Brake Caliper Question
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Brake Caliper Question
Let's join along with the adventures of a low functioning idiot as he tries to maintain his late father's '65, shall we?
Background: When I got into the car a few months ago (before getting it to Michigan), the brake pedal went to the floor. No problem, I figured that over the time it had sat (~4 years), that was bound to happen.
I checked the master cylinder and all the fluid was gone. No big deal, with the lack of muscle strength my father had when he did it (Lou Gherig's disease), I'm guessing that he either didn't get the lines tightened down enough *or* the calipers themselves are leaking. When I had a failed attempt (long story involving a jack failing to lower the car) to bleed the brakes, the front calipers were leaking the fluid I put into the MC. I know I need to replace the brake shoes as they've been drenched in brake fluid, and I plan on doing that ASAP.
I am not sure if the front calipers were ever replaced - I have a record for "new" rear calipers from VA Vettes (in 2003-2004 ish). I'm sure he rebuilt the front calipers though.
After that long and meandering background: Is there a way to determine if calipers are ss sleeved without pulling them apart (i.e., will the part number on the calipers provide any hints)?
Apologies in advance if this is an easy question. Please bear with me as I'm learning to properly wrench on this thing.
Background: When I got into the car a few months ago (before getting it to Michigan), the brake pedal went to the floor. No problem, I figured that over the time it had sat (~4 years), that was bound to happen.
I checked the master cylinder and all the fluid was gone. No big deal, with the lack of muscle strength my father had when he did it (Lou Gherig's disease), I'm guessing that he either didn't get the lines tightened down enough *or* the calipers themselves are leaking. When I had a failed attempt (long story involving a jack failing to lower the car) to bleed the brakes, the front calipers were leaking the fluid I put into the MC. I know I need to replace the brake shoes as they've been drenched in brake fluid, and I plan on doing that ASAP.
I am not sure if the front calipers were ever replaced - I have a record for "new" rear calipers from VA Vettes (in 2003-2004 ish). I'm sure he rebuilt the front calipers though.
After that long and meandering background: Is there a way to determine if calipers are ss sleeved without pulling them apart (i.e., will the part number on the calipers provide any hints)?
Apologies in advance if this is an easy question. Please bear with me as I'm learning to properly wrench on this thing.
#2
In a word- no. You'll have to disassemble them to verify if they are presently SS sleeved or not. Note that no calipers came from the factory with sleeves, this is an aftermarket thing only.
#3
Le Mans Master
Brakes
There is no way to tell if the calipers have been sleeved unless the vendor left a stamp on the caliper. Most would not. It is very simple to determine if they have been sleeved. Disconnect the brake line, break the two bolts that hold the caliper together, remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mount and remove the caliper. Since you already loosened the bolts holding the caliper together, separate the halfs and remove a seal and piston. You should see a sleeve if so equipped. I am a big fan of O-ring pistons. The whole kit with new pistons cost under $150. I have done about 5 cars with no problems. Jerry
#4
Burning Brakes
A possible way (not 100% positive) would be to see if the calipers numbers on the outside occur later than 1965, would would likely indicate a possible switch out later in the cars life.
So 65 first designs are 546#### or 549####
67 second designs are 545####
72 third designs are 547####
I had the same problem on my 67, and I saw that my calipers were the third design. I pulled them apart to confirm the sleeves, but may lead you in the right direction.
So 65 first designs are 546#### or 549####
67 second designs are 545####
72 third designs are 547####
I had the same problem on my 67, and I saw that my calipers were the third design. I pulled them apart to confirm the sleeves, but may lead you in the right direction.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice, I figured that would be the answer.
I got the front calipers off. I may have an explanation why one of the front calipers was leaking...
You're looking at the outboard side of the left front brake caliper. The pad on that side was soaked, the inboard pad wasn't.
I got the front calipers off. I may have an explanation why one of the front calipers was leaking...
You're looking at the outboard side of the left front brake caliper. The pad on that side was soaked, the inboard pad wasn't.
#6
Safety Car
Let's join along with the adventures of a low functioning idiot as he tries to maintain his late father's '65, shall we?
Background: When I got into the car a few months ago (before getting it to Michigan), the brake pedal went to the floor. No problem, I figured that over the time it had sat (~4 years), that was bound to happen.
I checked the master cylinder and all the fluid was gone. No big deal, with the lack of muscle strength my father had when he did it (Lou Gherig's disease), I'm guessing that he either didn't get the lines tightened down enough *or* the calipers themselves are leaking. When I had a failed attempt (long story involving a jack failing to lower the car) to bleed the brakes, the front calipers were leaking the fluid I put into the MC. I know I need to replace the brake shoes as they've been drenched in brake fluid, and I plan on doing that ASAP.
I am not sure if the front calipers were ever replaced - I have a record for "new" rear calipers from VA Vettes (in 2003-2004 ish). I'm sure he rebuilt the front calipers though.
After that long and meandering background: Is there a way to determine if calipers are ss sleeved without pulling them apart (i.e., will the part number on the calipers provide any hints)?
