Body dollie & lifting jig complete
#1
Body dollie & lifting jig complete
Just finished my body dollie for my 65 vert.
Made some modifications to plans I found on this Forum. I eliminated the bottom cross piece on each end so I could use a creeper to get under the body better, and eliminated the top piece on each end so I have better access to clean the bottom of the body.
Also made a jig for the lift sling. The jig serves two purposes: it shortens up the straps so I don't need as much headroom during the lift and it holds the straps out away from the body.
Used some bar stock and bolts to clamp the sling lift eye to the 2 x 4s.
Notched the ends of the 2 x 4s to keep the straps in place.
Now all I have to do is get the last 2 body bolts out. Yes, you guessed it, they are the #4 body bolts! I have a sponge on top of the captured nuts soaked with ATF & acetone. Everyday I squeeze the sponge and hit the bolt with an inpact forwards and backwards. Been repeating that for about a week with no luck yet. I don't want to break these bolts because they look like a real pain to fix if I do.
Appreciate any comments.
Made some modifications to plans I found on this Forum. I eliminated the bottom cross piece on each end so I could use a creeper to get under the body better, and eliminated the top piece on each end so I have better access to clean the bottom of the body.
Also made a jig for the lift sling. The jig serves two purposes: it shortens up the straps so I don't need as much headroom during the lift and it holds the straps out away from the body.
Used some bar stock and bolts to clamp the sling lift eye to the 2 x 4s.
Notched the ends of the 2 x 4s to keep the straps in place.
Now all I have to do is get the last 2 body bolts out. Yes, you guessed it, they are the #4 body bolts! I have a sponge on top of the captured nuts soaked with ATF & acetone. Everyday I squeeze the sponge and hit the bolt with an inpact forwards and backwards. Been repeating that for about a week with no luck yet. I don't want to break these bolts because they look like a real pain to fix if I do.
Appreciate any comments.
Last edited by vettjam; 02-03-2012 at 03:40 PM.
#2
Racer
Body Lift
Your lift design looks way too weak to me. The bare body will cause those two x fours to snap in heart beat. I am a 40 year mechanical engineer. I made a lift using two x two x .125 (1/8") steel square tubing and that bows a bit when lifting a bare body. I am certain the two x fours are going to snap. Just trying to save you from yourself. Thanks
#3
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Dennis
#5
Le Mans Master
[QUOTE=mrichard;1579912441]Your lift design looks way too weak to me. The bare body will cause those two x fours to snap in heart beat. I am a 40 year mechanical engineer. I made a lift using two x two x .125 (1/8") steel square tubing and that bows a bit when lifting a bare body. I am certain the two x fours are going to snap. Just trying to save you from yourself. Thanks[/QUOTE
That's not going to do it. The dolly needs something for the rear to be supported with as well. Not just the middle. Also, you don't want your dolly too tall IF you plan to paint the car on the dolly, as some do.
If the legs on your cheery picker do not extend any further, you may end up tipping the unit before the body lifts from the frame.
The strap hooks need to be as far forward and backward as the rocker metal will allow.
That's not going to do it. The dolly needs something for the rear to be supported with as well. Not just the middle. Also, you don't want your dolly too tall IF you plan to paint the car on the dolly, as some do.
If the legs on your cheery picker do not extend any further, you may end up tipping the unit before the body lifts from the frame.
The strap hooks need to be as far forward and backward as the rocker metal will allow.
Last edited by Vette Daddy; 02-03-2012 at 04:13 PM.
#6
Melting Slicks
I built this. You need two guys to use it. One to raise the lift and the other to steady the body. I put a loop on the front so I could use a rachet tie down to hold front end up.
#7
Drifting
I have personally completed three C-1 body off restorations on a similar 2x4 frame base as yours with no problems. Just make sure your joints, and bracings are tight & secure. Also see hammer marks in the wood, so it was nailed... ah, decking screws are much more secure, but to each his own!
rustylugnuts
rustylugnuts
Last edited by rustylugnuts; 02-03-2012 at 08:23 PM.
#9
Melting Slicks
ITs made from 1 1/2 x 3 tubing 1/16 wall with 1 1/2 round tubing welded to the ends with flat slugs on the end caps to keep the straps from sliding off. I actually had this stuff laying around. I like to keep a good stock of tubing and steel around for projects. Hope this helps.
#10
Vette Daddy,
After I get the body on the dollie I plan to support the front and the rear with made to fit kickers down to the bottom of the body dollie. I have seen at least one example on the Forum of the rear being supported that way. Don't know why it would not work for the front also.
Thanks for your input. I am learning as I go.
After I get the body on the dollie I plan to support the front and the rear with made to fit kickers down to the bottom of the body dollie. I have seen at least one example on the Forum of the rear being supported that way. Don't know why it would not work for the front also.
Thanks for your input. I am learning as I go.
#12
Race Director
I agree with the others about the lifting jig. Mine from many years ago was crude but sturdy - landscape timbers.
#14
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Well done, but seeing those hammer marks, maybe you should stick to mechanics!
#16
Melting Slicks
#18
Instructor
I am always amazed at our backyard ingenuity.....some good, some....well maybe should be rethought....no offense but would not trust the 2X4s to support my body. Here is what I did, used 3 four foot sections of 1 1/2 in square tubing and a hoist from Harbor Freight. One man operation, but once the lift was under full weight of body it did flex some......could not imagine the 2x4s able to withstand the weight.