IF you were going from SB to BB you'd need to...
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
IF you were going from SB to BB you'd need to...
Ok...
If you were not concerned with making a L36, , L68, L71 etc CLONE, but just wanted to put a BB in a NOM mid year... besides the engine, what would you "have" to do... Assuming its an originally SB 65-67 car.
For EX would you/should you add a sway bar? Go with a TI, change how your half shafts mount...
I talking about safe & fun, not passing any judging.
Thanks, in Advance....
*EDIT*
I saw Procrastination Racing's post (after I tweaked my search) and he came up with this... I am assuming that this is the necessary items even if you are not judging the car?
1. Big block
2. Short water pump
3. Set of pulleys for a short water pump (crank pulley is flat against the harmonic damper [balancer])
4. In 1963 and 1964, the larger crank pulleys will not clear the cross member. Use smaller crank pulleys. I can't remember if the limit is 7 inch or 6 inch diameter. You can also use the aluminum underdrive crank pulleys from many speed shops. Be sure they fit 1968 and older Chevrolet or 1965-1974 Corvette.
5. Big block exhaust manifolds or headers - most big block headers will hit the steering box during installation and are frequently dented to clear.
6. Stock radiator is too small. The big block aluminum radiator is expensive, so the stock '66 to '74 big block radiator is usually the most economical choice.
7. Big block brackets for alternator, power steering, and air conditioning.
8. Modified hood, '65-'67 big block hood, or aftermarket hood with scoop.
9. Heavier front springs.
10. Corvette only oil pan - not cheap
11. You probably want to add heavier front sway bar and add the rear sway bar that is stock on '65-'74 big blocks.
12. Various options on the clutch. While a 10 inch will work, you will blow it easily. You can run a dual disc aftermarket. Or change to the 14 inch flywheel and run the 11 inch disc, which is stock.
If you were not concerned with making a L36, , L68, L71 etc CLONE, but just wanted to put a BB in a NOM mid year... besides the engine, what would you "have" to do... Assuming its an originally SB 65-67 car.
For EX would you/should you add a sway bar? Go with a TI, change how your half shafts mount...
I talking about safe & fun, not passing any judging.
Thanks, in Advance....
*EDIT*
I saw Procrastination Racing's post (after I tweaked my search) and he came up with this... I am assuming that this is the necessary items even if you are not judging the car?
1. Big block
2. Short water pump
3. Set of pulleys for a short water pump (crank pulley is flat against the harmonic damper [balancer])
4. In 1963 and 1964, the larger crank pulleys will not clear the cross member. Use smaller crank pulleys. I can't remember if the limit is 7 inch or 6 inch diameter. You can also use the aluminum underdrive crank pulleys from many speed shops. Be sure they fit 1968 and older Chevrolet or 1965-1974 Corvette.
5. Big block exhaust manifolds or headers - most big block headers will hit the steering box during installation and are frequently dented to clear.
6. Stock radiator is too small. The big block aluminum radiator is expensive, so the stock '66 to '74 big block radiator is usually the most economical choice.
7. Big block brackets for alternator, power steering, and air conditioning.
8. Modified hood, '65-'67 big block hood, or aftermarket hood with scoop.
9. Heavier front springs.
10. Corvette only oil pan - not cheap
11. You probably want to add heavier front sway bar and add the rear sway bar that is stock on '65-'74 big blocks.
12. Various options on the clutch. While a 10 inch will work, you will blow it easily. You can run a dual disc aftermarket. Or change to the 14 inch flywheel and run the 11 inch disc, which is stock.
Last edited by Revfan; 06-02-2013 at 09:14 AM.
#2
Safety Car
Ok...
If you were not concerned with making a L36, , L68, L71 etc CLONE, but just wanted to put a BB in a NOM mid year... besides the engine, what would you "have" to do... Assuming its an originally SB 65-67 car.
For EX would you/should you add a sway bar? Go with a TI, change how your half shafts mount...
I talking about safe & fun, not passing any judging.
Thanks, in Advance....
*EDIT*
I saw Procrastination Racing's post (after I tweaked my search) and he came up with this... I am assuming that this is the necessary items even if you are not judging the car?
Made some additional comments that might be helpful
1. Big block
2. Short water pump
3. Set of pulleys for a short water pump (crank pulley is flat against the harmonic damper [balancer])
4. In 1963 and 1964, the larger crank pulleys will not clear the cross member. Use smaller crank pulleys. I can't remember if the limit is 7 inch or 6 inch diameter. You can also use the aluminum underdrive crank pulleys from many speed shops. Be sure they fit 1968 and older Chevrolet or 1965-1974 Corvette.
5. Big block exhaust manifolds or headers - most big block headers will hit the steering box during installation and are frequently dented to clear.
