no start yet 327 rebuilt engine
#41
Team Owner
1) I would pull the Dist and re-prime the oil system. You should see a oil pressure reading on the gauge.
2) If no oil pressure on gauge (and you know the gauge is good) or no oil up to rockers than you won't like step #3
3) Pull engine because something inside is not right. Chevy oil systems are easy to prime if everything is correct.
My dad built a 350 for his S-10 and had oil pressure problems, he could only get 0-10 PSI. Problem ended up being wrong size main bearings installed. He thought his crank was Std but in fact is was .010 undersize. That cost him a new crank and set of bearings.
#42
Burning Brakes
1. Fix the carb issues
2. Start the engine
3A. If after 20/30 sec, no oil pressure stop and start tear down.
3B. If oil pressure adj valves and break in cam.
4. Drive car all summer
2. Start the engine
3A. If after 20/30 sec, no oil pressure stop and start tear down.
3B. If oil pressure adj valves and break in cam.
4. Drive car all summer
#43
Team Owner
Remember what your wife said when we put the engine in the car, are you about ready to take her suggestion...
#44
Le Mans Master
I am paying attention!
Now, I have something to do over the weekend:
Pull the bottom of the pan and check the oil galley plus is installed.
Uninstall the oil pump and check the shaft is okay.
- if I remember correctly you had oil at the rocker arm when you primed it. That tells you the shaft is in place. No need to check this.
If you rotate the oil priming tool you can feel the gears of the oil pump turning or not.
Pulling the intake to inspect the lifters for any signs of damage.
Also going to pull the distributor and check the gear.
- It is possible you have already scratched a lifter with the extensive cranking and no start condition. A new set of 16 lifters is only $50. but your current set might still be fine. What you would look for would be a straight line scratched across the foot of the lifter from the cam hitting it but the lifter not rotating. If it is scratched it will fail shortly after start up. If you do this you may find all OK or only one scratched then you would only need to replace the ones that have scratched. Most shops would not do this, they would fire it up and hope the cam breaks in normally. It probably will 60% of the time even after the extended cranking.
- some engine builders do not install the plugs, if you did the assembly that would be part of the assembler's job. Good idea to call and ask your machine shop what they did to your engine.
Anything else, MikeM, or is that a cluster also? I simply want to take in any advice anyone can offer before I pull the motor out and tearing it down to looking at cam, rod and crank bearing clearances. Or a spun cam bearing. Right now, it is my time so that's all of the cost.
Now, I have something to do over the weekend:
Pull the bottom of the pan and check the oil galley plus is installed.
Uninstall the oil pump and check the shaft is okay.
- if I remember correctly you had oil at the rocker arm when you primed it. That tells you the shaft is in place. No need to check this.
If you rotate the oil priming tool you can feel the gears of the oil pump turning or not.
Pulling the intake to inspect the lifters for any signs of damage.
Also going to pull the distributor and check the gear.
- It is possible you have already scratched a lifter with the extensive cranking and no start condition. A new set of 16 lifters is only $50. but your current set might still be fine. What you would look for would be a straight line scratched across the foot of the lifter from the cam hitting it but the lifter not rotating. If it is scratched it will fail shortly after start up. If you do this you may find all OK or only one scratched then you would only need to replace the ones that have scratched. Most shops would not do this, they would fire it up and hope the cam breaks in normally. It probably will 60% of the time even after the extended cranking.
- some engine builders do not install the plugs, if you did the assembly that would be part of the assembler's job. Good idea to call and ask your machine shop what they did to your engine.
Anything else, MikeM, or is that a cluster also? I simply want to take in any advice anyone can offer before I pull the motor out and tearing it down to looking at cam, rod and crank bearing clearances. Or a spun cam bearing. Right now, it is my time so that's all of the cost.
#48
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I talked to the machine shop. He says he replaced the cam bearings and checked the holes lined up. He suggested I spin off the oil filter and replace the bypass valve then keep it loose until air is out of the system. He thinks it is an air bubble since priming did have oil coming out of the pushrods.
#49
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Anything else, MikeM, or is that a cluster also? I simply want to take in any advice anyone can offer before I pull the motor out and tearing it down to looking at cam, rod and crank bearing clearances. Or a spun cam bearing. Right now, it is my time so that's all of the cost.
I talked to the machine shop. He says he replaced the cam bearings and checked the holes lined up. He suggested I spin off the oil filter and replace the bypass valve then keep it loose until air is out of the system. He thinks it is an air bubble since priming did have oil coming out of the pushrods.
I think your machine shop guy is way off base or just blowing you off by telling you to pull the bypass to relieve an air lock. All that bypass does is bypass the filter when the filter gets plugged.
I would have asked the shop guy why my new engine only had 120# compression in that cylinder?
As previously suggested, I would try to get some experienced help to see what the real problem here is. Tearing back inside the engine doesn't seem to be appropriate here to me 'cause you've already had oil pressure once.
Don't know why your engine is flooding unless the plugs aren't firing (see my first paragraph) or the carb is malfunctioning. You don't say so I have to guess.
PS. I might suggest you go back with the priming tool and verify one more time you can get oil to the rockers using that method. There is always the possibility you have twisted off a oil pump shaft. Not likely, but possible. It's also possible somebody didn't tighten the bolt to the main cap and the pump is loose or fell off in the pan.
Last edited by MikeM; 04-07-2014 at 02:05 PM.
#50
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alright... So what should I read with a dry cold cylinders for compression? I can start there then go with talking to the machine shop.
New rings with a .030 pistons.
New rings with a .030 pistons.
