1960 corvette - lost for the past 40 years
#41
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Norcal CA
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2018 C1 of Year Finalist
I'm a little over $20k in the car, which is a mostly complete, has a solid frame and comes with the original motor. a project like this is pretty hard to place a value on. I put my faith in a friend who has been in the body shop/car business for 50 years. I also spent a month researching the values of recently sold projects and called some corvette professionals about the car. but at the end of the day its still a gamble. at this point we r going to get it running, driving and stopping. at that point I will decide how to proceed. I may drive it green and crusty or I may finish the interior, redo the chrome and paint it.
at this point, I feel good about where we r on this car.
at this point, I feel good about where we r on this car.
Take a close look at the frame and the interior braces. Plus check the glass for any damage. If it was me... The first thing I would do is make sure I have all of the paperwork and the vin matches what is on the frame. From there I would make a list of wants and needs. Make an inventory list and find out what you are going to need to replace.
The windshield frame and posts will come out nice even though these are pitted. Look for a company which can refinish pot metal chrome.
The only reason why I know this is based upon my own experience of doing a frame off restoration. Are you sure the engine is original? It looks like the valve covers have breathers on each one. If that is correct it should have a draft tube or pcv. Then again I am no expert...
Last edited by jimh_1962; 03-05-2014 at 12:43 PM.
#42
Safety Car
I hope I didn't sound disparaging... not my intent.
If you want/always wanted a Vette... and you have a solid foundation, dig in and have fun.
If the point is that this will be an investment that you can make money on... well, that might be tough.
Working on these cars is lots of fun... and if you do a lot of the work yourself, you will know the car intimately, and know exactly what you have for your time and $ investment.
Best of luck... and there is a great crew here to help out if you get stuck. Don't be too shy to ask!
If you want/always wanted a Vette... and you have a solid foundation, dig in and have fun.
If the point is that this will be an investment that you can make money on... well, that might be tough.
Working on these cars is lots of fun... and if you do a lot of the work yourself, you will know the car intimately, and know exactly what you have for your time and $ investment.
Best of luck... and there is a great crew here to help out if you get stuck. Don't be too shy to ask!
#45
Good ol' JC Whitney hood scoop.
I like Cragars, you will probably find that new ones are cheaper than rechrome, but the new ones seem to be universal lug,and i don't care for them as much as dedicated lug circle diameter wheels, which center better.
Yours are probably for single lug diameter
Doug
I like Cragars, you will probably find that new ones are cheaper than rechrome, but the new ones seem to be universal lug,and i don't care for them as much as dedicated lug circle diameter wheels, which center better.
Yours are probably for single lug diameter
Doug
#46
Melting Slicks
You can get a nice 4 bolt new engine for less than the cost of rebuilding the old one. $1500 will get it delivered to your door.
There is a lot of talk about the value of a numbers matching car v/s a car with a few improvements over the original one.
If you bought it to make money, spend about another $35,000 and have a car that you can ask top dollar for. (but don't even think about driving it)
If you bought it to drive it, do what ever you want. When you sell it, depending on what use it will be for, the price will be close to the same. and the cost a lot less.
There is a lot of talk about the value of a numbers matching car v/s a car with a few improvements over the original one.
If you bought it to make money, spend about another $35,000 and have a car that you can ask top dollar for. (but don't even think about driving it)
If you bought it to drive it, do what ever you want. When you sell it, depending on what use it will be for, the price will be close to the same. and the cost a lot less.
#47
Safety Car
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Location: Poway CA
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You can get a nice 4 bolt new engine for less than the cost of rebuilding the old one. $1500 will get it delivered to your door.
There is a lot of talk about the value of a numbers matching car v/s a car with a few improvements over the original one.
If you bought it to make money, spend about another $35,000 and have a car that you can ask top dollar for. (but don't even think about driving it)
If you bought it to drive it, do what ever you want. When you sell it, depending on what use it will be for, the price will be close to the same. and the cost a lot less.
There is a lot of talk about the value of a numbers matching car v/s a car with a few improvements over the original one.
If you bought it to make money, spend about another $35,000 and have a car that you can ask top dollar for. (but don't even think about driving it)
If you bought it to drive it, do what ever you want. When you sell it, depending on what use it will be for, the price will be close to the same. and the cost a lot less.
#48
Intermediate
Thread Starter
You did fine if you spent 20k if the frame and glass is solid plus the inside braces. It depends upon your goal... But you can easily spend more than 30k-40k more on it to go somewhat back to somewhat stock. restomod add a lot more. You can easily place a value on the project... How much are you willing do to yourself? Don't be afraid to do some of the work yourself. You will be surprised on what you can actually do once you start working on some of these items.
Take a close look at the frame and the interior braces. Plus check the glass for any damage. If it was me... The first thing I would do is make sure I have all of the paperwork and the vin matches what is on the frame. From there I would make a list of wants and needs. Make an inventory list and find out what you are going to need to replace.
