mickatbp

wmf62, why did you swap the main brake line from the right side to the left side ...... was it simply so that you could go from the master cylinder straight back without having to go over the front cross member where the original line went? Hadn't even thought of this ........ I was just wondering how I was going to make the two lines look neat over the front crossmember. Good work...........now I'll have to weld a bracket on the left rail of my nicely restored chassis.............hmmmm!

wmf62

Mick

some of the dual mc kits offer complete pre-bent lines to go across the front, but it's not that difficult to bend one's own tubing... and, having a new IFS front suspension made the ready-made lines a moot point....

you're right, it seemed far easier, when i did the dual mc conversion, to run the new rear line down the driver's side than to run a new additional line for the rear all the way around the front in order to tie into the existing rear line (which was 40+ years old anyway... ).. i just capped off the old line (rather than removing it...) and plugged the hole in the fitting where the line split for the right front brake and the rear line.
Bill









the short 'bubba' piece is just because i didn't want to make another lonnnnng line







the frame to axle hose bracket on the axle is the one that was on the passenger side. ground it off and welded it on the drivers side. the others were just made from flat stock and welded in place as needed.

mickatbp

Bill,
Thanks for the explanation and all the fantastic photos
Mick

wmf62

from the mc:







Bill

mickatbp

Just put my right rear wheel on and rotated the wheel.......guess what.............the wheel rubs against the caliper in one spot.............pain in the **** I know..............may need to redesign the brackets slightly and bring the caliper in closer to the axle housing. Brackets were dirt cheap to get made so am thinking may make some minor design changes and get them remade. I also noticed that part of the face of the pad does not touch the disc so will hopefully fix this problem to ............... I'm only talking about 2-3mm (<1/4") adjustment.

wmf62

assuming the original brackets you had were the same as mine... if you bolt them together, at least temporarily, as i did; you should be able to make a pattern that will work from them.

rotated one bolt hole, before trimming portion of one that projects past inner edge of the other bracket


after trimming


Bill

Viking427

Mick,
What master cylinder are you using & what did you have to modify to make it fit/work ? Remote reservoir I assume, but I see no reservoir hooked to it.

mickatbp

Viking 427,
Sorry not my photos above, you need to talk to Bill (wmf62) regarding those photos of the engine bay. I'm no where near that far along, I have got the dual master cylinder and proportioning valve that came with the kit but it will be sitting in its box for some time to come. I'm thinking what you can see is the proportioning valve which has been placed remotely......hence no visible reservoir.

Seems to be for meat least that work+work+work+family+family+family+dist ractions=not much time for Corvette Resto .........but slow and steady as she goes..........any progress is better than no progress.........even if it is at a snail's pace!!

Have a good Christmas and sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Mick

Plasticman

Yep, that is wmf62's m/c that I modified for Bill to fit on his 62. Uses a Mopar dual m/c (that I posted about a while ago), but essentially eliminates the ugly extension tube that most other dual m/c kits use. It has an integral standard dual chamber reservoir (that is hard to see in that picture, but you can see it spanning the space between the 2 side ports).

Plasticman

wmf62

looking from the top





Bill

mickatbp

Nice Bill, what's the part number on that master cylinder and what model year mopar is it originally from?

wmf62

Mick
try this link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-for-a-c1.html

and this

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-cylinder.html

Bill

Viking427

.. thanks guys. Im aware of the Mopar MC retrofit, but it looked alien from below in that pic and I didnt recognize it, thought there was a new gunslinger in town

wmf62

in a way there is, SOMEONE is now making a a dual mastercylinder that looks like the original C1 mastercylinder casting. don't remember who...
Bill

Viking427

Yeah, that would be ABS Power Brake's ambitious "Dual Port Master Cylinder" for C1s that never materialized, They said last week they eventually came to the realization they couldnt engineer the dual piston plunger and porting needed for it to work. Still p/n 81103 on page 56 of thier catalog though ..2 years later

wmf62

that's interesting... i wouldn't think there should be anything special to a casting that couldn't be ported like any other dual mastercylinder.
Bill

mickatbp

Okay, All is well and have now got the rear discs fitted and the wheels on with no rubbing between the rim and caliper (and I mean it was only the slightest touch - rim still spun) and I didn't want to grind anything off the caliper. Have good clearance now, at least a couple of millimetres (1/16 of an inch) .... I had the axle bracket remanufactured (brought the holes closer together with a slight degree change) this also fixed another problem as I noticed not all of the pad was contacting the disc on the original or first remanufacture brackets ... the outer edge was riding above the disc .... now its about a millimetre in from the outer diameter of the disc. Haven' welded the hydraulic brake line tabs on the axle housing yet or routed the hard hydraulic brake lines .... can't rush these things .... full time job andfamily and all.

I traced the modified brackets (axle bracket and caliper bracket) so if you want to give it a go and modify these yourself or get some one to make / remanufacture for you send me your email address and I'll scan and send back to you as soon as I get a chance. Very happy with the end result!

mickatbp

New question re. the front disc conversion ................. how long does the flexible brake lines need to be to ensure full wheel movement while turning to full lock without stretching or fouling the flex brake line. (assuming the original brake line mount point on the chassis is used)?

wmf62

Mick
email and pix sent
Bill

mickatbp

Finally got a chance to get back to it (work got in the way) and I've been redoing my hard brake lines on my 60 C1.

Firstly; I've noticed that the main line from the master cylinder to the first brake block (left front) and the line across the front cross member to the second brake block (right front) look to be 1/4 inch where as the remainder look to be 3/16; I have used 3/16 for all of my brake lines - remember this it is now a dual brake line system due to discs all round. I've used 'mopar' brake blocks as they have a dual line brake block and it looks very neat as well as 'mopar' break line clips for across the front cross member as I now have two lines there (very neat - again). I don't assume this smaller line diameter will cause braking / hydraulic pressure problems - but worth asking?? Pressure is pressure!!!

Secondly, I've noticed that the brake line over the rear axle (depending on which photo you refer to is routed in a number of different ways. It can either go directly over the top of the centre from the left side to the T-block (on the right of the axle) or it goes around the back and through the clip. My understanding is that this rear clip was for the posi vent line but some photos show the brake line through this rear clip. Mine is a non-posi rear axle (at the moment - but never say never), perhaps that is the determining factor for this rear brake line location ..........thoughts please??? I know this is a cosmetic question and not a function question ....but!!