the figure 12 diagram in this thread, it is under the rear main and is easy to forget to re-install.

http://forums.carcraft.com/70/882039...-oil-pressure/

jimh_1962

The shop who did the machine work installed all new plugs including the cam bearings. The top of the block was plugged off. I know I checked this one. But did not check for the bottom plug. I did check the holes on the cam and bearings when did the pre-assembly. I took a paper clip and ran it into the holes.

jimh_1962

It has the oil plug on the bottom. I have not checked the clearances yet. I did not see any metal flakes in the pan so I guess that's good... I will check the clearances on the main and rods.

Then, I am going to install this HV pump and see what the pressure looks like if the clearances are good. If not then I will pull the engine.

Mr D.

A HV pump on a stock SB chevy is not going to fix your oil pressure problem. A stock GM OEM type pump is all you need and should give you plenty of pressure.

Given everything you have posted my guess is main bearing clearances and most likely you have already wiped the crank.

I hope it's not that bad but 7 PSI on a newly rebuilt engine point to wrong parts being installed.

jimh_1962

I guess that's why I need to get some plastic gauge and check the clearances. How can I tell if I wiped the crank?

Mr D.

The crankshaft journal will show wear and the main bearings will also show wear.

Westlotorn

Plastigage comes in a few sizes, you may need to buy Green SPG-1 which tests .001-.003 and Red SPR-1 which covers .002-.006. Put the plastigage North south across the journal, going from the crankshaft to the front snout. Torque the bearing cap in place with the plastigage at the crown of the cap then remove and measure the width. It is fast and accurate.
Bearings have more clearance as you approach the parting lines, where the bolts are so measure at the crown, farthest from the bolts. The Plastigage package has quick measuring guides included.
Very easy to use. The bearing should be clean and dry when you do this.


I checked and Federal-Mogul still offers a Bearing Pre Lubricator now it is Part # T-40 and only holds 4 qts, the older T-100 held 5 qts.

jimh_1962

I used the green plastic gauge during the first go around. I know I can get both kinds (red and green) and will do so. The bearings were clean when I did this before. Then used Clevite bearing lube during the assembly. Also, I did measure it in the middle of the bearing with the plastic gauge going the same direction.

jimh_1962

No wear on the one I took off. Very light marks on the bearing towards the edges of the bearing. The middle of the bearing still had the original finish.