60 327 any advantage in increasing radiator cap lb?
06-07-2013, 07:54 PM
#1
60 327 any advantage in increasing radiator cap lb?
Is there any advantage in increasing my 7lb radiator cap to something higher?
60 327
No expansion tank.
New Dewitts Direct Fit radiator.
60 327
No expansion tank.
New Dewitts Direct Fit radiator.
06-07-2013, 08:00 PM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes
on
1,398 Posts
This oughta' be a good one!
06-08-2013, 08:47 AM
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,986
Received 6,929 Likes
on
4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Did you think you have over filled the radiator and its just puking until its the right level
06-08-2013, 09:24 AM
#7
Ya, whenever I fill it up to the top of the radiator it always pukes out about 1 and 1/2 quarts, the car seems to find its own level, life is good and I drive per normal.
This has always been what it does. I use a 50/50 mixture with distilled water.
In regards to my cap lb question. I wasn't trying to stop the puking but trying to see if was more efficient or better for the engine to increase the boiling point.
This has always been what it does. I use a 50/50 mixture with distilled water.
In regards to my cap lb question. I wasn't trying to stop the puking but trying to see if was more efficient or better for the engine to increase the boiling point.
06-08-2013, 09:37 AM
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes
on
1,398 Posts
Ya, whenever I fill it up to the top of the radiator it always pukes out about 1 and 1/2 quarts, the car seems to find its own level, life is good and I drive per normal.
This has always been what it does. I use a 50/50 mixture with distilled water.
In regards to my cap lb question. I wasn't trying to stop the puking but trying to see if was more efficient or better for the engine to increase the boiling point.
This has always been what it does. I use a 50/50 mixture with distilled water.
In regards to my cap lb question. I wasn't trying to stop the puking but trying to see if was more efficient or better for the engine to increase the boiling point.
06-08-2013, 09:46 AM
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,986
Received 6,929 Likes
on
4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
06-08-2013, 09:52 AM
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Inverness FL
Posts: 17,891
Received 727 Likes
on
621 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07
or put a recovery tank on it and let it 'recover' itself. IF he can keep the radiator a qt or more 'filled' then it would be beneficial to ''filler up' to the top... water in the radiator is a more efficient coolant than air space.
Bill
Bill
06-08-2013, 09:52 AM
#11
Drifting
Dave
06-08-2013, 10:49 AM
#12
Race Director
50/50 w/ 7# boils ~245F
w/14# boils ~265
most guys would panic with either temp
i usually run 14 or 15
but my experimental 4.5#, 4cyl rad in my 61 came with a 7# european cap and at 25% EG, 75% water it should boil at 238F. so if it ever hits 230, my plan is to pull over under a tree somewhere.
3+ years and no problem. This rad has NO PLACE to hook a catch can
w/14# boils ~265
most guys would panic with either temp
i usually run 14 or 15
but my experimental 4.5#, 4cyl rad in my 61 came with a 7# european cap and at 25% EG, 75% water it should boil at 238F. so if it ever hits 230, my plan is to pull over under a tree somewhere.
3+ years and no problem. This rad has NO PLACE to hook a catch can
06-08-2013, 10:58 AM
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Inverness FL
Posts: 17,891
Received 727 Likes
on
621 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07
50/50 w/ 7# boils ~245F
w/14# boils ~265
most guys would panic with either temp
i usually run 14 or 15
but my experimental 4.5#, 4cyl rad in my 61 came with a 7# european cap and at 25% EG, 75% water it should boil at 238F. so if it ever hits 230, my plan is to pull over under a tree somewhere.
3+ years and no problem. This rad has NO PLACE to hook a catch can
w/14# boils ~265
most guys would panic with either temp
i usually run 14 or 15
but my experimental 4.5#, 4cyl rad in my 61 came with a 7# european cap and at 25% EG, 75% water it should boil at 238F. so if it ever hits 230, my plan is to pull over under a tree somewhere.
3+ years and no problem. This rad has NO PLACE to hook a catch can
Bill
06-08-2013, 11:17 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
The advantage of a higher pressure cap is a higher boiling point of coolant as stated. The disadvantage is if you have a weak rad core and stressing it more. But you have a modern AL rad, so no problem there.
Any system benefits from using a closed system...and if you get a new cap just make sure its for use with a recovery bottle.
Any system benefits from using a closed system...and if you get a new cap just make sure its for use with a recovery bottle.
06-08-2013, 11:24 AM
#15
Drifting
50/50 w/ 7# boils ~245F
w/14# boils ~265
most guys would panic with either temp
i usually run 14 or 15
but my experimental 4.5#, 4cyl rad in my 61 came with a 7# european cap and at 25% EG, 75% water it should boil at 238F. so if it ever hits 230, my plan is to pull over under a tree somewhere.
3+ years and no problem. This rad has NO PLACE to hook a catch can
w/14# boils ~265
most guys would panic with either temp
i usually run 14 or 15
but my experimental 4.5#, 4cyl rad in my 61 came with a 7# european cap and at 25% EG, 75% water it should boil at 238F. so if it ever hits 230, my plan is to pull over under a tree somewhere.
3+ years and no problem. This rad has NO PLACE to hook a catch can
Dave
06-08-2013, 11:38 AM
#16
Race Director
Bill
no vent line! What it has is several slits around the (screw on) cap mount to direct overflow down. Had i known that, i would NOT of ordered it.
BUT, until it rots out, it is staying in there. it was only $125, can't expect high class for that!
Just bought a 60% LARGER alum rad for my 72 that is really an 89 camaro rad, made in canada and just $89.99. I can't help it, i'm addicted to bargains
no vent line! What it has is several slits around the (screw on) cap mount to direct overflow down. Had i known that, i would NOT of ordered it.
BUT, until it rots out, it is staying in there. it was only $125, can't expect high class for that!
Just bought a 60% LARGER alum rad for my 72 that is really an 89 camaro rad, made in canada and just $89.99. I can't help it, i'm addicted to bargains
06-08-2013, 03:53 PM
#18
Hi: I've had many cars over the years, but never had one with a 7 lb radiator cap. All have been 13 to 15 lb caps. A higher pressure in the system will raise the boiling point of water. Is your car boiling over? It sounds like it might be if it is kicking out a 1 1/2 quarts of coolant, that sounds like alot. Most radiators without a expansion tank will drop maybe 2 inches. What's the level of fluid left in the radiator after it kicks out 1 1/2 quarts of fluid?
Dave
Dave
06-08-2013, 06:11 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Bucks Co. / outside Philadelphia PA
Posts: 5,437
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
After the car is up to temp. the air in the radiator should have pushed itself out by the expanding coolant, just as any excess coolant would have if it were completely filled before running.
06-08-2013, 06:12 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Bucks Co. / outside Philadelphia PA
Posts: 5,437
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
The advantage of a higher pressure cap is a higher boiling point of coolant as stated. The disadvantage is if you have a weak rad core and stressing it more. But you have a modern AL rad, so no problem there.
Any system benefits from using a closed system...and if you get a new cap just make sure its for use with a recovery bottle.
Any system benefits from using a closed system...and if you get a new cap just make sure its for use with a recovery bottle.