Pro-Tour 63 Split Window Coupe Project........."PUNISHER"
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
Are you having SRiii build your suspension or are you buying the frame and installing your own control arms?
I wonder if you could run the exhaust above the differential if you raised the floor on a coupe?
#23
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Canada's capital
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I'm not a purist by any means, but that car looked like a pretty good candidate for restoration to me. Did you expressly want a split window? What engine was in it?
That being said I'm looking forward to the build progress. I hope your camera is always handy!
That being said I'm looking forward to the build progress. I hope your camera is always handy!
#24
Instructor
I am having them build just the frame. I purchased c5 front and rear suspension from vette nuts in TN for $950.00 and purchased a new gen 3 viper rear off eBay for a grand. I was considering a 9" IRS diff from Dutchman ( the housing without chunk is $1250.00) after seeing one in the Ringbrothers mustang at SEMA when I found the viper diff on eBay. I am having the driveshaft shop make the axles. I want to machine the rear cover support just for the fun of it. I am going to use 14" front/13" rear rotors and calipers off C6z06/zr1
I'm having to piece mine together to afford it.
I'm having to piece mine together to afford it.
#26
Enjoy while you can.
Member Since: May 2008
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2023 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I wish someone doing a resto mod like you lived nearby, so I could stop by and watch and learn. Something went wrong in my youth, I was never exposed to even the basic stuff. I am in for the ride as well.
#28
Drifting
I sent Mike a check for the frame without making any final decisions. I am doing C6 and will probably do the Viper rear as well. I really liked the quick change rear end but as was pointed out it makes the exhaust difficult to run to the back. I am not doing side pipes so I need a clear passage.
Are you having SRiii build your suspension or are you buying the frame and installing your own control arms?
I wonder if you could run the exhaust above the differential if you raised the floor on a coupe?
Are you having SRiii build your suspension or are you buying the frame and installing your own control arms?
I wonder if you could run the exhaust above the differential if you raised the floor on a coupe?
The Viper rear is nothing more than a Super Dana 44. For the money, go with the Currie 9", that is what I am using on my 65 Coupe project with SRIII chassis. I used the Super Dana 44 on my last car and it worked fine but required a lot of high end parts, cryo-ing and some praying when drag racing it to make it survive with 600 RWHP. The Dana 44 is a 30 spline diff, the Currie IRS is a 35 spline...not hard to figure that one out. The 9" is far superior and parts are way cheaper. If your using C6 rear suspension you can run the 2009 + Z06 / ZR-1 SKF hub bearing with 33 splines to keep it tough. Send me a PM if you have any questions.
R/
Jeff
Last edited by 1coolC2; 11-17-2013 at 07:13 PM. Reason: added pics
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=1coolC2;1585452899]The Viper rear is nothing more than a Super Dana 44. For the money, go with the Currie 9", that is what I am using on my 65 Coupe project with SRIII chassis. I used the Super Dana 44 on my last car and it worked fine but required a lot of high end parts, cryo-ing and some praying when drag racing it to make it survive with 600 RWHP. The Dana 44 is a 30 spline diff, the Currie IRS is a 35 spline...not hard to figure that one out. The 9" is far superior and parts are way cheaper. If your using C6 rear suspension you can run the 2009 + Z06 / ZR-1 SKF hub bearing with 33 splines to keep it tough. Send me a PM if you have any questions.
R/
Jeff
Jeff, could those be the latest spy photos of your project Man, I could start charging for people to look at those because we all want to know what you are doing!! I am saving up my questions because I am calling you! Thanks for the info on the rear end! Are those wheel tubs from Mike?
R/
Jeff
Jeff, could those be the latest spy photos of your project Man, I could start charging for people to look at those because we all want to know what you are doing!! I am saving up my questions because I am calling you! Thanks for the info on the rear end! Are those wheel tubs from Mike?
#30
Pro
Thread Starter
thank you!
Looks like you are in Ohio and I know being from the midwest the Corvettes are big up there and I am sure you could check in on someone. These cars are a tremendous amount of time and effort and require skill. Maybe safer to watch for now. Who knows, maybe you will do your own project someday.
Your machine work is awesome and I hope anyone checking out my thread is already subscribed to yours. You really have an awesome project and I am glad you went with the SRii frame. We fell short of a custom frame on my first project and although it came out awesome the custom frame would have put it over the top. The big Corvette brakes are great for these projects. I am drooling over the 15" Baer brakes but they are expensive.
Yes I was looking for a split window coupe. I wanted to do a coupe and I figured it couldn't get any better than doing it on a split window. My 53 has a small block, turbo glide, power windows, locks, and brakes. Good color as it was white with saddle tan interior. It would be a pretty car to restore but not financially as the purchase and built cost would exceed the final value of the car. Yes I will be taking plenty of pictures because all the guys on here keep projects like mine going in the right direction. Its not what you know its who you know
Good advice again!