The windshield frame and posts will come out nice even though these are pitted. Look for a company which can refinish pot metal chrome.
The only reason why I know this is based upon my own experience of doing a frame off restoration. Are you sure the engine is original? It looks like the valve covers have breathers on each one. If that is correct it should have a draft tube or pcv. Then again I am no expert...
Take a close look at the frame and the interior braces. Plus check the glass for any damage. If it was me... The first thing I would do is make sure I have all of the paperwork and the vin matches what is on the frame. From there I would make a list of wants and needs. Make an inventory list and find out what you are going to need to replace.
The windshield frame and posts will come out nice even though these are pitted. Look for a company which can refinish pot metal chrome.
The only reason why I know this is based upon my own experience of doing a frame off restoration. Are you sure the engine is original? It looks like the valve covers have breathers on each one. If that is correct it should have a draft tube or pcv. Then again I am no expert...
what's that song Kermit the Frog sings? "its not easy being green?" Thanks for your thoughts! dave
#49
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I hope I didn't sound disparaging... not my intent.
If you want/always wanted a Vette... and you have a solid foundation, dig in and have fun.
If the point is that this will be an investment that you can make money on... well, that might be tough.
Working on these cars is lots of fun... and if you do a lot of the work yourself, you will know the car intimately, and know exactly what you have for your time and $ investment.
Best of luck... and there is a great crew here to help out if you get stuck. Don't be too shy to ask!
If you want/always wanted a Vette... and you have a solid foundation, dig in and have fun.
If the point is that this will be an investment that you can make money on... well, that might be tough.
Working on these cars is lots of fun... and if you do a lot of the work yourself, you will know the car intimately, and know exactly what you have for your time and $ investment.
Best of luck... and there is a great crew here to help out if you get stuck. Don't be too shy to ask!
many thx,
dave
#50
Intermediate
Thread Starter
You can get a nice 4 bolt new engine for less than the cost of rebuilding the old one. $1500 will get it delivered to your door.
There is a lot of talk about the value of a numbers matching car v/s a car with a few improvements over the original one.
If you bought it to make money, spend about another $35,000 and have a car that you can ask top dollar for. (but don't even think about driving it)
If you bought it to drive it, do what ever you want. When you sell it, depending on what use it will be for, the price will be close to the same. and the cost a lot less.
There is a lot of talk about the value of a numbers matching car v/s a car with a few improvements over the original one.
If you bought it to make money, spend about another $35,000 and have a car that you can ask top dollar for. (but don't even think about driving it)
If you bought it to drive it, do what ever you want. When you sell it, depending on what use it will be for, the price will be close to the same. and the cost a lot less.
dave
#51
Intermediate
Thread Starter
1. If the motor turns over, why don't you try to start it? See what happens. Maybe you don't need to rebuild it right away. Maybe the generator and starter work too.
2. You probably do want to paint it and completely replace the interior. If you do that, then remove the windshield and send the windshield chrome out to be redone with the bumpers and other chrome pieces. You can remove all those items yourself and save on paint prep costs.
3. Replace the windshield glass because you have the windshield assembly out. The glass is probably pitted from age. Zip can put the glass into the re-chromed frame. You can put the assembly back on the car.
4. The time to do the dash pad is when the windshield is out. You can do this.
5. You can replace the interior carpets and door panels. Send the seats out.
6. If you have the interior out, replace the wiring.
7. Remove the passenger side door mirror. It is not original to the car. If you're spending $10K for a paint job, this is your opportunity to fix the holes in the passenger door where the mirror was.
8. You already know about the brakes, fuel tank, and fuel lines. If it were my car, I'd replace the master brake cylinder, wheel cylinders, and lines and switch over to DOT5 (silicone). The gas tank is under $200. Cheap insurance to help keep the car running well.
9. Join your local NCRS chapter. Those guys know all the local resources that could help you get this work done.
Good luck with your car.
2. You probably do want to paint it and completely replace the interior. If you do that, then remove the windshield and send the windshield chrome out to be redone with the bumpers and other chrome pieces. You can remove all those items yourself and save on paint prep costs.
3. Replace the windshield glass because you have the windshield assembly out. The glass is probably pitted from age. Zip can put the glass into the re-chromed frame. You can put the assembly back on the car.
4. The time to do the dash pad is when the windshield is out. You can do this.
5. You can replace the interior carpets and door panels. Send the seats out.
6. If you have the interior out, replace the wiring.
7. Remove the passenger side door mirror. It is not original to the car. If you're spending $10K for a paint job, this is your opportunity to fix the holes in the passenger door where the mirror was.
8. You already know about the brakes, fuel tank, and fuel lines. If it were my car, I'd replace the master brake cylinder, wheel cylinders, and lines and switch over to DOT5 (silicone). The gas tank is under $200. Cheap insurance to help keep the car running well.
