donbayers

Gracious Guru's of the CF.

I've had the chance to drive two other C-2's now (65 and 63) and WOW, man do I have a long way to go to refine my car.

On the others (very nicely restored) the accelerator pedal was nice and smooth where as mine is herky jerky while in gear.

Overall I would say that the pedal is too stiff.

I took the spring off and the actual mechanism and movement of the pedal and other related parts is silky smooth.

So it must be with the spring I have. I looked in my AIM and Noland Adams book and neither provide detailed specs on the spring.

See pics below for how this was set up when I bought the car. The spring that is on there is 9/16 OD and is 1 5/8" long (just the coil part when not pulled)

Any ideas?

thanks so much

PS. I also noticed in the AIM that it shows a cotter pin in the actual rod where as I have just the spring going through the rod hole to hold it in the bushing of the throttle lever on the carb? If I should have the CP then do I just hook the spring on the other side?

ricks327

Check the back side of the pedal to make sure it has the white plastic still there. If not there, that might be the cause of sticky pedal response.
Rick

donbayers

Awesome. Never thought to check that. Will do!

Pop Chevy

I feel you are better off (and some racing sanctions require it) to run 2 lighter springs instead of 1 heavy one. One inside the other IIRC GM used to do this .

AZDoug

If there is a divot worn in the plastic, you will experience jerky operation.

Replace the pedal.

Doug

donbayers

I'll be damned you are right. The back side of petal has a piece of white plastic and there is a pretty good divot worn in it.

I also noticed while reading the AIM instructions for setting wide open throttle that my swivel where it connects the rod and lever is not correct.

Boy, the time it takes to undo half a**ed fixes of the past and worn out parts. But I'm learning

thanks so much

donbayers

Hey;

does not look like I have the right spring as well.

Paragon shows a different one

https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...rn-spring.aspx

Also, my rod to lever connection is not right at all

https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ation-kit.aspx


PS. what is the spring set up on the pic below?? It looks like the two spring set up that was mentioned above.

MikeM

Make sure your rear linkage swivel isn't catching on the ignition shield with the spring on. Yours may be on backwards.

Can't really tell if you have the wrong spring but it looks like it might have too much tension.

gbvette62

There were assorted different accelerator return springs, used between 63 and 67. The spring used varied by year, small block or big block and the type of induction system. The spring you have, doesn't look like any of the springs, originally used between 63 & 67.

62-63 340's, used the white spring, that's in the Paragon link. I would order the correct spring, the rod bushing kit, and the accelerator pedal "anti-squeak" pad, or a whole pedal if you can't locate the pad separately. With all of these installed, you should find the movement of your accelerator linkage, much smoother.

It probably wouldn't hurt to find a smaller, lighter spring, that would fit inside the correct white one, just for safeties sake. I can attest to the fact, that it's quite startling, to have a return spring break!

Rich Yanulis

I hope this does not confuse things. I have an unmolested '63 340.

The top spring in the photo is my original part.
The lower one is the reproduction I purchased from Paragon.
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...rn-spring.aspx

The coiled portion was too long so I had to cut the length and bend it to work.
(long story, but I reinstalled my original)

Bottom line is, I do not think the reproduction springs are correct.

donbayers

Rich;

thanks for the post. Here is a pic of the #754 spring from Paragon site.

It looks similar to your original.

PS. Look at Noland Adams book Page 128-130. There are pics of the same spring

Kerrmudgeon

there should be a hole in the carb linkage arm specific for the spring. It doesn't go where the cotter pin goes to hole the rod on. It may be binding with the wrong angle like that, giving that not very smooth feel.

Rich Yanulis

Don,
The bottom spring in my photo is #754 that I purchased from Paragon.

The coiled section was too long. If you look closely, I had to cut the long straight "leg" and bend a new hook into it to make it work.

Maybe you will have better luck with the reproduction part than I did
Rich

1snake

Nope. The spring goes into the hole in the end of the throttle rod. No cotter pin is used. Check your AIM.
Here's an original 65 300HP. The end you can't see hooks into the throttle rod


Jim

JohnZ

For Don's '63, it takes a separate cotter pin for that application, but the carburetor throttle arm in his photo is missing the separate small hole for the spring. The '63 A.I.M. shows this in UPC 6, sheet C1.00, View "A".

Most later cars used the other arrangement, with the return spring "hook" through the hole in the accelerator rod, but '63 was different (as usual).

donbayers

John Z; thanks for the post. You are correct and see below the page you reference. I wonder why in the world I'm missing a hole in the throttle arm for the spring???? I guess a lot can happen in 50 years

Rich, do you have this hole in your arm that John Z speaks of??? Can you take a pic?

Rich Yanulis

I have a 3461S carburetor dated one month before my build date.
I believe it to be the carb it was "born with" however,
it does not have the hole mentioned by JohnZ and shown in the AIM.

There is a small cotter pin on the back side.

MikeM

Is that AIM sheet displayed here for a base engine with WCFB carb or the optional AFB carb?

I don't think it would matter much where the spring was hooked, the OP's spring just looks too strong.

1snake

My mistake. He never said he was working on a 63.

Jim

Rich Yanulis

Good thought process

There were two different carbs in '63, maybe the throttle arms were different.