hokie04

When you buy a car that has been stored for a long period of time even thought they have it is running good now. What are the potential problem lying ahead? Like engine, trans, rear gaskets and seals, brakes, water pump, fuel pump. You get the picture I would think the more you drive over time and at high speeds the more problems may arise. Is this logic flawed? Thanks,

Matt Gruber

the only big difference between an old vette and an old mustang/camaro etc is the body surface won't rust out. otherwise it is like any used car, expensive to fix unless u do it yourself.

Nowhere Man

It would depend a lot on how and where it was stored

67's

If it has been driven lately, check where it was parked, look for telltale stains on the floor.

Mike Ward

The clock doesn't stop ticking just because the car is in storage. if gaskets dry out and leak after 20 years or so, it doesn't matter whether it's been driven or not, time's up.

dplotkin

It all depends on how they were stored which is the more important variable than how long they have been stored although the two go together the longer the time frame.

If the car was stored in a very dark, very dry environment with its fuel system drained and periodically checked for vermin infiltration, and even better if it had been pickled with some oil down the carb while running until it stalled (also called fogging) so much the better. A car stored that way will probably be fine after some thorough re-commissioning. This usually means dealing with dried out carb gaskets, oil change, coolant change, brake system flush & fresh fuel. A car left to sit for years with fuel in it will make a mess of the fuel system, including carb, lines & pump; if not dealt with properly can cause a nightmare of operating issues.

Cars that are parked & walked away from for more than a year or so, left in an unsuitable or moist environment (damp concrete or dirt floor, constant temperature and humidity swings, vermin infestation, close proximity to large operating electric motors or welding and/or sunlight exposure) can have any one or more of a number of problems that show up immediately and some that show up later.

Moisture will slowly rust the bottom side (frame, exhaust & hardware) and end up in the brake system (regardless of whether you use DOT 5 fluid or not, water ends up in both systems, the difference being only that water mixes with DOT 3 and hangs out next to DOT 5) In both cases it is a problem.

Cars that are periodically started and not driven until good & hot will have crankcases with a mixture of water (a byproduct of combustion) and gas (from a choked, cold engine) in the oil. Water from simple condensation will end up in the transmission & rear end too if not boiled out from driving to operating temperature. This problem can manifest itself in future bearing failures in both.

Sunlight attacks tires, glass rubbers & weather stripping not to mention paint fade. Ozone from operating electric motors and welders in close proximity will eat rubber.

Engines that sit for years without having first been fogged can get stuck, cylinder walls can rust & rings can be broken while attempting to start.

Now, after worrying you to no end; if the subject car is out of storage, running well and looking good, I would change all fluids, flush the brake system completely, carefully check the rubber lines and hope for the best, which is what you will probably find.

There is a risk that rear end and transmission bearings could begin to howl from being pitted and require replacement but you will get sufficient advance notice.

Dan

Rich Yanulis

WOW
Good thing I drive my unrestored 50 year old car!

hokie04

The owner purchased the car from an estate sale and was told the car was part of a large collection that was in an controlled storage environment. But they all say that but there is no way to reallly know. He said the gas was drained from tank but the 3x2 setup was all screwed up so they sent the carbs out to be rebuild. Now all it well but the car has only been driven 90 miles in the last two years. I don't want to even consider buying a delayed money pit on a car that has not been driven for at least 20yrs.

Will the seals and gasket either leak or not leake or can they break down after being driven for a thousand miles or so. That is my delimma. I guess I can try to make him cut the price a little as insurance for this. I would hate to buy it and a year later have to rebuild the engine or trans because of seals or gaskets.

dplotkin

Take that car out for a good long test drive. If you are not an expert, bring one with you. If the car runs well and after it is parked and left to cool down there is nothing leaking (beyond the typical drip or two) the carb is not leaking, it restarts easy enough after a heat soak, everything works and the oil looks clean & smells good, it is probably fine.

Cars that have sat actually run better and better the more they are driven. They like being driven, they hate being stored.

Remember the law of entropy which says "everything tends towards disorder." Owning old cars is all about confronting the reality of that law.

In my experience a stored car that now runs well and without leaks or other problems probably withstood the test of time & I'd not worry about future failures resulting therefrom. The gaskets, seals and water pump should be fine. (Check fan shaft play for a tired water pump bearing). I just rebuilt the rear end on my 62 Bonneville with 35,000 miles because...it only had 35,000 miles!
You could face that reality but it shouldn't stop you from buying an otherwise nice car if you want it.

Dan

Matt Gruber

what is the big deal about leaks? my 72 has a cookie sheet under it past 15 years. it leaked, so i re-sealed it, and it still leaks. i got over it.

dplotkin

It's no big deal. I have 8 cars, they all leak something. But none are gross leaks that risk running low on fluids or are oil leaks on hot surfaces, which is a fire risk.

Dan

mikem350

If you like the car, have driven it YOURSELF, and it's a pretty good deal..buy it.

Nothing in life is 100%..but you have done your homework, right?

Even if you buy from a dealer you prob not get a warranty!

And look at all the great FREE advice you get on this forum