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Best home 4post lift

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Old 04-20-2014, 01:52 PM
  #61  
MikeM
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Originally Posted by waltonb123
Hey Mike how did you shim the cables 9"? One of my cables was a few inches long so the company to use spacers at the top where the nut goes that allowed me to get it level.
Bob
I used 2" schedule 80 tubing. Welded .75" washers in each end and ran the adjustment bolt through it with another nut and flat washer. To get the slack out, I used two of these on each cable. 12" long on the down cable and 6" on the up cable. Same for the other side. I put the short side up so it wouldn't limit the lifting height of the hoist.

I mocked it up ahead of time using PVC pipe so I made sure I got them the right length. Those lift adjustments seem pretty sensitive cable length that is not just so so.

I don't see any reason a stack of washers wouldn't work for just a couple of inches.
Old 04-21-2014, 05:36 PM
  #62  
wmf62
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Yeah, aint the internet great!

I have a '65 model car that has spent half it's life with the wheels hanging. It's back together with the OEM rubber suspension bushings it was built with and they're still in good shape.

But thanks for the tip.
Mike
i THINK JohnZ was the one who said it, so thank him...
Bill
Old 04-21-2014, 05:48 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by wmf62
Mike
i THINK JohnZ was the one who said it, so thank him...
Bill
So yer a name dropper too?

Everybody has an opinion but I am just reporting on what I've experienced. If you haven't experienced it, you are just left with your opinion aren't you? My opinion either has credibility with you or it doesn't. I don't care.

Old 04-21-2014, 05:53 PM
  #64  
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Since it's been mentioned, what do you think does the most damage to rubbber suspension bushings? The reverse rotation of the suspended suspension or the side loading forces of the weight of the car and the reactive forces the springs put on those bushings when a car sits on all four wheels. I have an opinion based on experience. Do you? My sample size is far too small to come to a credible conclusion though.

Old 04-21-2014, 06:02 PM
  #65  
mrtexas
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Originally Posted by waltonb123
I originally wanted a two post but my ceiling was only 11' and you need 12' to have the clear floor two post. I bought a 4 post and have been able to make it work for all kinds of jobs. It is a little harder to do suspension work but with a couple of different jacks and some stretching across the rails it can be done.
I installed a MaxJax designed for low ceilings in a garage with 9 foot ceilings. It lifts the car about 5 feet maximum. This allows you to work under sitting on a stool. I now have 12 foot ceilings with a benpak 4 post for storage and the MaxJax for working.
Old 04-21-2014, 06:22 PM
  #66  
John McGraw
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Since it's been mentioned, what do you think does the most damage to rubbber suspension bushings? The reverse rotation of the suspended suspension or the side loading forces of the weight of the car and the reactive forces the springs put on those bushings when a car sits on all four wheels. I have an opinion based on experience. Do you? My sample size is far too small to come to a credible conclusion though.

Mike,

I think the logic of the argument is that the bushing should not be twisted to it's far limit for extended periods of time. I think that the concern is that the bond might fail between the bushing sleeve and the rubber if left at this torsional stretch. Same logic that drives the directions included with all rubber bushings, not to torque the retaining bolts on the bushings until the car is sitting at it's ride height. This condition would have the bushing at the opposite direction of torsion.

Can't comment as to whether this argument has any validity, but it sure makes logical sense.

Regards, John McGraw
Old 04-21-2014, 07:57 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
Mike,

I think the logic of the argument is that the bushing should not be twisted to it's far limit for extended periods of time. I think that the concern is that the bond might fail between the bushing sleeve and the rubber if left at this torsional stretch. Same logic that drives the directions included with all rubber bushings, not to torque the retaining bolts on the bushings until the car is sitting at it's ride height. This condition would have the bushing at the opposite direction of torsion.

Can't comment as to whether this argument has any validity, but it sure makes logical sense.

Regards, John McGraw
Thanks, I know what the logic is. I've just never seen anything that shows a negative impact on those same bushings other than somebody's opinon.

There are other forces exerted on those bushings than just torsional twist John. It usually shows up as an egg shaped hole through the bolt hole in the rubber bushing that holds everything together and that has nothing to do with torsion.

