65tripleblack

The argument doesn't hold water.

By simply stating an engine's SCR, you're only showing part of the picture. Intake valve closing point is needed and that's a good reason to specify DCR, which, by definition, is the compression ratio obtained by using the REMAINING stroke after the intake closes, rather than the entire crank stroke.

For instance: a 12:1 SCR 327 whose intake valve closes at 80* ABDC can run 93 octane pump hi-test all day long without detonation.

vetsvette2002

Or maybe he is OVER FILLING the system and it is merely trying to go to its own level.

gonefishn

I also agree that if everything is configured as OEM, then if there wasn't a problem in the day then there shouldn't be one now.

On this one car I cannot figure out why it pukes only after shutdown. I can hear it start boiling then it shoots out (very embarrassing).

The radiator cap was checked and two different ones used that matched the OEM spec. My understanding is the radiator cap only adds pressure in order to raise the antifreeze boiling point. I don't feel comfortable going with a higher pressure.

I had a Robert Shaw thermostat and went back to 100% OEM that improved the situation but still when its hot out the radiator pukes.

The vacuum advance uses full vacuum (ie not ported). The only setting outside of OEM is the timing advance is ~2 degrees higher.

I was thinking if this Evan PG antifreeze boiling point was higher then it wouldn't boil after the coolant stops circulating after shutdown and cause the pressure to build too high and puke coolant.

sub006

So you can just pour it anywhere when you're done with it, even if the drain leads to the ocean? COOL!

JohnZ

Cooling systems only "puke" during hot-soak after shutdown for two reasons - the radiator cap isn't holding pressure (pressure increases the boiling point), and/or the system is too full of coolant (coolant WILL expand during hot-soak, and if there's no expansion space in the system, it'll "puke" through the overflow). That's why the "full cold" mark on conventional radiators is 2-3 inches below the filler neck, and it's at the 1/2-full level on separate expansion tanks. If you keep topping it off, it'll keep "puking".

Bogustoms

Anybody know where to get my C3 converted to Evans coolant in The Los Angeles area?

leif.anderson93

Mike,

I have thought about using this product and here's why I didn't. When talking with some of the guys about this, and the fact that Evans tells you to completely drain your cooling system and either let it air dry overnight or blow high pressure air thru the system before adding their product so that it doesn't mix with any of the old alchohol based coolant, the question arose...what happens if you have an overheating/leaking hose problem when out on the road?? Can you easily/readily find some Evans coolant to top off after making repairs. The consensus was "No" probably not...but antifreeze is available everywhere. Hence, I still use 50/50 blend of Zerex. JMO

lurch59

Call Evans and see who is available there? Any reason not to do it yourself? It's not that hard...

lurch59

Hoses and water pumps have a predictable life span. If you ignore maintenance, your biggest bills will be from a towing company. I drive a lot, and haven't had a hose blow or an overheating problem for over 30 years. I love the Evans coolant, most likely you'll see a small leak and it gives you warning to get it checked. Don't ignore the drips on the garage floor. JMO

lurch59

Well, it's time for an update. I just drove my 690 hp big block c3 about 400 miles to a corvette shop to have it painted. I'm using the same 2 row aluminum radiator that I had for the 300 hp small block. I pulled into the shop and used his infared gun to measure the temp at the thermostat housing, which read 162 degrees. This is with the Evans coolant. Granted it's not summer yet, but it was a 70 degree day and it seems there is a lot of safety margin in the system.

BTW big block corvettes do tend to run hot, and more so if horsepower is increased.

Frankie the Fink

I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole. I realize this research is done by a firm touting a competing product; even so it was enough to steer me far clear of this silver bullet:

http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

biggd

GM uses Dex-cool in all their new vehicles. This product is readily available and better than the old green coolant. I thought about using the Evans coolant but I just couldn't see the value in it. If your car runs hot then you have other problems you need to deal with first.

lurch59

The article was interesting but I'm always wary of "geographic" testing, meaning the results of my competitors product tested at my facility proves mine is superior. Nevertheless it is something to consider. But...
Just because OEM is designed for a lighter viscosity doesn't mean it's a problem. It's the equivalent of saying we shouldn't increase hp in our engines because they were designed to be stock. I know of no water pump failures from running Evans, I've got it in 4 cars/trucks.

It's true heat transfer is superior for water, but Evans isn't "almost half" but closer to 2/3. An issue to be sure but let's not exaggerate. Also I'm having a hard time believing the super hot head temps because I've seen no increase in operating temps from my experience. If it sheads heat so poorly how can it cool off so quickly and not increase overall engine temps I've also seen graphs where the torque increased across the power band on a dyno after changing to Evans. Once again, "geographic" testing?
Evans can burn but it must be vaporized and sprayed on a hot manifold or turbo to ignite. I mean, we have pressurized fuel lines running under the hood, so we can't worry about everything. This must be also compared with all those serious steam burns that occur as a system component fails and superheated pressurized steam injures someone opening the hood.

JohnZ

See post #55.

lurch59

I've seen it and don't agree. Both Corvette shops I've had work on my car stated big blocks run hot. I've found a product that works for me, no corrosion due to acidic pH because of water present, and a lifetime coolant. It's not expensive if you keep your car for a long time, and 160 bucks for coolant isn't expensive in comparison to say fuel costs. If this seems expensive to you, I'm wondering why you don't drive a Honda.. remember I never flush and change the coolant in any of my vehicles any more. You will, many more times.

robert miller

This stuff works really good in my street car c5 vette with is a 427 procharger car. Never put it in the 65 vette, put also have it in my 57 chev 540 ci car also works great in it. The stuff is not cheap but does work in the c5 great. Plus their water pump works good but also is not cheap. Robert

leif.anderson93

John,

John Hinckley's article on Corvette cooling systems was the most logical article I have read on the subject. When I was having minor issues with my car, Joe Lucia was kind enough to forward me John's article and I was ultimately able to solve my overheating problems. His article covers all the bases and the basics. Thanks for re-posting. I had been looking for it to share with others, as well.

vetsvette2002

JohnZ IS John Hinckley

leif.anderson93

Well, there ya go!!!

lurch59

Well I believe you but for other skeptics here on the forum I should take posession of your cars for the summer and personally drive them to verify what you are saying. It's for science.....when can I pick them up?