C2MG

I am just about ready to make the purchase of my first C2 but I could use some advise and help from someone who has already done it. I want this car to drive and drive often. Over the last years or two I have been reading and researching and this is what I have discovered.

I want,-1965-1967 coupe because of drivability. Availability of items such as disk breaks and power steering.

-SB 300,350-365hp Is there a big difference btwn 300 and 350hp. Also does not have to be original motor. But i have found that sb with NOM are in a bit rougher of shape. If I plan to drive this car should I try to avoid original numbers matching.

-A/C something I definitely want, should I look for a car with it already installed or go with vintage air after i buy.

-Power steering again should i look for a car that already has it or should I look to install power assist.

-4 or 5 speed and side pipes are a must.

-I recently found a car that I would call a 10 footer. Went to look at it yesterday. Had a 5 speed and NOM 350Ci. I really liked it but, would it be worth waiting, looking more and paying a little more for a car with a sorted out body and all the options I want?

-And when buying I plan on having an expert inspect the car. If anyone else has any tips or advices it would be greatly appreciated as I attempt purchase my first Corvette.

Stingray1967

In terms of the difference between 300 and 350 horse, there are just too many variables. These cars are so old now, the original HP spec is almost meaningless. You'd have to drive the individual car to find out for yourself.

The rear gear will make a big difference also. A 3.07 vs. a 4.11 will make a BIG difference in the "off the line" performance, but you'll pay for it with high RPM while cruising.

If you want air, I would encourage you to consider ADDING it afterwards to whatever car you find. That will allow you to throw a MUCH wider net to find a good car. Otherwise, if you look for ORIGINAL air cars only, there just aren't that many.

XLR8OR

Selecting the options you prefer is certainly important, but even more so is the condition of the frame and bird cage. Check the rear uptake area of the frame, especially the opening where the rear trailing arms attach to the frame, for corrosion. There will always be surface rust, but look for rotted out sections. The bird cage condition is also very important - check for evidence of leaks (surface rust, lots of silicone) around bottom corners of the windshield. Problems with the frame and bird cage usually mean very expensive repairs, so unless you're getting a REALLY good deal these are problems you walk away from.

GeoffM

No matter what car you find make sure you have it inspected by someone who really knows what they are talking about. Parts and repairs to these cars are not cheap and it's real easy to get hurt. Just my 2 cs worth Good luck with you search hope you find a real nice car.

62Jeff

Welcome.

What part of the country are you in?

I have a 65 coupe, power steering and brakes, 350 horse NOM, 4 speed, sidepipes, factory (working) AC, factory knock offs, silver paint, silver interior car that I may be putting up for sale.

dahogan

No, say it aint so Does C2Steve know this?

Frankie the Fink

OMG !

I feel a disturbance in the 'Force' !

thesteve

The best advice I got prior to purchasing mine, was to get the overall nicest, most problem-free car, you can possibly afford.....sweat the details later.

In my case, and in most cases, this will bring you down into the "lowly" 1964 territory.

I can't speak on how much it would be to add sidepipes. A 4 way disc brake conversion is kindof pricey (I found it to run ~$5k, if done "right"), but adding *just* front disc brakes can be pretty cheap. Vintage air would be the same cost regardless of year....etc, etc.

My point is, I traded a few future add-ons for a solid frame/cage, nice interior, good paint, great mechanics....essentially a very nice, driver.

My train of thought was, would I rather spend the money on my own time, optionally down the road on non-necessities, or would I rather spend it on engine problems, frame issues/rust, paint.....???

The drum brakes on the '64 are a lot better than I'd feared, btw.

Just my two cents, and without knowing anything about your budget...

235265283...

I haven't owned a C2 for many years, but when I did, I noticed the following: Especially on coupes, sometimes the shape of the doors is slightly different that the shape of the door opening in the body. So, no matter how much you played with shims and the hinges, there was no way to achieve a near-uniform gap around the doors. And I noted that some C2 coupes were affected more than others in this regard. So, maybe look for this. Also noticed that over the years, GM seems to have steadily improved Corvette body body part fit quality. My C6 looks nearly perfect.

Obviously this isn't as critical as frame rust, etc. But I'm curious, current experts: Am I off-base here, is this a total non-isue? Perhaps it's common to reshape the door a bit during a restoratin? Also (perhaps stupid question), do Corvette body parts like doors and hoods slowly warp or stretch/shrink slightly with age?

daz_au

I have two '64's, one of them has power drums and they work awesome, pull straight and will throw you through the windshield. The other has non power drums and it pulls left, then right, then locks a rear wheel, then fades, i.e they are horrible.

So like everything else it comes down to condition and maintenance, I would not exclude a 64 from your search if it drives and stops awesome. Btw I paid low 20's for the car with the bad brakes and its a 365HP car that is otherwise dynamite to drive, so I dont mind spending some money on the drums or maybe considering a disc conversion.

See and drive as many cars as you can, they are all different. In a way I am underwhelmed with my 300HP car because the engine is dull after stepping out of the 365, not just in power, but also sound and willingness to rev. I quickly became a fan of the high horse 327's.

62Jeff

Yes

C2Steve

Yes. Great car. Great drive. Just not the right time for me to buy.

Dan Hampton

Make sure you contact someone who can do an inspection for you on the BC and frame. Also, get the car on a hoist and check everything in the rear suspension area--from wheel bearings, half shaft end play, condition of all the bushings, measure shock travel, look for leaks in the area of the pinion seal and yokes, as well as the diff itself.

If you have to address anything that has to do with the differential, you will be spending either a lot of money or a lot of time or both in correcting these issues. They are not as straightforward as a C1. Having the rear wheel bearings done correctly on a C2 by an outside source is expensive, in and of itself.

Hitch

My best advice would be to have a local midyear guy along with you to guide you...

dahogan

1.Not really. I own a # matching original and drive it when ever I want. However,if I had a Bloomington Gold or a Top Flight I wouldnt, but I wouldnt have bought it either. I dont drive mine in snow or rain, but I wouldnt drive a nice looking NOM in the snow or rain either.

2. If you buy a NOM I think you can add all the options you want. The answer is no for a BG or a TF. If you buy a #matching original but dont plan on having the car judged or it would be too costly to achieve those awards, I would add a/c and/or sidepipes....its your car. Others may disagree.

C2MG

Thank you everyone who has replied you advice is helping a lot.