The dreaded battery drain
11-03-2012, 05:38 PM
#1
2nd Gear
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The dreaded battery drain
This is my first post, I am really looking for some help on this. working on a 1959 that will drain a fully charged battery overnight. Car is all stock with no aftermarket devices. I removed the negative battery cable and used my test light between the cable and battery post and the light is on. I disconnected the clock and every fuse in the panel and it stays on. I have constant power to the voltage regulator so i removed the red power wire but the light stayed on. Any help would be much appreciated. I am helping a friend with her car It has been sitting for 20 Years in a heated garage, I have changed all the fluids, New brakes and rubber lines replaced the king pins and tie rods and just finished setting the alignment today and buffed the paint. car runs, drives, stops and looks great. I did install a battery disconect but would like to actually fix this. Thanks, Mike
11-03-2012, 11:34 PM
#2
do you have an under hood light in the engine compartment? I had one in a 66 and it drained my battery every night and I could not figure it out until one night I went through the garage and noticed a light on under the hood. it was that.
Another quick check that might help you or others is to remove all the fuses and then install then remove each fuse one at a time. if while your installing or removing a fuse, you get a slight or small arc or sparking, the electrical system associated with that fuse should be checked out.
also take a close look at your voltage regulator and generator. if you live near a competent rebuilder, have them check thier function.
the service manual is very helpful in diagnosing VR problems. but if you plug in Delco remy books into ebay you often come up with training literature that is much more explicit and detailed about diagnosis, testing and troubleshooting.
Another quick check that might help you or others is to remove all the fuses and then install then remove each fuse one at a time. if while your installing or removing a fuse, you get a slight or small arc or sparking, the electrical system associated with that fuse should be checked out.
also take a close look at your voltage regulator and generator. if you live near a competent rebuilder, have them check thier function.
the service manual is very helpful in diagnosing VR problems. but if you plug in Delco remy books into ebay you often come up with training literature that is much more explicit and detailed about diagnosis, testing and troubleshooting.
11-03-2012, 11:51 PM
#3
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do you have an under hood light in the engine compartment? I had one in a 66 and it drained my battery every night and I could not figure it out until one night I went through the garage and noticed a light on under the hood. it was that.
Another quick check that might help you or others is to remove all the fuses and then install then remove each fuse one at a time. if while your installing or removing a fuse, you get a slight or small arc or sparking, the electrical system associated with that fuse should be checked out.
also take a close look at your voltage regulator and generator. if you live near a competent rebuilder, have them check thier function.
the service manual is very helpful in diagnosing VR problems. but if you plug in Delco remy books into ebay you often come up with training literature that is much more explicit and detailed about diagnosis, testing and troubleshooting.
Another quick check that might help you or others is to remove all the fuses and then install then remove each fuse one at a time. if while your installing or removing a fuse, you get a slight or small arc or sparking, the electrical system associated with that fuse should be checked out.
also take a close look at your voltage regulator and generator. if you live near a competent rebuilder, have them check thier function.
the service manual is very helpful in diagnosing VR problems. but if you plug in Delco remy books into ebay you often come up with training literature that is much more explicit and detailed about diagnosis, testing and troubleshooting.
11-04-2012, 12:23 AM
#5
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I know that bad diodes in an alternator will kill a battery overnight, but I don't know if generators have diodes. If so, disconnect your generator and see if the light goes out.
11-04-2012, 04:19 AM
#6
no diodes in a generator. Its not clear to me how you are using the test light,
but that does not mean you got it wrong
after everything is disconnected does your VR or generator feel warm?
but that does not mean you got it wrong
after everything is disconnected does your VR or generator feel warm?
11-04-2012, 05:05 AM
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When you turn the ignition switch off, are you mistakenly turning it to ACC instead of OFF?
11-04-2012, 07:06 AM
#9
Team Owner
What the hey ?
The guy has done all the things (as stated in the first post) that are subsequently suggested for troubleshooting. And I don't think there is an ACC position on a '59 original ignition switch (I wish C1s did have them). There are no underhood or glove box lights on these cars either.
I would (once again) remove ALL of the fuses in the fuse box...if you still have current draw then I would disconnect the lead from the battery to the back of the ammeter. 98% of the car's circuitry goes through that lead. Do this VERY carefully with the battery disconnected before removing the wire from the ammeter and wrap the end completely with electrical tape for the test. This wire carries FULL battery current.
THEN if the light goes out we can start isolating individual circuits off of that. If it doesn't then I think your car is haunted.
The guy has done all the things (as stated in the first post) that are subsequently suggested for troubleshooting. And I don't think there is an ACC position on a '59 original ignition switch (I wish C1s did have them). There are no underhood or glove box lights on these cars either.
I would (once again) remove ALL of the fuses in the fuse box...if you still have current draw then I would disconnect the lead from the battery to the back of the ammeter. 98% of the car's circuitry goes through that lead. Do this VERY carefully with the battery disconnected before removing the wire from the ammeter and wrap the end completely with electrical tape for the test. This wire carries FULL battery current.
THEN if the light goes out we can start isolating individual circuits off of that. If it doesn't then I think your car is haunted.
11-04-2012, 09:22 AM
#10
Safety Car
With all fuses removed, the following circuits are still powered. All are Red wires of various wire gauge sizes.
-Voltage Regulator Feed
-Clock
-Cig Lighter
-Headlight Switch
-Horn Relay
-Ignition Switch Feed
As Frank said, if you remove the Black feed to the Ammeter, that is main power feed to everything. A high resistance short in the ammeter could be possible.
You already isolated the regulator and clock. The generator is out of the circuit once the red wire is removed from the regulator.
Some other ideas.....
Do the horns work? If disconnected or dead, make sure the horn relay is not stuck on.
With Ign off, check to make sure the Brown ignition wire is 0 volts. It can be tested at the ballast resistor, or at the back of the switch.
There are 2 pink wires at the Ign switch. One feeds the fuel/temp gauges. The other feeds the directional flasher. Test they are off with the key off. Check at the back of the switch.
Remove the harness plug on the light switch to isolate those circuits and the switch. Easier to pull the switch down to do that. Pull the **** out fully, then press the spring button under the switch to remove the ****. Then unscrew the round nut to remove the switch.
The main harness could have a problem also. Isolating as many circuits as possible will help determine if it's the problem.
This is all assuming your battery is holding a charge and not defective.
-Voltage Regulator Feed
-Clock
-Cig Lighter
-Headlight Switch
-Horn Relay
-Ignition Switch Feed
As Frank said, if you remove the Black feed to the Ammeter, that is main power feed to everything. A high resistance short in the ammeter could be possible.
You already isolated the regulator and clock. The generator is out of the circuit once the red wire is removed from the regulator.
Some other ideas.....
Do the horns work? If disconnected or dead, make sure the horn relay is not stuck on.
With Ign off, check to make sure the Brown ignition wire is 0 volts. It can be tested at the ballast resistor, or at the back of the switch.
There are 2 pink wires at the Ign switch. One feeds the fuel/temp gauges. The other feeds the directional flasher. Test they are off with the key off. Check at the back of the switch.
Remove the harness plug on the light switch to isolate those circuits and the switch. Easier to pull the switch down to do that. Pull the **** out fully, then press the spring button under the switch to remove the ****. Then unscrew the round nut to remove the switch.
The main harness could have a problem also. Isolating as many circuits as possible will help determine if it's the problem.
This is all assuming your battery is holding a charge and not defective.
