63splitter

1960 Corvette - left this morning for the Frankenmuth show. Drove 1 hour and stopped for breakfast - everything was fine. Car started right up and drove another 2 hours and stopped for gas. Car just "clicked" and would not turn over. I suspected a drained battery. A guy tried to give me a jump but with the cables connected, it would not try to turn over. Let the cables stay connected for a few minutes, then uncabled them and tried the car again - started perfectly. I drove the other 4 hours and never shut it off - filled the gas with the car running and ate at drive-throughs. I got to Michigan and then shut it off and tried to start it - it started perfectly. Then after a couple of hours went to start it again - nothing. The battery reads 12.67v - it has a generator and voltage regulator setup. I banged the started, the generator, tapped the voltage regulator and still nothing. When I get in the car, the courtesy light lights up, but when I turn the key it goes out - so it's acting like the battery is dead (it's only 2 years old). I tried to jump it again and it won't turn over - not even a clicking noise. Any help would be appreciated - I'm stuck here until I can get it going. Thanks. Rick

Dan Hampton

Have you checked all battery connections? Any corrosion around the terminals that you are not seeing. Did you pull both cable connectors and visually see that the terminals are clean? Have you thought about replacing the battery? Two years means nothing re: battery life. The variability on battery quality is A to Z---regardless of the warranty.

63splitter

Thanks - I did look at the connections to battery and starter and they all look clean, but I'll pull them off and clean them. I think I'll buy another battery only because I'm stuck here and I might as well rule that out.

Could this be the voltage regulator?

Rick

troutster71

Just throwing this out there. Try cleaning the batt cable ends inside where they clamp to the batt posts. Also clean the posts. Pocket knife
or small screwdriver worked for me at 6 below zero years ago.

Good luck, GA

63splitter

I will try your suggestion tomorrow morning - too dark to see now. I'll let you know.

Thanks,

Rick

Hitch

Do you have a battery disconnect installed? I have seen the green **** versions to cause what you are experiencing..

David

65GGvert

If you don't have a battery disconnect, then I'd bet a battery fixed the issue. Probably has a damaged plate internally. As you know, the first step is connections at the starter and battery and ground. AutoZone or one of those can do a load test on the battery for you before you buy.

Westlotorn

If the battery is reading 12.6 volts it is good and fully charged.
Bad connections can keep the fully charged battery from getting to the starter. As noted clean them and scrape them to make sure connections are good.
As you put things back together on the battery a thin swipe of Vaseline on the post and on the cable connection will keep all corrosion away. I don't know how this works but I was taught this trick on Marine Batteries 30 years ago and it works very well.
If it is clicking that is usually weak voltage to the starter, could be weak ground or any weak connection.
Park on a hill so you can start the engine without the starter or push start the car. Use 3rd gear to jump start it. If you use 1st or 2nd it will most likely skid the tire when you pop the clutch, make sure the key is in the run position.
I have seen posts on here about the wire harness where it goes through the firewall.
Some have fixed starting issues by removing the harness on the firewall side and cleaning the connections and re installing. Best of luck, I hope you get er runnin soon.

stingrayl76

Rick,

Let us know in what part of Michigan you're stranded? Lots of Forum members in South East MI area who may be able to give you a hand.

Dave

Westlotorn

A fully charged 12v battery reads 12.6 volts, if you have 12.6 I believe your battery is good.
The amperage available to start the car varies a great deal between 12 and 12.6 volts.
It was indicated he had 12.6 which shows a fully charged battery, he should have plenty of amps to kick it over. I saw a chart once, maybe on this forum that showed the Amps available for a battery with 12v vs one with a full charge at 12.6v, I think you have 75% more starting power when you show 12.6 volts indicating each of the 6 battery cells is making its full 2.1 volts.

stingrayl76

Sounds like you may have a bad ground. Did you check both ends of the battery ground cable?

Pilot Dan

What was the Amp guage reading while you were cruising on the highway at speed (if you can recall)?? Was it at 0 indicating a fully charged battery or + indicating possible weak battery. You can't rule out the voltage regulator either until you attach a volt meter. Pilot Dan

63splitter

Thanks for all the suggestions. First off, I am stranded in Novi Michigan - still 1 1/2 hours from Frankenmuth. Second, going down the highway the ampmeter was reading 0 or slightly below 0. I do not have a battery disconnect on the battery. Once it gets light out, I will start checking all the connections, especially the ground wire. I probably need to start thinkng about where to tow the car to - where I'm at, there are no floor jacks, jack stands, and the only tools there are the ones I brought.

I have a battery tester that will also introduce load on the battery and it is in the "good" zone under load, so I'm really thinking the battery is OK. What still puzzles me is that the courtesy light goes out when I turn the key and the headlights don't come on at all, which DOES make me suspect the battery, even though it reads 12.6V.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks,

Rick

knockbill

try cranking with headlights on, ,, do they dim while trying to crank? if the engine doesn't crank, but the lights dim, its probably the starter, or the battery cable or connection,,, if it just clicks, check the solenoid...if nothing happens, check ignition switch, and its wiring...or neutral safety switch, if the car is an automatic...
if the battery is fully charged, the problem is on teh starting side, not the charging side,,,

good luck, maybe a local mechanic can sort it out quickly for you

stingrayl76

Typical symptoms of a bad ground.

If you have to have it towed, take it to Master Works.
http://www.mwauto.com/contact.php

Frankie the Fink

If you have an original clock then I'd disconnect the power lead for now.

I've seen batteries with a bad cell or internally broken posts act like this. Crank the car with a multimeter across the terminals. If the voltage doesn't dip down to 10-11V then you have a bad connection. If it goes much below that you have a dead/bad battery. If the car starts you should see voltage between 13.8-14.2V if your generator and V/R is working properly.

I'd clean connections and swap in a known good (new) battery.

EVERY classic car should have a battery disconnect on the negative battery terminal; particularly these old fire-prone C1s!

jim lockwood

The symptom you've described is entirely consistent with a poor connection and not at all indicative of a bad battery.

Jim

Jim Dillon

Rick, if you need a place to work on the car I am on the way to Frankenmuth, right off of US 23 and M-59. I have a homeshop with whatever you need and parts stores nearby just in case. Of course if you want to tow it to Master Works it is a few miles the other way but he is top notch.

Also I am heading up to Frankenmuth at 9:00 tomorrow morning with a group from my car club so if you are iffy on going alone you are welcome to join us. I have been chasing a few gremlins myself with the car in my avatar which I am taking tomorrow so misery loves company. PM me if you want my phone number and/or address. Good luck-Jim

MikeM

Yep!

Frankie the Fink

How about that flaky big washer in the starter solenoid that you have to flip over once it's worn down?

Been a while since I've dealt with that so I'm asking if the symptoms are compatible with this problem...