6. Stock radiator is too small. The big block aluminum radiator is expensive, so the stock '66 to '74 big block radiator is usually the most economical choice. You will need to replace the radiator support to use a stock big block radiator, and even then you can only use 66-68 radiators; they enlrged them in '69. You can also fit a stock 65 '396 radiator in the stock radiator support.
7. Big block brackets for alternator, power steering, and air conditioning.
8. Modified hood, '65-'67 big block hood, or aftermarket hood with scoop.
9. Heavier front springs.
10. Corvette only oil pan - not cheap
11. You probably want to add heavier front sway bar and add the rear sway bar that is stock on '65-'74 big blocks.
12. Various options on the clutch. While a 10 inch will work, you will blow it easily. You can run a dual disc aftermarket. Or change to the 14 inch flywheel and run the 11 inch disc, which is stock.A heavy duty 10.4 inch clutch, e.g., Centerforce Gold or Dual Friction, will hold a BB just fine. If you change to the 14 inch flywheel you will need a different bellhousing and starter nose for that size flywheel.
If you were not concerned with making a L36, , L68, L71 etc CLONE, but just wanted to put a BB in a NOM mid year... besides the engine, what would you "have" to do... Assuming its an originally SB 65-67 car.
For EX would you/should you add a sway bar? Go with a TI, change how your half shafts mount...
I talking about safe & fun, not passing any judging.
Thanks, in Advance....
*EDIT*
I saw Procrastination Racing's post (after I tweaked my search) and he came up with this... I am assuming that this is the necessary items even if you are not judging the car?
Made some additional comments that might be helpful
1. Big block
2. Short water pump
3. Set of pulleys for a short water pump (crank pulley is flat against the harmonic damper [balancer])
4. In 1963 and 1964, the larger crank pulleys will not clear the cross member. Use smaller crank pulleys. I can't remember if the limit is 7 inch or 6 inch diameter. You can also use the aluminum underdrive crank pulleys from many speed shops. Be sure they fit 1968 and older Chevrolet or 1965-1974 Corvette.
5. Big block exhaust manifolds or headers - most big block headers will hit the steering box during installation and are frequently dented to clear.
6. Stock radiator is too small. The big block aluminum radiator is expensive, so the stock '66 to '74 big block radiator is usually the most economical choice. You will need to replace the radiator support to use a stock big block radiator, and even then you can only use 66-68 radiators; they enlrged them in '69. You can also fit a stock 65 '396 radiator in the stock radiator support.
7. Big block brackets for alternator, power steering, and air conditioning.
8. Modified hood, '65-'67 big block hood, or aftermarket hood with scoop.
9. Heavier front springs.
10. Corvette only oil pan - not cheap
11. You probably want to add heavier front sway bar and add the rear sway bar that is stock on '65-'74 big blocks.
12. Various options on the clutch. While a 10 inch will work, you will blow it easily. You can run a dual disc aftermarket. Or change to the 14 inch flywheel and run the 11 inch disc, which is stock.A heavy duty 10.4 inch clutch, e.g., Centerforce Gold or Dual Friction, will hold a BB just fine. If you change to the 14 inch flywheel you will need a different bellhousing and starter nose for that size flywheel.
14. TI is not necessary. Think about a distributor mounted EI, like Unilite or Pertronix Ignotor II for convenience, but points will work just fine
#3
Le Mans Master
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Add exhaust too. The small block will not match up to the new headers.
New oil pressure line. The big block location is down lower and the old line may not be long enough.
If you have a BB with tall valve covers it will not work with a power brake vacuum booster.
Be sure the big block has a low intake manifold. Even with a BB hood, there is not a lot of room.
New oil pressure line. The big block location is down lower and the old line may not be long enough.
If you have a BB with tall valve covers it will not work with a power brake vacuum booster.
Be sure the big block has a low intake manifold. Even with a BB hood, there is not a lot of room.
#4
Melting Slicks
#7
Le Mans Master
I eventually plan to add a 427 to my 65 Smallblock Coupe so when I needed to replace the old Brass/Copper replacement radiator a couple years ago I talked with John at DeWitts about an alternative to having to swap out the core support to accommodate the 66-on larger BB radiator. He said they had a replacement aluminum radiator that would fit the stock smallblock core support but it had larger 1 1/4 tubes for more capacity. In my case, I expect this larger core DeWitts radiator, with the aid of an electric fan, should have no problems handling the mild Bigblock I intend to add (10 to 1, 218/228 cam, Edelbrock Oval Heads, Headers). The DeWitts part number for that radiator is: 1149063M.
Mike T.
Mike T.