Apologies in advance if this is an easy question. Please bear with me as I'm learning to properly wrench on this thing.
Background: When I got into the car a few months ago (before getting it to Michigan), the brake pedal went to the floor. No problem, I figured that over the time it had sat (~4 years), that was bound to happen.
I checked the master cylinder and all the fluid was gone. No big deal, with the lack of muscle strength my father had when he did it (Lou Gherig's disease), I'm guessing that he either didn't get the lines tightened down enough *or* the calipers themselves are leaking. When I had a failed attempt (long story involving a jack failing to lower the car) to bleed the brakes, the front calipers were leaking the fluid I put into the MC. I know I need to replace the brake shoes as they've been drenched in brake fluid, and I plan on doing that ASAP.
I am not sure if the front calipers were ever replaced - I have a record for "new" rear calipers from VA Vettes (in 2003-2004 ish). I'm sure he rebuilt the front calipers though.
After that long and meandering background: Is there a way to determine if calipers are ss sleeved without pulling them apart (i.e., will the part number on the calipers provide any hints)?
Apologies in advance if this is an easy question. Please bear with me as I'm learning to properly wrench on this thing.
If you decide to rebuild them, the O-ring conversion kit is the way to go.
#7
Race Director
Thanks for the advice, I figured that would be the answer.
I got the front calipers off. I may have an explanation why one of the front calipers was leaking...
You're looking at the outboard side of the left front brake caliper. The pad on that side was soaked, the inboard pad wasn't.
[
I got the front calipers off. I may have an explanation why one of the front calipers was leaking...
You're looking at the outboard side of the left front brake caliper. The pad on that side was soaked, the inboard pad wasn't.
[
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
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Thanks for the advice, I figured that would be the answer.
I got the front calipers off. I may have an explanation why one of the front calipers was leaking...
You're looking at the outboard side of the left front brake caliper. The pad on that side was soaked, the inboard pad wasn't.
I got the front calipers off. I may have an explanation why one of the front calipers was leaking...
You're looking at the outboard side of the left front brake caliper. The pad on that side was soaked, the inboard pad wasn't.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
At this point I don't see where it makes any difference if the calipers are sleeved our not. Since they are leaking they need to be replaced or rebuilt. If you decide to rebuild them, you'll find out if they are sleeved at that point and if you decide to replace them, there is no sense in taking them apart.
If you decide to rebuild them, the O-ring conversion kit is the way to go.
If you decide to rebuild them, the O-ring conversion kit is the way to go.
Those appear to be 1st-design calipers - note the insulator pads attached to the pistons with phillips screws; chances are that they haven't been sleeved (rebuilders routinely machine out the 1st-design piston guides from the caliper bores and use the 2nd-design pistons in all the calipers).
#12
Le Mans Master
Brakes
First design, no SS inserts. They are getting harder to find. If at all possible, I would see if they could be sleeved without cutting the bottoms out. Jerry
#13
Race Director
they look original to me but just to be sure look at the bottom of the bore just above the fluid passage, see a line all the way around? no = not sleeved, yes = sleeved. they should be #546 castings
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I pulled the rear calipers, and the pistons look different (547 castings on both). I know Dad replaced both rear calipers when he was working on the '65.
Thank you for your help. I know I sound like an idiot, but I have to learn somehow, right?
#15
Race Director
#547 castings were used from 73 to 82, pop a piston out of a rear and compare the front and rear bores, you should see a difference, if the rears are sleeved you should easily be able to clean them up and install o-ring pistons.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks. I'll get that done. I'm thinking I may actually just send (drive) the old calipers to Muskegon Brake to be sleeved. It'll cost just as much to get new...
#18
I like the O-Ring kit (not lip seals). The bores may be servicable as is. Clean them with scotchbrite, then finish with some 1500 grit. If there is no pitting you may be good to go.
Now that you have all the brakes off, you should pull the MC, flush and reseal. Blow the hard lines clean with alcohol and compressed air.
Then service with silicone break fluid.
Now that you have all the brakes off, you should pull the MC, flush and reseal. Blow the hard lines clean with alcohol and compressed air.
Then service with silicone break fluid.
Last edited by ghostrider20; 07-28-2012 at 02:32 PM.
#19
This is exactly the thread I needed to find!
Sorry to hi-jack but I have pretty much the same issue.
From the info I read here, it looks like I have the 3rd design calipers front and back. Like the OP, my pads are soaked and brake fluid pours out around the pistons. Aside from new pads, what do I need to clean this mess up? A lip seal repair kit or an O-ring conversion kit?
Thanks!
I posted pics of what I have in my gallery.
Sorry to hi-jack but I have pretty much the same issue.
From the info I read here, it looks like I have the 3rd design calipers front and back. Like the OP, my pads are soaked and brake fluid pours out around the pistons. Aside from new pads, what do I need to clean this mess up? A lip seal repair kit or an O-ring conversion kit?
Thanks!
I posted pics of what I have in my gallery.