Break bleeding ???
09-16-2012, 10:32 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Break bleeding ???
63 converted to disc brakes front and back. 67 style dual res MC. And an aftermarket
PB booster. All new SS lines. Attempted to bleed the system without any luck. The MC was bench bled before installation. Tring to bleed the old fashion way with a partner at the pedal and me operating the bleeder valves. After making several laps around the car never got firm pedal. Never even got to a point where with the pedal pushed down, it would hold the rear wheels from being able to be turned. I question if the system is moving the right volume, when I open a rear bleeder and the brake pedal is depressed it seams like not very much volume of fluid comes out. It's really just a dribble. Another question is whether the pedal travel is right. At one point we question if the MC was bled right. We attempted to bleed the mc by using the bleeder valves on the side of the mc. We found that if we opened the front bleeder and bled it we got about 2" more pedal travel. But if we then opened the back bleeder or a rear caliper we lost the 2". Also when searching the forum some of the post say the rear calipers have 2 bleeders. Mine have 3. 2 on the outside and 1on the inside. Do I have the wrong calipers? Any help is greatly appreciated.
PB booster. All new SS lines. Attempted to bleed the system without any luck. The MC was bench bled before installation. Tring to bleed the old fashion way with a partner at the pedal and me operating the bleeder valves. After making several laps around the car never got firm pedal. Never even got to a point where with the pedal pushed down, it would hold the rear wheels from being able to be turned. I question if the system is moving the right volume, when I open a rear bleeder and the brake pedal is depressed it seams like not very much volume of fluid comes out. It's really just a dribble. Another question is whether the pedal travel is right. At one point we question if the MC was bled right. We attempted to bleed the mc by using the bleeder valves on the side of the mc. We found that if we opened the front bleeder and bled it we got about 2" more pedal travel. But if we then opened the back bleeder or a rear caliper we lost the 2". Also when searching the forum some of the post say the rear calipers have 2 bleeders. Mine have 3. 2 on the outside and 1on the inside. Do I have the wrong calipers? Any help is greatly appreciated.
09-17-2012, 01:50 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
It takes a long time to get fluid to fill the system. Keep working at it . :thumbsup
09-17-2012, 07:33 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
63 converted to disc brakes front and back. 67 style dual res MC. And an aftermarket
PB booster. All new SS lines. Attempted to bleed the system without any luck. The MC was bench bled before installation. Tring to bleed the old fashion way with a partner at the pedal and me operating the bleeder valves. After making several laps around the car never got firm pedal. Never even got to a point where with the pedal pushed down, it would hold the rear wheels from being able to be turned. I question if the system is moving the right volume, when I open a rear bleeder and the brake pedal is depressed it seams like not very much volume of fluid comes out. It's really just a dribble. Another question is whether the pedal travel is right. At one point we question if the MC was bled right. We attempted to bleed the mc by using the bleeder valves on the side of the mc. We found that if we opened the front bleeder and bled it we got about 2" more pedal travel. But if we then opened the back bleeder or a rear caliper we lost the 2". Also when searching the forum some of the post say the rear calipers have 2 bleeders. Mine have 3. 2 on the outside and 1on the inside. Do I have the wrong calipers? Any help is greatly appreciated.
PB booster. All new SS lines. Attempted to bleed the system without any luck. The MC was bench bled before installation. Tring to bleed the old fashion way with a partner at the pedal and me operating the bleeder valves. After making several laps around the car never got firm pedal. Never even got to a point where with the pedal pushed down, it would hold the rear wheels from being able to be turned. I question if the system is moving the right volume, when I open a rear bleeder and the brake pedal is depressed it seams like not very much volume of fluid comes out. It's really just a dribble. Another question is whether the pedal travel is right. At one point we question if the MC was bled right. We attempted to bleed the mc by using the bleeder valves on the side of the mc. We found that if we opened the front bleeder and bled it we got about 2" more pedal travel. But if we then opened the back bleeder or a rear caliper we lost the 2". Also when searching the forum some of the post say the rear calipers have 2 bleeders. Mine have 3. 2 on the outside and 1on the inside. Do I have the wrong calipers? Any help is greatly appreciated.
As far as I know there should only be 2 bleeders on the rear calipers, if they are stock Corvette units. One on the outside upper and one on the inside upper. Where did you get these calipers???
I have no idea what is going on with the bleeding process and why you would lose peddle. I would recommend that you find someone who has a power bleeder. I tried bleeding my system numerous times by the pump and hold method. It didn't work for me. I finally got a Motive bleeder with the correct MC cover and that worked. Others use the gravity method. Just open up the caliper bleeder and let it set. I have never tried this method. (only problem as I see it with this method is you cannot let the MC run out of fluid or you start over again.)
It really sounds like you do have a mis-matched setup though. Maybe someone else will have gone through the same scenario and can give you ideas.
09-17-2012, 07:47 AM
#4
Supporting Vendor
Andrew
800-442-0335
http://www.muskegonbrake.com
09-17-2012, 08:51 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you guys for the help. Especialy Andrew at Muskegonbrake, who took the time to answer my questions on the phone. It looks like I need to remove the bleeder valve on the outer rear side of the rear calipers and replace it with a plug. And then start over.
09-17-2012, 09:03 AM
#6
Team Owner
Get a Motive pressure bleeder, very good product that will make bleeding brakes a snap.
09-17-2012, 06:37 PM
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,857 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
It's a ten-minute job for one person with a Motive Products power bleeder; takes longer to remove the wheels than it does to bleed the brakes. 
09-17-2012, 10:38 PM
#9
Drifting
I have the same motive bleeder in Johnz's post...the metal stock and large c clamp are must... Otherwise it pushes fluid past the pressure cap. Unfortunate that motive doesn't fix this...they can easily do better.