Good advice again!
#31
Drifting
[QUOTE=toocrazy;1585453992]
Mark,
Ha ha, no...those photos are probably a year old, back when I actually was making some progress but don't give away any secrets
Those tubs are from Mike and I think they will work out fine. I am holding off on building the rear floor in mine as I am still working out some details. Your project looks great!! Don't freak out about engine selection. My advice is to stay away from the "conveyer belt" build guys and stick with guys that build engines that demonstrate performance and durability. Many of the ones listed in previous posts, I personally would not touch. Ive watched plenty of these so called "built" engines smoke and whees themselves to their final death moan of the last few years. Many of them outlived by GMPP crate engines!! The LS7 is a rock solid engine, they had a small issue with the needle bearings in the rockers in 2007 but otherwise a pretty tough piece stock. Lots of talk about the valves, but I think a lot of it is just panic over a few cases. I ran the poo outta mine and never had to do anything but change the oil and it was making 700hp at the crank As mentioned in a previous post, the stroked LS3 is by far the best value for big power, I'm actually using one in my Nova. It's a Katech 7.0 version with all forged internals and CNC ported heads…I'll let ya know what I think of it when we get her up and running.
As far as intakes go, most aftermarket LS engine intakes give minimal return for the money unless your cammed and have a good tuner. Most sheet metal versions like the Hogan have shown a loss in both HP and Trq The Harrop hurricane ITB is a bad azz piece and delivers excellent performance and drivability. I had great success with my Marcella sheet metal intake, John is a master...but not cheap. Based on your previous rides, this new project should be really cool!!
R/
Jeff
The Viper rear is nothing more than a Super Dana 44. For the money, go with the Currie 9", that is what I am using on my 65 Coupe project with SRIII chassis. I used the Super Dana 44 on my last car and it worked fine but required a lot of high end parts, cryo-ing and some praying when drag racing it to make it survive with 600 RWHP. The Dana 44 is a 30 spline diff, the Currie IRS is a 35 spline...not hard to figure that one out. The 9" is far superior and parts are way cheaper. If your using C6 rear suspension you can run the 2009 + Z06 / ZR-1 SKF hub bearing with 33 splines to keep it tough. Send me a PM if you have any questions.
R/
Jeff
Jeff, could those be the latest spy photos of your project Man, I could start charging for people to look at those because we all want to know what you are doing!! I am saving up my questions because I am calling you! Thanks for the info on the rear end! Are those wheel tubs from Mike?
R/
Jeff
Jeff, could those be the latest spy photos of your project Man, I could start charging for people to look at those because we all want to know what you are doing!! I am saving up my questions because I am calling you! Thanks for the info on the rear end! Are those wheel tubs from Mike?
Ha ha, no...those photos are probably a year old, back when I actually was making some progress but don't give away any secrets
Those tubs are from Mike and I think they will work out fine. I am holding off on building the rear floor in mine as I am still working out some details. Your project looks great!! Don't freak out about engine selection. My advice is to stay away from the "conveyer belt" build guys and stick with guys that build engines that demonstrate performance and durability. Many of the ones listed in previous posts, I personally would not touch. Ive watched plenty of these so called "built" engines smoke and whees themselves to their final death moan of the last few years. Many of them outlived by GMPP crate engines!! The LS7 is a rock solid engine, they had a small issue with the needle bearings in the rockers in 2007 but otherwise a pretty tough piece stock. Lots of talk about the valves, but I think a lot of it is just panic over a few cases. I ran the poo outta mine and never had to do anything but change the oil and it was making 700hp at the crank As mentioned in a previous post, the stroked LS3 is by far the best value for big power, I'm actually using one in my Nova. It's a Katech 7.0 version with all forged internals and CNC ported heads…I'll let ya know what I think of it when we get her up and running.
As far as intakes go, most aftermarket LS engine intakes give minimal return for the money unless your cammed and have a good tuner. Most sheet metal versions like the Hogan have shown a loss in both HP and Trq The Harrop hurricane ITB is a bad azz piece and delivers excellent performance and drivability. I had great success with my Marcella sheet metal intake, John is a master...but not cheap. Based on your previous rides, this new project should be really cool!!
R/
Jeff
#32
Are you going to tub the rear wheels or flare? For wide wheels, you have to do one or the other. Flaring is the least convenient and most expensive. Wheel tubs allow for the use of of C6 ZR1 wheels. The ZR1 type of wheels are also cheaper than custom offset wheels for flares.
A mild hp engine would allow for 10" wheels with no tubs or flares. The CTS-V with 570hp has 10" wheels and seems to do fine.
