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I’m running a numbers matching rebuilt 327/365hp motor in my ’64 coupe that is consistently overheating. Heading out on a drive I start with a 5 min drive to the highway and cruise at 60 mph. 15 min after that the needle climbs over 210 deg. This isn’t an issue of simply running hot, because it will continue over 210 if I don’t stop and it’s hard to completely enjoy a car that has a 20 min driving range. The temp grows consistently and only once did I let it go over 210 deg to puking (240+). That was a mistake I’ll only make once so to protect this motor.
I have gone through all the FAQ and Sticky threads on this forum and am at a dead end. References are listed in the links at the bottom for what I read through. The most helpful was John Hinckley’s article titled “Early Corvette Cooling”.
To follow Mr. Hinckley’s checklist:
Coolant – 50/50 mix with Water Wetter
Radiator – 6 years old aluminum Griffin that has been flushed regularly, is clean of debris, and has good flow. 20 deg of cooling when idling in garage (180 top, 160 bottom)
Expansion Tank – Filled exactly half way to the “Fill Cold” line
Water Pump – High flow replacement
Thermostat – New, tested 160 deg. (I know 160 vs. 180 is irrelevant)
Radiator Cap – 16# (13# used with same result)
Lower Radiator Hose – New and reinforced
Fan Shroud and Seals – All stock and accounted for
Fan and Clutch – Clutch fan working properly. Replaced with solid racing fan and got same result. Half-in/half-out
Temperature Gauge and Sending Unit – Verified accurate with IR gun
Ignition Timing – Total timing set to 34 deg results with a base timing of 12 deg. Less advanced timing provided the same result in temp.
Engine Bore – 4.06” diameter
I’ve had the car for two weeks and would like to “watch the scenery while cruising instead of the temperature gauge” so any input is much appreciated.
The car did puke the one time he let it go above 210 as indicated in the first post - he has a genuine overheating problem - not faulty instrumentation IMO. He also verified readings with I/R temp gun.
OP has done all the logical, correct things to troubleshoot. I'll be interested to see what others may say on the topic.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-09-2013 at 11:25 AM.
What's the build history on the motor? Fresh rebuild, recent rebuild, or original? What coolant was in it when you bought it? Aluminum or cast pump? Aluminum or original heads? See my post on the 66 overheating big block - excessive corrosion build up. If all else has been ruled out, a blockage is likely.
If the car's not acting funny...gurgling, steaming, or spewing, I'd suspect the gauge or sender unit. Check it with an infrared meter on thermostat housing and other parts of the motor before you start messing with the motor.
"Temperature Gauge and Sending Unit – Verified accurate with IR gun"
Ya, the "high flow" can pump coolant so fast it doesn't have time to do a heat exchange.
I've heard of that and it made me wonder.
If it's idling and not even driving, wouldn't a drop in temp from 180 to 160 be a good indicator of the heat exchange rate? 20 deg isn't great but I wouldn't think it's all that bad for sitting in a hot garage with minimal air flow.