Troubleshooting experts, enter.
#27
Drifting
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I have been following and asking in between boring conf call conversations..
did you say you had/lost voltage at the f/w...no voltage on the fuse block.
Pass through plug on the firewall the problem?
did you say you had/lost voltage at the f/w...no voltage on the fuse block.
Pass through plug on the firewall the problem?
#29
Team Owner
At this point I'm almost thinking something went wrong on the ground side of the circuitry.
#30
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
According to the battery manufacturer, 12.9 volts indicates a fully charged battery and these batteries don't catastrophically fail. It was working perfectly, sat disconnected for 6 hours and then re-connected.
#31
Team Owner
From a troubleshooting standpoint I would start at the dome light and work backwards using a wiring diagram until I found the problem.
Without being at the side of your car and being that you completed a complete wire harness to lug nut reastoration my guess is you left some grounding straps disconnected or didn't install some of the important one's. Althoug that should not effect the starting part of this unless you have a bad main ground cable goin from the battery to the block.
Do I win a cool one?
Without being at the side of your car and being that you completed a complete wire harness to lug nut reastoration my guess is you left some grounding straps disconnected or didn't install some of the important one's. Althoug that should not effect the starting part of this unless you have a bad main ground cable goin from the battery to the block.
Do I win a cool one?
Last edited by Mr D.; 07-16-2013 at 03:48 PM.
#32
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It might be a shorted out starter solenoid. It could .be taking all the current to ground
#33
Team Owner
#34
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for everyone's participation.
Time for a re-cap. 12.9 volts everywhere but not at the fuse panel. Sure sounds like the firewall connector to me. I try to wiggle the connector, even though it's tight and check for power at the fuse box, none. This is getting crazy. I decide to regroup and start all over again. Check the battery for voltage - zero. WTF?????? I make sure the leads are tight on the volt meter, 12.9 volts now. In hind sight, at the same time I was checking the volt meter, my buddy who was checking to see if the dome light was on, closed the door. HINT, HINT, HINT.
We tried to jump start the car. It would turn over about one revolution and stop. Possibly too long of cables even though they are quite heavy gauge.
He11 with it, I decide to change out the battery. That's not fun under the best of conditions but on the car show field under a hot sun, it really sux. With a new battery, it fires right up and I drive home with no problems.
I check the first battery again and it is 100% charged according to the Odessey charger that reads voltage and % of charge. I left the charger hooked up to it, in monitor mode only, not charging and tried a small dash light bulb directly to the terminals. The voltage dropped to ZERO, the bulb didn't even flicker and the charger said "no battery detected". I removed the bulb and the voltage went right back up and it's 100% charged. That's why the battery read full voltage everywhere but when I opened the door to check the dome light or for power at the fuse box, it dropped to zero.
The manufacturer is sending a new battery and paid for return shipping of the old one. They have never heard of this happening and said that, basically, it's not possible for a 1/4 watt bulb to make the voltage drop to zero so they're going to dissect it and get back to me.
This episode really had myself and a lot of others scratching their.
Last edited by 1snake; 07-16-2013 at 03:52 PM.
#35
Race Director
#36
Team Owner
Haven't made the switch to AGM yet and in no hurry to do so. Some have phenomenal luck with them -- other folks ? Not so much...
#39
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You were sniffing around the right area in your first post.
Thanks for everyone's participation.
Time for a re-cap. 12.9 volts everywhere but not at the fuse panel. Sure sounds like the firewall connector to me. I try to wiggle the connector, even though it's tight and check for power at the fuse box, none. This is getting crazy. I decide to regroup and start all over again. Check the battery for voltage - zero. WTF?????? I make sure the leads are tight on the volt meter, 12.9 volts now. In hind sight, at the same time I was checking the volt meter, my buddy who was checking to see if the dome light was on, closed the door. HINT, HINT, HINT.
We tried to jump start the car. It would turn over about one revolution and stop. Possibly too long of cables even though they are quite heavy gauge.
He11 with it, I decide to change out the battery. That's not fun under the best of conditions but on the car show field under a hot sun, it really sux. With a new battery, it fires right up and I drive home with no problems.
I check the first battery again and it is 100% charged according to the Odessey charger that reads voltage and % of charge. I left the charger hooked up to it, in monitor mode only, not charging and tried a small dash light bulb directly to the terminals. The voltage dropped to ZERO, the bulb didn't even flicker and the charger said "no battery detected". I removed the bulb and the voltage went right back up and it's 100% charged. That's why the battery read full voltage everywhere but when I opened the door to check the dome light or for power at the fuse box, it dropped to zero.
The manufacturer is sending a new battery and paid for return shipping of the old one. They have never heard of this happening and said that, basically, it's not possible for a 1/4 watt bulb to make the voltage drop to zero so they're going to dissect it and get back to me.
This episode really had myself and a lot of others scratching their.
Thanks for everyone's participation.
Time for a re-cap. 12.9 volts everywhere but not at the fuse panel. Sure sounds like the firewall connector to me. I try to wiggle the connector, even though it's tight and check for power at the fuse box, none. This is getting crazy. I decide to regroup and start all over again. Check the battery for voltage - zero. WTF?????? I make sure the leads are tight on the volt meter, 12.9 volts now. In hind sight, at the same time I was checking the volt meter, my buddy who was checking to see if the dome light was on, closed the door. HINT, HINT, HINT.
We tried to jump start the car. It would turn over about one revolution and stop. Possibly too long of cables even though they are quite heavy gauge.
He11 with it, I decide to change out the battery. That's not fun under the best of conditions but on the car show field under a hot sun, it really sux. With a new battery, it fires right up and I drive home with no problems.
I check the first battery again and it is 100% charged according to the Odessey charger that reads voltage and % of charge. I left the charger hooked up to it, in monitor mode only, not charging and tried a small dash light bulb directly to the terminals. The voltage dropped to ZERO, the bulb didn't even flicker and the charger said "no battery detected". I removed the bulb and the voltage went right back up and it's 100% charged. That's why the battery read full voltage everywhere but when I opened the door to check the dome light or for power at the fuse box, it dropped to zero.
The manufacturer is sending a new battery and paid for return shipping of the old one. They have never heard of this happening and said that, basically, it's not possible for a 1/4 watt bulb to make the voltage drop to zero so they're going to dissect it and get back to me.
This episode really had myself and a lot of others scratching their.
#40
Team Owner