Mike Terry

All you guys who are like me and do your own oil changes ext. and other things because you don't trust the yahoos at Jiffy lub or where ever, I have a question for you. How do you get the oil canester to fit back on after you change oil and put a new filter in the canester without it spitting oil out when you fire it up. Last time I did it I lost 7 qt. of oil and then went to NAPA and bought an adapter for a screw on oil filter. I would like to keep the original oil filter canester but with the price of oil it is cheaper to buy the after market adapter. How do you do it??

Nowhere Man

Throw the spin on adaptor away and use the canister Sounds like you got the o-ring gasket twisted or did not get the canister seated before you tighten the bolt

Frankie the Fink

Keep your spin on adapter.....the canister almost cost me a motor in my '61....

Nowhere Man

All the spin on adapters did for me is leave a spot on the floor.

6T7L71CPE

Exactly! I took our XTerra to the dealership to get an alignment, front brakes and free oil change done since they sent Coupons!! First thing I see is oil dripping from a sloppy change. I don't get a block away and the Slip buzzer is going nuts then the ADC and slip lights stay on. They somehow botched the alignment and these cars don't like it and start sending error codes. Thank goodness because they'd still be trying to figure it out if the computer didn't tell them what was wrong.

Hitch

Ummm that's how all cars are now adays.. There is a reason for it..

kingwoodvette

I had a continual very small drip from my spin on filter adapter. This leak spread to the back of the car and made it seem like the rear main and tranny leaked. Finally figured after following a thread here that I was using the wrong filter! I had been using a Fram PF 30 and discovered that I should be using a PF 25. No more leaks anywhere. Apparently a small difference in the gasket thickness.

Nowhere Man

My new cars don't leak oil from the filter nor does my canister in my old car

vt65

Mike I changed oil on many cars with that old cannister filter when I was a yung un at Dad's garage, never had a problem, you need to be sure to remove all the old gasket up in the groove before installing the new one then when tightening the cannister give it a little spin before snugging it up, the cannister just fits into the groove a bit.

00fxd

That would be a frosty Friday in hell that jiffy lube or anyone else would change the oil in my Corvette. Or touch anything else for that matter. A canister filter should work just fine tho a spin on with todays technology probably filters to a slightly smaller micron if you are using a quality filter not a Fram.

TCracingCA

I am sure everyone has their own ideas how to do this and without spilling oil all over. I had an oil change outfit screw this up badly!

First never change the oil at night because on the test drive, you can't see it coming out if done wrong.
Two there is the ideal temperature to warm it up, but not to get it so hot that you can't work on the car.
Three I enlarged the thru bolt hole just a touch when the cannister was out, and when you loosen the bolt quickly you push the cannister up quickly (fast) and you hold it their or the engine oil will spill out down the side and as it drains around the large oversized washer out of the bolt to drain. It takes time so I brace it up and walk away and drink beer (something productive).
When it stops draining, then I spin the cannister off after pushing the pan away, so as not to drop the whole darn cannister thing into the oil pan accident when it is out. But I replace the pan with some disposable shop rags in case it slip from my hand.

On the install, I like to pre-fill the cannister, but I put some sealant on the large washer and bolt head to stick it to the cannister. Then I use my personal three hands, to push the bolt up and the cannister down as I spin it completely to the sealed tightness. Then I fill the car with some more oil just to check for a leak, then I put the rest of the oil in.

For the gasket I spray the area ring with gasket remover to dissolve it and then I clean every bit of the old gasket out and off. Then I clean the solvent and a little gasket material spread thin on the gasket so it sticks in the proper place and don't come down and get screwed up as you tighten the cannister. Also you can overtighten the cannister and with an inferior gasket, it could quish out of place or damage it.

Get the point!

midyearvette

best way is the general's way.....remove the by pass adapter and then you have clear access to the rubber gasket either still in the block or on the edge of the by pass plate
install the gasket on the plate and then install the plate in the block......

only takes a 7/16 socket and extension and same the tools are inserted in the center hole after the bolts are removed, to pry out the by pass plate