oil pressure line
07-25-2013, 05:53 PM
#1
6th Gear
Thread Starter
oil pressure line
new to forum, I have 65 am running new oil pressure line, bought kit metal line about two ft long, old was plastic line. How do I run new line, to gauge, cut to fit?
07-25-2013, 07:06 PM
#4
Race Director
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
I don't think you need to cut it. Just make the fitting connections at the block and the back of the gauge. Be careful at the gauge, you will need a small open end wrench to hold the brass block as you tighten the fitting. Make sure the line clears the full range of motion of the throttle linkage. 
Dennis
Dennis
07-25-2013, 09:49 PM
#5
Drifting
Oil line & fittings
Make sure you get the proper line with the proper fittings at the ends. A universal line WILL NOT FIT. The adapter at the block has to be correct also.
RON
RON
07-26-2013, 05:52 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Oweo,
Get the kit from one of the major vendors. The line is copper coated steel with special fittings for the block and the back of the gauge. Be careful when you attach it to the gauge. Make sure to hold the square fitting with a backing wrench while you snug the fitting to the gauge.
See attached PDF.
Dave Z
Get the kit from one of the major vendors. The line is copper coated steel with special fittings for the block and the back of the gauge. Be careful when you attach it to the gauge. Make sure to hold the square fitting with a backing wrench while you snug the fitting to the gauge.
See attached PDF.
Dave Z
07-27-2013, 12:08 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
Oweo,
Get the kit from one of the major vendors. The line is copper coated steel with special fittings for the block and the back of the gauge. Be careful when you attach it to the gauge. Make sure to hold the square fitting with a backing wrench while you snug the fitting to the gauge.
See attached PDF.
Dave Z
Get the kit from one of the major vendors. The line is copper coated steel with special fittings for the block and the back of the gauge. Be careful when you attach it to the gauge. Make sure to hold the square fitting with a backing wrench while you snug the fitting to the gauge.
See attached PDF.
Dave Z
07-27-2013, 12:42 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
The fittings do the flaring.
Last edited by Gary's '66; 07-27-2013 at 12:43 AM. Reason: Correction
07-27-2013, 12:08 PM
#9
6th Gear
Thread Starter
everyone thanks,alot of info,I should of joined forum years ago, I'll let you know how it turns out. oweo
Last edited by oweo; 07-27-2013 at 10:25 PM.
07-28-2013, 07:59 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
The tightening of the fitting that's on the tube causes it to crush around the tube and that's what makes the seal. Make sure the oil tube is fully seated and remains there while the fitting is tightened. If the tube isn't fully seated, the tip of the fitting will be distorted and the tube will slip right out of it and you'll need a new fitting. Don't ask me how I know.
Jim
Jim
09-08-2013, 10:26 PM
#13
Instructor
Oil pressure line
Just went through this myself today. If your line kit is like mine (from Paragon -copper coated steel, and pretty stiff). You should have two brass compression fittings, one for each end. I was able to straighten the line, after applying one fitting for the dash end and snake it up to the gauge. Many tiny 3/8" wrench strokes and done. Moving the vent cables helped.
09-08-2013, 10:31 PM
#14
Instructor
Oil pressure line
Just went through this myself today. If your line kit is like mine (from Paragon -copper coated steel, and pretty stiff). You should have two brass compression fittings, one for each end. I was able to straighten the line, after applying one fitting for the dash end and snake it up to the gauge. Many tiny 3/8" wrench strokes and done. Moving the vent cables helped. The line is longer than needed. I coiled the slack out of the way of the accelerator link.