#8
Racer
SB to BB
Mine is a 65 and I bought the DeWitts SB to BB radiator. I am in the middle of doing mine now. I did some other items, r&p steering and serpentine belt (March System). Adding both of these caused me to raise the engine 1/2 inch. The pulley hit the frame in the front but clears now and the r&p hit the oil pan but clears now. I have an L88 hood so clearance shouldn't be an issue. I am not going to fool with the half shafts yet other than the solid style u-joints. I had the smaller bell housing (3858403) on the small block originally and it won't fit with the bigger flywheel, but pulled the larger one off of a Camaro (3899621) that we put a 572 in. I am not going to do the sway bar thing yet. The ZZ427 only weighs 25 pounds more than the all iron small block.
Last edited by new vette 62; 06-02-2013 at 12:03 PM.
#9
Le Mans Master
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I eventually plan to add a 427 to my 65 Smallblock Coupe so when I needed to replace the old Brass/Copper replacement radiator a couple years ago I talked with John at DeWitts about an alternative to having to swap out the core support to accommodate the 66-on larger BB radiator. He said they had a replacement aluminum radiator that would fit the stock smallblock core support but it had larger 1 1/4 tubes for more capacity. In my case, I expect this larger core DeWitts radiator, with the aid of an electric fan, should have no problems handling the mild Bigblock I intend to add (10 to 1, 218/228 cam, Edelbrock Oval Heads, Headers). The DeWitts part number for that radiator is: 1149063M.
Mike T.
Mike T.
That's what I got. I took it out for it's first good run on Friday for about 2.5 hours. It was over 90* out. I ran it down the highway and through a few small towns and got stuck in traffic in a construction area. Temps stayed at 180 to 190.
#10
Racer
Nice Motor
Looks great. I see you did the hydro boost brakes. I am going to try the dual diaphragm 7 inch brake booster. I have the dished chrome big block valve covers, but I like the look of the ones on the ZZ427.
#11
Le Mans Master
Ed - Your radiator looks to be wider than the one I have. The larger core DeWitts I got back in 2/11 looks almost identical to the 63M smallblock replacement radiator they sell meaning it has the inlet hose bib at the 'top' of the tank, not down a bit like the one in your pics. I just found the old invoice and that part number I listed above must be new, my old invoice lists that larger core radiator as: A63M 1.25" Tubes.
Mike T.
Mike T.
#13
Le Mans Master
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Ed - Your radiator looks to be wider than the one I have. The larger core DeWitts I got back in 2/11 looks almost identical to the 63M smallblock replacement radiator they sell meaning it has the inlet hose bib at the 'top' of the tank, not down a bit like the one in your pics. I just found the old invoice and that part number I listed above must be new, my old invoice lists that larger core radiator as: A63M 1.25" Tubes.
Mike T.
Mike T.
link:
http://www.dewitts.com/collections/l...e-combo-manual
Last edited by EDinPA; 06-02-2013 at 09:19 PM. Reason: added link for the SB to BB rad.
#14
Le Mans Master
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For future Reference... the dewitts site
http://www.dewitts.com/products/1963...minum-radiator
http://www.dewitts.com/products/1963...minum-radiator
#15
Le Mans Master
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Mine is a 65 and I bought the DeWitts SB to BB radiator. I am in the middle of doing mine now. I did some other items, r&p steering and serpentine belt (March System). Adding both of these caused me to raise the engine 1/2 inch. The pulley hit the frame in the front but clears now and the r&p hit the oil pan but clears now. I have an L88 hood so clearance shouldn't be an issue. I am not going to fool with the half shafts yet other than the solid style u-joints. I had the smaller bell housing (3858403) on the small block originally and it won't fit with the bigger flywheel, but pulled the larger one off of a Camaro (3899621) that we put a 572 in. I am not going to do the sway bar thing yet. The ZZ427 only weighs 25 pounds more than the all iron small block.
Was there a reason you picked this march kit rather then the corvette kit?
#16
Le Mans Master
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The brakes will put your passenger through the windshield now though. It actually feels like it grabs better then my '10 grand sport.
#17
Racer
#18
Team Owner
IF you were going from SB to BB you'd need to...
Pull $10k out of the bank
Pull $10k out of the bank
#19
Le Mans Master
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I had tried to see if a kit from concept one would work because it was a little less ornate but it had the problem with how far the crank pulley stuck out and it would not clear the frame without raising the engine or modifying the frame. (They were very good to work with and even sent out a lower pulley to check for fitment)
I had my engine in the car and there was not much room for hood clearance. I am already using a drop base air filter. I actually went with a filter lid too because of how far the base had to be lowered and how close that brought the lid of the air cleaner to he throttle body. (I am using a FAST EZ EFI that is the same dimensions as a carb)