Fixing this C2 nose?
02-21-2012, 01:59 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Fixing this C2 nose?
I saw this '66 for sale, but noticed how the headlights don't line up on the outer edges. I figure it must have taken a shot to the nose, I'm guessing the nose piece and rear support have to be replaced, how big a job is this $?
Paul
Paul
02-21-2012, 02:25 PM
#2
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I wouldn't even think of buying that car unless somebody gave me a real good idea what it would take to fix it. I will guess and say it would take a new front end on it to fix it right. Then again, it may just be the headlight panels are bonded in too low, but I'm not a bodyman.
On the other hand, some people wouldn't notice the mismatch and poor fit until somebody pointed it out to them.
On the other hand, some people wouldn't notice the mismatch and poor fit until somebody pointed it out to them.
Last edited by MikeM; 02-21-2012 at 02:27 PM.
02-21-2012, 02:30 PM
#3
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there are 2 headlight support rods that often times can be adjusted to fix this problem. I would not be a bit surprised to find them both missing on this car.
02-21-2012, 02:38 PM
#4
Race Director
I'd be checking to see if it's already had a new front clip.
Take a look at the inside of the front fender wells - see if there are bonding strips, or if it's a one piece front end. Look at the drip chanel/hood opening surround, and see if is continuous, or if it has ben spliced at some point.
Many of the midyears I've inspected have had similar headlight cover alignment problems, and it has almost always been due to front clip repairs and/or replacement with aftermarket parts that didn't quite line up - or body men who didn't take the time to do a trail fitting first.
Good luck!
Take a look at the inside of the front fender wells - see if there are bonding strips, or if it's a one piece front end. Look at the drip chanel/hood opening surround, and see if is continuous, or if it has ben spliced at some point.
Many of the midyears I've inspected have had similar headlight cover alignment problems, and it has almost always been due to front clip repairs and/or replacement with aftermarket parts that didn't quite line up - or body men who didn't take the time to do a trail fitting first.
Good luck!
02-21-2012, 03:26 PM
#5
(Assuming this is not a hit) I can't see the tops of those buckets in the picture posted but it looks like its a misalignment on the outboard hinges. If you physically move up the outer support pivots on both units, will the top of the light bucket be above the hood?
If so, the you may be able to adjust the Y yoke to allow the bucket to tip more and correct both problems. The outer pivots need to be pushed in and up, and possibly, the adjust on the Y bracket tightened, so the stow position of the light is lower. Hate to say this but it almost looks like the left and right light buckets are reversed when you look at the lines of the car
If so, the you may be able to adjust the Y yoke to allow the bucket to tip more and correct both problems. The outer pivots need to be pushed in and up, and possibly, the adjust on the Y bracket tightened, so the stow position of the light is lower. Hate to say this but it almost looks like the left and right light buckets are reversed when you look at the lines of the car
Last edited by TC233; 02-21-2012 at 03:35 PM.
02-21-2012, 03:35 PM
#6
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that wont fix the bumpers
02-21-2012, 04:10 PM
#7
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02-21-2012, 04:17 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
If you add 3000 dollars you get a front end with bonding strips just as the car left the factory
Does it look like the fenders are sitting higher than the middle piece between the headlights?
I am sure that a adjustment of the headlights will help
Does it look like the fenders are sitting higher than the middle piece between the headlights?
I am sure that a adjustment of the headlights will help
I'd be checking to see if it's already had a new front clip.
Take a look at the inside of the front fender wells - see if there are bonding strips, or if it's a one piece front end. Look at the drip chanel/hood opening surround, and see if is continuous, or if it has ben spliced at some point.
Many of the midyears I've inspected have had similar headlight cover alignment problems, and it has almost always been due to front clip repairs and/or replacement with aftermarket parts that didn't quite line up - or body men who didn't take the time to do a trail fitting first.
Good luck!
Take a look at the inside of the front fender wells - see if there are bonding strips, or if it's a one piece front end. Look at the drip chanel/hood opening surround, and see if is continuous, or if it has ben spliced at some point.
Many of the midyears I've inspected have had similar headlight cover alignment problems, and it has almost always been due to front clip repairs and/or replacement with aftermarket parts that didn't quite line up - or body men who didn't take the time to do a trail fitting first.
Good luck!
02-21-2012, 04:21 PM
#9
Safety Car
Interesting that both L and R outer bucket ends are both 'offset' from the body line break edge fairly equally while the nose looks to droop. . .. The longitudinal gap between the bottom of the grill and the lower valence looks cattywampus, as well.
02-21-2012, 04:23 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
When looking at the picture the headlights is sitting to high towards each front wheel. That must be possible to adjust
02-21-2012, 04:28 PM
#11
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Fitting the headlight buckets with a fixed opening is like trying to fit a door to a bad body opening. You gotta' "give some to get some".
