336 or 355
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336 or 355
anyone running a 355 or 336 gear with a M21 closeratio 4 speed. I now have a 411 but is too low for any distance, would like to change without losing all of my torque, Thanks, Jackie
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#3
Could you post the gear ratios for the tranny? I just put in a zz4 with a TKO 500 and I have a 3.36 in my 66. I dont have the seat of the pants acceleration I am looking for. I am leaning towards changing to a 3.70 or 4.11. I think with the overdrive I get around the high RPM's In 4th. the more real life expirences with 3.70's or 4.11's, the easier the choice becomes. currently there are a bunch of threads going on right now concerning rear end ratios - some wanting more pop and others not liking highs revs at highway speeds. doesnt seem like it should be so tough with an overdrive - yet there are a lot of people looking for an answer
#4
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2.20 1st gear
1.64 2nd gear
1.28 3rd gear
1.00 4th gear
You can change it to an M-20 wide ratio: 2.52.; 1.88.; 1.46; 1.00 just by changing the main drive gear and the countergear.
1.64 2nd gear
1.28 3rd gear
1.00 4th gear
You can change it to an M-20 wide ratio: 2.52.; 1.88.; 1.46; 1.00 just by changing the main drive gear and the countergear.
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You wouldn't like the 3.55 with that 2.20:1 low gear, and the 3.36 even less; if you had an M20, it works fine with a 3.36. There's no free lunch with 1st gear ratios and axle ratios - they either work together or they don't. If you want a highway traveling setup and good low-end torque, you need an overdrive transmission.
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The change muffled what had been explosive acceleration. Even so, I'm well pleased with the end result.
Jim
Last edited by jim lockwood; 11-18-2013 at 03:41 PM.
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I swapped out the original 4.11's in my 63 about 6 years ago when I was living in Maryland. Put in a 3.55 pumpkin......... I did it to cut down on RPM's at highway speeds.
Changed the whole character of the car for the worse.
After I moved to Florida, I swapped again and put the original 4.11's back in.
I did not like the 3.55's in my car. Tough to accelerate from stop lights, had to feather the clutch, etc.
Now, I have my "old" car back with the 4.11's.
Chuck
Changed the whole character of the car for the worse.
After I moved to Florida, I swapped again and put the original 4.11's back in.
I did not like the 3.55's in my car. Tough to accelerate from stop lights, had to feather the clutch, etc.
Now, I have my "old" car back with the 4.11's.
Chuck
#9
Burning Brakes
John Z is correct.
My car had the 4.11 rear end. I wanted to change for the same reasons as you. I quickly found out that I needed to change my M-20 from a close ratio to wide.
Yes, it is probably not as exciting to drive from a performance standpoint but I'm happy now to be able to drive the thing around and cruise.
My car had the 4.11 rear end. I wanted to change for the same reasons as you. I quickly found out that I needed to change my M-20 from a close ratio to wide.
Yes, it is probably not as exciting to drive from a performance standpoint but I'm happy now to be able to drive the thing around and cruise.
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It is NOT unique to this forum. I never understand people who ask a legitimate question----------------------------------and then disappear!
Oh well--------------
This question, or frequently very similar type questions (engine/gearing combinations) often arise. And there are as many opinions as there are combinations.
I would truly prefer a 4.11 or 4.56 for fun to drive reasons. But with the abundance of Interstate hiways (I clearly remember when there was no such word as Interstate, and only a FEW turnpikes), as well as the price of gas, a high gear rear (or at least an overdrive) seems to be the best solution. But with a high gear rear, you need a healthy torque motor, or a tranny with a very low 1st gear. Big blocks make great torque motors, but I don't like the added frontend weight.
For me personally, the solution for torque is a BIG inch SB (383 at the very least) with very good flowing heads (alum is a plus for cutting weight) and an aggressive cam (hyd roller if it will fit into the budget). With a well built big inch SB which saves weight and produces plenty of torque, a wide ratio 4sp and a 3.08 rear makes a great combination. With that kind of combination, VERY MINIMAL clutch feathering is necessary (actually, almost none). The car still may not be a rocket from a dead stop, but once the rpm is above 1000-1200, you can be at 60-70mph with 1st gear in no time. Power shift to 2nd and you're suddenly looking at 100mph----------------------and only in 2nd gear!!!!! And yes, my 56 with a SB400 will do that.
Oh well--------------
This question, or frequently very similar type questions (engine/gearing combinations) often arise. And there are as many opinions as there are combinations.
I would truly prefer a 4.11 or 4.56 for fun to drive reasons. But with the abundance of Interstate hiways (I clearly remember when there was no such word as Interstate, and only a FEW turnpikes), as well as the price of gas, a high gear rear (or at least an overdrive) seems to be the best solution. But with a high gear rear, you need a healthy torque motor, or a tranny with a very low 1st gear. Big blocks make great torque motors, but I don't like the added frontend weight.
For me personally, the solution for torque is a BIG inch SB (383 at the very least) with very good flowing heads (alum is a plus for cutting weight) and an aggressive cam (hyd roller if it will fit into the budget). With a well built big inch SB which saves weight and produces plenty of torque, a wide ratio 4sp and a 3.08 rear makes a great combination. With that kind of combination, VERY MINIMAL clutch feathering is necessary (actually, almost none). The car still may not be a rocket from a dead stop, but once the rpm is above 1000-1200, you can be at 60-70mph with 1st gear in no time. Power shift to 2nd and you're suddenly looking at 100mph----------------------and only in 2nd gear!!!!! And yes, my 56 with a SB400 will do that.
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My 383 has pro-filer alumn heads with 208 valves, 577 hyd roller cam, dynod at 535 Hp, should have enough TQ. I was just asking the question about a 355 because i'm turning way to many rpms at 70 mph with the combo I have. I would like to drive it out of the city limits. the only way for any period would be to drive about 55
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My 383 has pro-filer alumn heads with 208 valves, 577 hyd roller cam, dynod at 535 Hp, should have enough TQ. I was just asking the question about a 355 because i'm turning way to many rpms at 70 mph with the combo I have. I would like to drive it out of the city limits. the only way for any period would be to drive about 55
M20/3.08 rear, or, leave the 4.11 in it and install a 5spOD.