54greg

Installation into my 56 265 engine. I made a mess of the first one. Any suggestions before I install the second

Pilot Dan

Many of the replacements I have come accross are too tight an initial fit and people try to pound them in and often bend or break them in the process. I like to take a little emery cloth and polish the portion on the tube that goes into the block so it can be lightly tapped in with a soft faced hammer. Pilot Dan

54greg

Thank you

jtranger

Greg, I just did this on my '61. Emery cloth first, then put it in the freezer overnight. Heat up the hole in the block with a heatgun, lube the cold tube and it should go into place with some light persuasion.

54greg

Perfect!

John McGraw

The secret to installing the tube so it is not loose, is to make an installation tool. If you take a pipe nipple about 10" long, and cut half the nipple off longitudinally, for about 4" up the nipple, you will have a tool that will only bear on the flange at the bottom of the that sits on the block, and you can beat the hell out of it with a hammer, without worrying about damaging the tube. I wish I was at home, where I could take a pic of the tool that I made, but my description should suffice.


Regards, John McGraw

54greg

Thanks John.

Size of pipe? 1/2" galvinized seems too big. Maybe 1/2' "red" copper?

John McGraw

My recollection was that it was 3/8, iron pipe, but it may be 1/4".

Measure the outside diameter of the tube, and that will tell you what size to use. Iron pipe is always sized by the ID of the pipe, so a 3/8 nipple will have a 3/8 ID. The tool I made, is a nice tight fit to the OD of the tube.

you will need to grind a slight slope on the end on the half-pipe, so that it will sit flat on top of the lip.

I will try to remember to pull it out of my tool box and take a pic of it tonight.

Regards, John McGraw

54greg

Thanks again