Somebody has already "got" all you're gonna' "get" out of the headlight adjustment in my opinion.
Somebody has already "got" all you're gonna' "get" out of the headlight adjustment in my opinion.
Last edited by MikeM; 02-21-2012 at 05:52 PM.
02-21-2012, 05:32 PM
#13
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02-21-2012, 06:13 PM
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
02-21-2012, 06:36 PM
#16
I'd say, looking at this, there are several issues.
Look at the corners of the headlights at (A & B). It looks like they are high, meaning something is all out of whack trying to make things fit that don't. If you look carefully, it looks like the center section is high in the middle and droops at the ends.
However, to get the front to be so low on the gap (C), it is not being held up right and has twisted down and forward. It could be they have the wrong rods in there to support the headlights or they put the fenders on with too much bonding agent between surround panel and inner fenders, which could be why the fender is high with respect to the hood being low (H).
Notice the gap at (C) is much less than at (D&E) like the nose is drooping.
The headlights look right, as they are in line from the center section, but the headlights and center hasn't been aligned with the outer fenders (F & G).
If you notice, the waist line is sharp on the nose and headlights, but is rounded on the fender corners. A body person could have simply sanded and shaped the corners wrong, but I doubt that is all.
You'd have to see it underneath and all, but I bet you could put in the right headlight support rods, check that there are shims under the radiator core support (it could be mounted directly to the frame, being too low to hold the nose up), and be sure there isn't too much bonding between fenders and inner fenders.
With the nose in the right spot, then the headlights would probably adjust enough to bring it back.
What would it cost?
Don't know, but I bet a good body shop would have at least 40 hours in this if they are sharp about what is causing it. And that is if they can pull it off without damaging the paint, in which case you need to add in cost for paint.
Look at the corners of the headlights at (A & B). It looks like they are high, meaning something is all out of whack trying to make things fit that don't. If you look carefully, it looks like the center section is high in the middle and droops at the ends.
However, to get the front to be so low on the gap (C), it is not being held up right and has twisted down and forward. It could be they have the wrong rods in there to support the headlights or they put the fenders on with too much bonding agent between surround panel and inner fenders, which could be why the fender is high with respect to the hood being low (H).
Notice the gap at (C) is much less than at (D&E) like the nose is drooping.
The headlights look right, as they are in line from the center section, but the headlights and center hasn't been aligned with the outer fenders (F & G).
If you notice, the waist line is sharp on the nose and headlights, but is rounded on the fender corners. A body person could have simply sanded and shaped the corners wrong, but I doubt that is all.
You'd have to see it underneath and all, but I bet you could put in the right headlight support rods, check that there are shims under the radiator core support (it could be mounted directly to the frame, being too low to hold the nose up), and be sure there isn't too much bonding between fenders and inner fenders.
With the nose in the right spot, then the headlights would probably adjust enough to bring it back.
What would it cost?
Don't know, but I bet a good body shop would have at least 40 hours in this if they are sharp about what is causing it. And that is if they can pull it off without damaging the paint, in which case you need to add in cost for paint.
02-21-2012, 06:59 PM
#19
This '66 is definitely one of those "Daddy I'm not a virgin anymore" Vette bodies. It is a typical misaligned front headlamps/front panels from a poorly done repair with one of two scenarios. Front panels replaced improperly and could include surround panel (one piece or sections), tie bar and front header (and/or more); or a collision resulting in a bent front tie bar and then an ensuing "patch job".
If it were mine, for starters it would get a new one piece surround (about 28 hrs labor R&R-Motor's or Mitchell); new tie bar; new front header panel; new support rod brackets from rad suppport to headlamp brackets; and most likely the front lower fenders (6.9 hrs each to R&R). And maybe more is needed when stripped. Plus parts costs, materials, additional disassembly, paint, etc, etc.
Over 40 years ago, I learned that if you bond the tie bar on the one piece replacement OEM surround panel (like the replacement OEM '68-'82 panels) off the car and using new or undamaged brackets with the rest of the components straight, it was a lot easier lining up headlamps properly when bonding the rest of those numerous pieces needed the make these Vette "whole" again with OEM parts.
If it were mine, for starters it would get a new one piece surround (about 28 hrs labor R&R-Motor's or Mitchell); new tie bar; new front header panel; new support rod brackets from rad suppport to headlamp brackets; and most likely the front lower fenders (6.9 hrs each to R&R). And maybe more is needed when stripped. Plus parts costs, materials, additional disassembly, paint, etc, etc.
Over 40 years ago, I learned that if you bond the tie bar on the one piece replacement OEM surround panel (like the replacement OEM '68-'82 panels) off the car and using new or undamaged brackets with the rest of the components straight, it was a lot easier lining up headlamps properly when bonding the rest of those numerous pieces needed the make these Vette "whole" again with OEM parts.
Last edited by Keith Carlson; 02-21-2012 at 07:01 PM.
