TWINRAY

Those who have it, know what it is - those that don't, be grateful.

I've tried wipping the area off with acetone and then wiping with a dry cloth but to no avail - I've done this for the past 3 years. I'm now reskinning with West epoxy and resin - 4 layers on the top and 3 on the sides. I need to do the total left side top surround and the cowl.

Revfan

Ok... I'll be the ignorant noob... what is it?

AC oil contamination?

old_vette

Why not spray on some Ecklers gel coat to seal the surface?

mgsabrsula

That seems like it’s going to be an awful amount of surface finish work. From your post, I’m not sure what got on it. Has the hood surround been changed in the past and is something leeching through the paint?
I think in the end it would be easier and faster to replace the hood surround. I'm interested to know how you’re going to compensate for panel height alignment. I know real ’67 hood surrounds are hard to find but they do come up from time to time. If you don’t want to go aftermarket, the GM SMC panels can still be found also. You are much more brave than I am to attempt this.

66jack

Brake fluid

TWINRAY

About 90%+ done in covering the Fiberglass repaired area with Vette Panel Adhesive – will finish up next year starting with GelCoat. This procedure should work and hopefully saved me from a new panel replacement and the fitting work involved with that – not that this repair wasn’t exactly a snap.

Dave Tracy

csysman

brake fluid or stripping agent that wasnt cleaned off before spraying the car - been there done that -- nice job on the repair

TWINRAY

Could have been caused by a few reasons. I've owned the car since 1975 and I know that I didn't spill brake fluid on the panels. 40+ year old panels are subject to leaching from ANY contaminent found UNDER the hood -like brake fluid vapors or oil droplet vapors from the exhaust manifold or blow by from the tube going into the air cleaner (etc.). Fiberglass is porous and will suck up this stuff like a sponge and one theory is that the way vapors are routed from the fan under the hood are to the left side - to each his own about the reason.

1snake

Did you ever try stripping it to bare glass and shooting some good quality epoxy primer on it? I've done it that way and never had any future problems. Epoxy will seal whatever is in the glass from coming up through the paint.

MrPbody

I'm sorry if I'm peeing in your cheerios, but I see hundreds of pinholes in the new fiberglass that you've been sanding there. those pinholes are going to come back to haunt you just as bad, if not worse, that the contamination did.

65hihp

If that fender peak line is straight and true side to side and up and down, you are a better man than I am. If it were mine and there was any wiggle or dip at all in it, which may not show up until final paint is there, oh boy that would not set well with me at all. If it is laser straight, and you got the heights right, you did one hell of a slick job on that one...

chrisdev

I have to agree with old panels leaching contaminants other than spilt brake fluid. My '66 convertible has exhibited this light oily contaminant leaching from the top of the fenders for years. Yes, both sides and only after sitting in the sun for a while. I've had the car since 1971 and it has never been painted or had any body work.
My own guess is that it is something in the original materials that is deteriorating and leaching to the surface.

TWINRAY

I did the repair in sections so as not to loose the peak line and straightness. This way, when I sanded, I knew where and how much to sand. You cannot grind down the complete area all at once, lay fiberglass, sand and then expect to get everything correct. Doing it peacemeal makes the whole project much more accurate.

TWINRAY

That end section (up toward the headlights & bumper) I only laid 1 layer of fiberglass matte - it was not a contaminated area but I laid the matte so there was not a big drop off in contour since it was next to a 2 layer of matte. The 2 layer on the side butted against a 3 layer. The worst area on the top I did with 4 layers (2-14" sections), then going with a 2 layer then a 1 layer. Those aren't (exactly) pinholes but actually the one layer which I didn't completely block out. All is covered with (more than) a few layers of Vette Panel Adhesive which I individually blocked out. Here's the final which will get covered with about 6 coats of Gel Coat next season.

TWINRAY

Some also say I could have directly GelCoated the panel. I didn't want to chance it and think the West Epoxy resin/matte way was a better option.

MrPbody

I hope it works out well for you, as it looks like you're putting in a lot of hours on it.

67vetteal

I think it would be wise to Epoxy Prime, (High Build), the entire Surround Panel and put the car out in the Hot Sun for an afternoon. Al W.

DUB

Front end and other areas look GREAT. Now it is time for the gelcoat when the temps get warmer for you. Or are you planning on getting it gelcoated before winter totally sets in.

DUB

woodsdesign

My experience has been to heat the contaminated area with a heat gun or lamp, wipe with acetone then let it dry Repeat this process several times over the period of several weeks. This will draw the contaminants out of the glass. Then sand gelcoat sand and repaint. I would be worried that a fiberglass repair, especially in the top surround area will come back to haunt you. JMO