If your not going to tub the car, I would suggest considering 18" wheels and tires, versus the 20"/19" C6 combo. The C6 combo looks great when it is done perfectly. When it is not, there is too much rim and not enough tire showing. Just trying to be helpful!
A mild hp engine would allow for 10" wheels with no tubs or flares. The CTS-V with 570hp has 10" wheels and seems to do fine.
If your not going to tub the car, I would suggest considering 18" wheels and tires, versus the 20"/19" C6 combo. The C6 combo looks great when it is done perfectly. When it is not, there is too much rim and not enough tire showing. Just trying to be helpful!
#33
Drifting
The 409 is awesome and the work on that T-stat housing is just incredible
R/
Jeff
#34
Pro
Thread Starter
Are you going to tub the rear wheels or flare? For wide wheels, you have to do one or the other. Flaring is the least cosus the 20"/19" C6 combo. The C6 combo looks great when it is done perfectly. When it is not, there is too much rim and not enough tire showing. Just trying to be helpful!
[QUOTE=1coolC2;1585454365]
Mark,
Ha ha, no...those photos are probably a year old, back when I actually was making some progress but don't give away any secrets
Those tubs are from Mike and I think they will work out fine. I am holding off on building the rear floor in mine as I am still working out some details. Your project looks great!! Don't freak out about engine selection. My advice is to stay away from the "conveyer belt" build guys and stick with guys that build engines that demonstrate performance and durability. Many of the ones listed in previous posts, I personally would not touch.
As far as intakes go, most aftermarket LS engine intakes give minimal return for the money unless your cammed and have a good tuner. Most sheet metal versions like the Hogan have shown a loss in both HP and Trq The Harrop hurricane ITB is a bad azz piece and delivers excellent performance and drivability. I had great success with my Marcella sheet metal intake, John is a master...but not cheap. Based on your previous rides, this new project should be really cool!!
R/
Jeff
#36
Drifting
Holy mother of you know who that is one beautiful motor. Thats what I am talking about. I am like a chic buying shoes when I pick out a motor........I want one that is pretty. Funny you mentioned the Harrop because I have a picture of the Harrop Hurricane taped up in the shop. I would love to have one. I know you are the king of motors and thought you would help me design one......seriously.
Happy to help you out if I can. That is the LS7 in my last C2, it was an absolute beast and retained excellent street manners.
KC John,
That engine as seen would cost approximately 20-22K including the accessories. Add another $2,500 for computer and dry sump. This engine produced 602 RWHP and 530 RWTQ. Best part was that made sick power at low rpm and easily spun to 7400 rpm still pulling it put my car in the 10.7's @ 134 mph......on street tires!
R/
Jeff
#37
Safety Car
The floor pan kit from Mike/SRIII works great and simplifies things quite a bit. It takes about an hour to remove the old floor, wheel wells, and jack well, and about 2-3 hours to fit and bond the new panels in place.
Obviously you must remove the rear floor for it to even be possible to run the C5/C6 suspension SRIII Frame. Im not sure what the max width wheel possible is without installing wider quarter panels, but I'll let you know soon.
Obviously you must remove the rear floor for it to even be possible to run the C5/C6 suspension SRIII Frame. Im not sure what the max width wheel possible is without installing wider quarter panels, but I'll let you know soon.
#38
Pro
Thread Starter
The floor pan kit from Mike/SRIII works great and simplifies things quite a bit. It takes about an hour to remove the old floor, wheel wells, and jack well, and about 2-3 hours to fit and bond the new panels in place.
Obviously you must remove the rear floor for it to even be possible to run the C5/C6 suspension SRIII Frame. Im not sure what the max width wheel possible is without installing wider quarter panels, but I'll let you know soon.
Obviously you must remove the rear floor for it to even be possible to run the C5/C6 suspension SRIII Frame. Im not sure what the max width wheel possible is without installing wider quarter panels, but I'll let you know soon.
#39
Instructor
I need to order my floor pan kit also, how much did it run? I have gts rear quarters to install as soon as I finish aligning my doors and I believe they will be 1 to 1.5 " wider than stock. I would hate to cut good quarters but my quarters were real bad so it was a no brainer to go with wider ones. They look so good I think I am going to widen the front about.5 to 1 inch also. Are you going to widen yours?
#40
Drifting
I need to order my floor pan kit also, how much did it run? I have gts rear quarters to install as soon as I finish aligning my doors and I believe they will be 1 to 1.5 " wider than stock. I would hate to cut good quarters but my quarters were real bad so it was a no brainer to go with wider ones. They look so good I think I am going to widen the front about.5 to 1 inch also. Are you going to widen yours?
You can fit a 275/35/18 on the front with Z06 offset 18" rim
R/
Jeff
Last edited by 1coolC2; 11-19-2013 at 11:56 AM.