#51
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"IF" you primed that engine with a tool and got oil to the rockers then you will have oil pressure if you crank the engine to start. That is, "IF" the camshaft is actually turning the distributor and the distributor is all the way seated into the intake manifold. That's not hard to check.
I think your machine shop guy is way off base or just blowing you off by telling you to pull the bypass to relieve an air lock. All that bypass does is bypass the filter when the filter gets plugged.
I would have asked the shop guy why my new engine only had 120# compression in that cylinder?
As previously suggested, I would try to get some experienced help to see what the real problem here is. Tearing back inside the engine doesn't seem to be appropriate here to me 'cause you've already had oil pressure once.
Don't know why your engine is flooding unless the plugs aren't firing (see my first paragraph) or the carb is malfunctioning. You don't say so I have to guess.
PS. I might suggest you go back with the priming tool and verify one more time you can get oil to the rockers using that method. There is always the possibility you have twisted off a oil pump shaft. Not likely, but possible. It's also possible somebody didn't tighten the bolt to the main cap and the pump is loose or fell off in the pan.
I think your machine shop guy is way off base or just blowing you off by telling you to pull the bypass to relieve an air lock. All that bypass does is bypass the filter when the filter gets plugged.
I would have asked the shop guy why my new engine only had 120# compression in that cylinder?
As previously suggested, I would try to get some experienced help to see what the real problem here is. Tearing back inside the engine doesn't seem to be appropriate here to me 'cause you've already had oil pressure once.
Don't know why your engine is flooding unless the plugs aren't firing (see my first paragraph) or the carb is malfunctioning. You don't say so I have to guess.
PS. I might suggest you go back with the priming tool and verify one more time you can get oil to the rockers using that method. There is always the possibility you have twisted off a oil pump shaft. Not likely, but possible. It's also possible somebody didn't tighten the bolt to the main cap and the pump is loose or fell off in the pan.
#52
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St. Jude Donor '12
Hmmm that's not good. Well I won't try to be another engineer here but I would do the following;
1) I would pull the Dist and re-prime the oil system. You should see a oil pressure reading on the gauge.
2) If no oil pressure on gauge (and you know the gauge is good) or no oil up to rockers than you won't like step #3
3) Pull engine because something inside is not right. Chevy oil systems are easy to prime if everything is correct.
My dad built a 350 for his S-10 and had oil pressure problems, he could only get 0-10 PSI. Problem ended up being wrong size main bearings installed. He thought his crank was Std but in fact is was .010 undersize. That cost him a new crank and set of bearings.
1) I would pull the Dist and re-prime the oil system. You should see a oil pressure reading on the gauge.
2) If no oil pressure on gauge (and you know the gauge is good) or no oil up to rockers than you won't like step #3
3) Pull engine because something inside is not right. Chevy oil systems are easy to prime if everything is correct.
My dad built a 350 for his S-10 and had oil pressure problems, he could only get 0-10 PSI. Problem ended up being wrong size main bearings installed. He thought his crank was Std but in fact is was .010 undersize. That cost him a new crank and set of bearings.
#53
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I'm also curious about the polished/parkerized cam with the new lifters. But that's another story.
#58
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Update!
I did prime the engine once more. It had below 30lbs oil pressure.
Put back in the distributor and was off by one tooth. Repositioned the distributor wires to test and it fired up with 30lbs of oil pressure. I will need to adjust the distributor over by one position. I need to check the lashing. #7 did not sound right lots of ticking (valve covers were off).
I am going to ask the local speed shop owner to come over and help me get everything dialed in better:
break-in
compression check
set the correct distributor springs
adjust the carb
address any vacuum leaks (if there are any)
check the vacuum
set the timing
I do not have a cut out valve cover to do the lashing while the engine is running. He might have one...
#59
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St. Jude Donor '12
To tell you the truth I did not ask nor did I expect it.
Update!
I did prime the engine once more. It had below 30lbs oil pressure.
Put back in the distributor and was off by one tooth. Repositioned the distributor wires to test and it fired up with 30lbs of oil pressure. I will need to adjust the distributor over by one position. I need to check the lashing. #7 did not sound right lots of ticking (valve covers were off).
I am going to ask the local speed shop owner to come over and help me get everything dialed in better:
break-in
compression check
set the correct distributor springs
adjust the carb
address any vacuum leaks (if there are any)
check the vacuum
set the timing
I do not have a cut out valve cover to do the lashing while the engine is running. He might have one...
Update!
I did prime the engine once more. It had below 30lbs oil pressure.
Put back in the distributor and was off by one tooth. Repositioned the distributor wires to test and it fired up with 30lbs of oil pressure. I will need to adjust the distributor over by one position. I need to check the lashing. #7 did not sound right lots of ticking (valve covers were off).
I am going to ask the local speed shop owner to come over and help me get everything dialed in better:
break-in
compression check
set the correct distributor springs
adjust the carb
address any vacuum leaks (if there are any)
check the vacuum
set the timing
I do not have a cut out valve cover to do the lashing while the engine is running. He might have one...
PULL PAN and see why I only have less than 30 lbs oil pressure, and I am assuming you mean cold at fire up. If your gage is correct, that is gonna be very marginal, in my opinion. What kind of pump do you have on it?
I am still leaning towards wrong main bearings, or a galley plug out.
Last edited by vettsplit 63; 04-09-2014 at 01:57 PM.
#60
Drifting
Probably not your problem but the symptoms were the same. Drove me crazy....had the wrong champ sparkplugs uj12 vs uj12y ..don't recall which was which. I was astounded that a differnt set of plugs fired the motor. Felt as foolish as one can feel.