9. Join your local NCRS chapter. Those guys know all the local resources that could help you get this work done.
Good luck with your car.
thx,
d-
#52
Safety Car
I think with the original motor, and the drum brakes, you should be just fine. Cruising with kids and ice cream is not going to stress out drum brakes if they are sorted out properly.
#54
Safety Car
I like it GREEN. Concentrate on making it a safe driving Corvette. Then drive it for a year. In Spring of 2015, big $$$$ decisions can be made. A year from now you will have learned lots about CORVETTE , this car and all your new friends.
#56
Burning Brakes
Looks like a fun project! Take your time and enjoy the restoration process. Anything you'll ever need to know about your car can be found here. Good luck with it!
#57
Melting Slicks
What you might want to spend your effort on is the master cylinder, the lines, the wheel cylinders, and the parking (emergency) brake. Your car is a single line system. If you get a leak, you lose your brakes. I'd make sure that part of your system is up to snuff. That part of the system will be needed whether you have drums or discs. If that part of the system is old, you may consider replacing all of it. The parts are not that expensive, and it buys you peace of mind. If you replace everything, you might consider converting to DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid. See the archives for lots of discussion on that. ("Tastes great. Less filling.")
You're right about modern paint. Modern paint is so much better than lacquer. If NCRS judging becomes important to you in the future, there's ways to mitigate the points hit.
I'd hold off on the killer sound system. Again, you can always install that later. I find I don't much listen to a stereo when I drive my car.
If it were my car, I'd get it running safely and reliably and then just drive it and enjoy it for a while. Most guys find that what they want to do with their cars changes over time. That's a good thing. It's your car. You should restore it in such a way that suits you.
#58
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: Middletown Ohio
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I had my 327 rebuilt which required boring, polish the crank, new 10:1 pistons, a new L79 cam , freshen the heads, all for $1400.
This was done by a reputable machine shop/engine builder in Middletown, Ohio. A great deal 2 years ago.
#59
Melting Slicks
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I'd stick with the drums. If the drum system on your car is working properly, and you stomp on the brake pedal, the 4 wheels will lock up. You can't ask it to do more than that. What discs get you is that if you have to do that many times in a row, such as in a race, the drums will fade, but the discs fade much later. That's important in a race and perhaps in the mountains. But not so much on the street. Disc brakes don't stop better than drums. They just can do it more often. I'd get the system up to snuff and drive the car. If after driving it for a while you feel the need to convert to discs, then do it. It's a reversible modification.
What you might want to spend your effort on is the master cylinder, the lines, the wheel cylinders, and the parking (emergency) brake. Your car is a single line system. If you get a leak, you lose your brakes. I'd make sure that part of your system is up to snuff. That part of the system will be needed whether you have drums or discs. If that part of the system is old, you may consider replacing all of it. The parts are not that expensive, and it buys you peace of mind. If you replace everything, you might consider converting to DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid. See the archives for lots of discussion on that. ("Tastes great. Less filling.")
You're right about modern paint. Modern paint is so much better than lacquer. If NCRS judging becomes important to you in the future, there's ways to mitigate the points hit.
I'd hold off on the killer sound system. Again, you can always install that later. I find I don't much listen to a stereo when I drive my car.
If it were my car, I'd get it running safely and reliably and then just drive it and enjoy it for a while. Most guys find that what they want to do with their cars changes over time. That's a good thing. It's your car. You should restore it in such a way that suits you.
What you might want to spend your effort on is the master cylinder, the lines, the wheel cylinders, and the parking (emergency) brake. Your car is a single line system. If you get a leak, you lose your brakes. I'd make sure that part of your system is up to snuff. That part of the system will be needed whether you have drums or discs. If that part of the system is old, you may consider replacing all of it. The parts are not that expensive, and it buys you peace of mind. If you replace everything, you might consider converting to DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid. See the archives for lots of discussion on that. ("Tastes great. Less filling.")
You're right about modern paint. Modern paint is so much better than lacquer. If NCRS judging becomes important to you in the future, there's ways to mitigate the points hit.
I'd hold off on the killer sound system. Again, you can always install that later. I find I don't much listen to a stereo when I drive my car.
If it were my car, I'd get it running safely and reliably and then just drive it and enjoy it for a while. Most guys find that what they want to do with their cars changes over time. That's a good thing. It's your car. You should restore it in such a way that suits you.
Original drum brakes are fine.
The brake failure scenario is accurate although all my old Corvettes are that way. But the 57 Gasser I'm building uses a dual master cylinder.
I just saw that Speedway Motors now sells a dual master cylinder that resembles a original Delco master cylinder, pretty cool.
Also, DOT 5 is the only way to go, works fine doesn't attract moisture and won't hurt paint.
The best sound system is the sound from the engine, no high power stereo for me.
My good 57 fuel car is painted base/clear and with some minor shrinkage over the past 3 years the paint would probably pass NCRS judging.
Bruce B
Last edited by ohiovet; 03-08-2014 at 10:51 AM. Reason: comments
#60
Intermediate
Thread Starter