Chalie M

My first c2 and i need some O.E. shifter help. Shifts fine but will not go into reverse unless I have shifter **** back off a couple of turns from full tightening of round chrome ****. I took the chrome **** off, spring and chrome T and I found 1 plastic bushing, should their be 1 or 2 bushings in the shifter?
Thanks
Chalie M

66jack

2...two...dose...

Vet65te

CHalie - hopefully the shifter bushings available from the vendors is more correct than in the past because the old ones were thicker and would not work right. If you have one bushing in there it should still function correctly, maybe time to pull the shifter out and look it over.
Mike T.

65GGvert

If it goes into reverse when you loosen the ball, you don't need to take the shifter out. You need to figure why the reverse lockout isn't lifting the rod high enough to clear the reverse gate. Either the rod is too long, or it isn't lifting high enough due to hitting something at the top under the shift ****. The **** and reverse lockout rod handle are where you need to focus.
Take the spring out and see if it shifts into reverse correctly. If so the spring could be too long and not compressing enough, or too big around to go up into the **** and allow the handle to lift far enough.

MikeM

Chalie M

Thanks for all your input guys, so we agree there should be 2 bushings in there and not 1. I'll look into the rod, spring & ****.
Thanks again for all your help....

65GGvert

The bushings go below the handle, so they won't cause your problem.

Chalie M

O.K. yes, I see where one bushing was inside underneath the chrome T, I took some measurements of the parts I'm wondering if other year C2's are different and parts may not be for a 65.
Here are the measurements:
- overall spring length is 2-3/4"
- spring width is 3/4"
- with spring seated and sitting not compressed in bottom of shifter ball remaining of spring extending out of ball is 1-1/16"
- lock out rod length measured from bottom of rod to botttom of chrome T is 5-1/4"
- overall chrome T handle length is 2-5/16"
- with ball, spring, T handle removed from shifter threaded/slotted stem measured 3-7/8" this was taken from very top of threaed/slotted stem going down towards a step on the stem.
again shifts great in all gears except no reverse until I unscrew chrome **** from fully tight to approx 2 turns or so then reverse is smooth as butter ? i'm tempted to grind lock out rod some but I know thats more of a bubba quick fix, and i'm not getting to the root cause? thanks again for all help/input....

MikeM

Is the top of your lock rod grounding out on the ball?

The early T handles had a set screw to adjust the height the rod was pulled upward to disengage the lockout. Later handles eliminated the set screw and the top of the rod was just simply mashed at the top of the T handle to hold the adjustment.

You shouldn't feel any play in the T handle/rod when you start to raise it. If you have play or too much of it, you can ground the top of the rod out in the underside of the cap.

If you happen to have one of the first design shifters that used a cable instead of a rigid rod, it should be adjusted with the accompanying set screw.

Chalie M

Just installed (man that garage is cold here in philly) all parts back onto shifter stem, no play in chrome T when I start to lift it just springy no play at all, must be later design no set screw or other, I'm wondering if ball was threaded to far down and is going to far down onto stem and not getting all the lift up from chrome T ?
I was just searching Paragon Corvettes web site and they advertise a chrome T handle with a 7-1/2" reverse rod, I just measured mine & it measures 7-9/16" may be just what I need.
I need to order the plastic bushings for the shifter (mine currently has only one in it) and I'm going to order the chrome T handle also.
Thanks again guys for all input I'll let u know how i make out.

66since71

Return spring for the T handle is binding before the pin is pulled clear. I'd suspect the spring. Also confirm that you have the OEM shift ****. It should have an undercut to clear the return spring. 1/16" of pin length is not your problem. Shortening the pin will just mask the real problem.

Harry

65GGVert outlined a great trouble shooting guide! (edit)

Gary's '66

The after market bushings don't fit well at all. There're too thick. I found some NOS bushings on eBay that were correct. Don't waste your time/$ buying after market bushings. Gary

MikeM

I have a new GM 3889461 rod in my hand. It measures 7 1/2"long.

As a shade tree fix you could just shorten up the bottom end of the rod so it would clear on the linkage and let you in the reverse gate. Your REAL problem could be the binding spring or the wrong **** but if shortening the end of the rod works........................

Timz06

My reverse lockout pin broke and I got a new one. The new one has the problem you describe, I guess it is too long. Maybe someone changed yours out as well?

I'm just going to grind mine down until it works correctly.

Tim

66since71

Have you removed the spring altogether, reassembled the shifter without it, and tried it?

Harry

MikeM

If the replacement rods are longer on the major diameter and the rod is all the way up before being crimped at the top, grinding/shortening the end of the rod may be the correct fix for a bad part.

Chalie M

Football is over so I'm back in the garage, took spring out like some of you guys suggested, shifter goes into reverse with no problem, checked shifter ball it has a recess area for spring to sit in and I don't feel any binding with the spring installed ? going to order a new spring and see what happens ?
Thanks again for all you who answered, I'll keep you posted

65GGvert

In your situation here's what I would do. If when you loosen the ball it goes into reverse as you say, then I'd try without lifting the handle. If it is locked out as it should be, I'd "fix the rod by grinding off a little at the bottom until it cleared with the ball all the way down and didn't when released. Go a little at a time until it works. It's free and you get sense of accomplishment of fixing it yourself. Shortening the rod tip by 1/16th" sounds like a plan.

66since71

Great... Now you know it's the spring, not the rod or pin! The individual coils may be collapsing on themselves before the "T" reaches full travel. Or, it maybe binding on the OD of the shift lever or the ID of the ****. I suspect in any case that it's not the OE spring.

Bottom line.. Before buying a new spring, try cutting a winding or two off the spring with diagonal cutters.

Harry

MikeM

No, he doesn't know it's the spring. If the bottom end of the rod is too long, even the OEM spring may be coil binding before the tip of the rod clears the lockout gate.

If he cuts coils on the spring, it may allow him to get into reverse but it may also release tension on the T handle in a forward gear and be a source of a rattle! I believe if he can unscrew the **** a couple turns and get it into reverse and STILL HAVE SPRING TENSION ON THE T HANDLE, he would be safe in cutting a few coils rather than grinding the bottom of the lockout rod.