The first job I had as a production supervisor in an assembly plant was where the pinion angle was set and it was set with the upper suspension arm tightened in the
"ride height" position for the very reason you mention.

Somebody show me where I'm wrong and I'll go peacefully.

Last edited by MikeM; 04-21-2014 at 08:02 PM.
Old 04-21-2014, 10:52 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Thanks, I know what the logic is. I've just never seen anything that shows a negative impact on those same bushings other than somebody's opinon.

There are other forces exerted on those bushings than just torsional twist John. It usually shows up as an egg shaped hole through the bolt hole in the rubber bushing that holds everything together and that has nothing to do with torsion.

The first job I had as a production supervisor in an assembly plant was where the pinion angle was set and it was set with the upper suspension arm tightened in the
"ride height" position for the very reason you mention.

Somebody show me where I'm wrong and I'll go peacefully.
Well, if we are in agreement that the bushings should only be tightened up when in the "ride" position to minimize stress on the bushings, than It would make sense that to have the bushings twisted in the opposite direction would be just as harmful.


Regards, John McGraw
Old 04-22-2014, 08:03 AM
  #69  
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On my 63 I jacked it up when I first got it and cleaned under front end .The bottom bushing popped out .I assumed they were all bad and changed them all .This poses a good question .I installed the nea pream bushings .This time when I took it in the guy said go with the original <I remember the plastic ones squeaking .
Old 04-22-2014, 03:00 PM
  #70  
JohnZ
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Originally Posted by rtruman
On my 63 I jacked it up when I first got it and cleaned under front end .The bottom bushing popped out .I assumed they were all bad and changed them all .This poses a good question .I installed the nea pream bushings .This time when I took it in the guy said go with the original <I remember the plastic ones squeaking .
I think you meant to say polyurethane bushings, which are fundamentally different than OEM rubber bushings. With OEM rubber bushings, NOTHING moves relative to anything else - the outer sleeve is locked solid in the control arm, and the inner sleeve is locked solid to the shaft when the end bolts are tightened; when the control arm moves up and down, ALL torsional motion occurs within the rubber portion of the bushing, which is bonded to the inside diameter of the outer sleeve and to the outside diameter of the inner sleeve.

The "poly" bushings are VERY different - they're much harder (higher durometer, like a hockey puck), and they move (rotate) within the outer sleeve and around the inner sleeve, which is why they squeak and have so much ride harshness; that's great for autocrossing, but not so much for normal street driving.
Old 04-22-2014, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
I think you meant to say polyurethane bushings, which are fundamentally different than OEM rubber bushings. With OEM rubber bushings, NOTHING moves relative to anything else - the outer sleeve is locked solid in the control arm, and the inner sleeve is locked solid to the shaft when the end bolts are tightened; when the control arm moves up and down, ALL torsional motion occurs within the rubber portion of the bushing, which is bonded to the inside diameter of the outer sleeve and to the outside diameter of the inner sleeve.

The "poly" bushings are VERY different - they're much harder (higher durometer, like a hockey puck), and they move (rotate) within the outer sleeve and around the inner sleeve, which is why they squeak and have so much ride harshness; that's great for autocrossing, but not so much for normal street driving.
Thanks your right couldn't remember could grab the bumper and shake car up and down and hear squeaking I installed them in 1996
and when the guy told me to put stock in I thought maybe recall or something wrong .you don't hear much about them nowadays.
Old 04-22-2014, 08:52 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Four post is perfect if you just want to say you have a "lift".
Well, I'm not quite that narrow-minded. Yes, I use my 4-post lift to change oil, and other maintenance, but I look at it another way. I added another stall to my garage for about $2200. I park the '60 on top and the Monte Carlo underneath. Suits me just fine.
160

Last edited by 1COOL60; 04-22-2014 at 09:05 PM.
Old 04-22-2014, 09:33 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by 1COOL60
Well, I'm not quite that narrow-minded. Yes, I use my 4-post lift to change oil, and other maintenance, but I look at it another way. I added another stall to my garage for about $2200. I park the '60 on top and the Monte Carlo underneath. Suits me just fine.
160
Most of us are older if I was really young making money for every job I was doing brakes ,trans change and the like the 2 post lift would make sense . now looking at the 4 post it make real sense if you can afford to stick another great car under you prized corvette.



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