Question on Differential Removal
04-18-2011, 01:39 PM
#1
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Question on Differential Removal
I've been digging through the archives and haven't found an answer....when removing the rear differential, do I need to completely remove the drive shaft? Or do I just need to undo the rear u-joint (of the drive shaft) at the differential housing?
04-18-2011, 01:44 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
It is best to remove the driveshaft, it will give you more room to work and it comes out easy enough once you have disconnected it from the rear. Be sure to put some tape or a heavy rubber band around the U joint cups so they don't fall off. 
Pilot Dan
Pilot Dan
04-18-2011, 02:19 PM
#3
Race Director
If you don't need to I don't know why you'd have to... Unbolt it from the differential flange and let it lay on the frame there. It makes removing the snubber bolt easier if it's not there but not mandatory..
Dave
Dave
04-18-2011, 05:50 PM
#4
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Thanks guys, I'd really prefer not to have to undo both u joints on the drive shaft. (I'm lazy that way.) I was also thinking, if I needed it, I could gain a little extra room (1/2" or so) by sliding the transmission yoke into the transmission.
Keep any tips coming. I'll probably undo the half-shafts tonight, the strut rods, the tongue on the differential and the rear u-joint on the drive shaft.
I blew the differential auto-crossing this weekend. It probably doesn't help to have 315-35-17 DOT race tires with a hopped up small block....
Cris
Keep any tips coming. I'll probably undo the half-shafts tonight, the strut rods, the tongue on the differential and the rear u-joint on the drive shaft.
I blew the differential auto-crossing this weekend. It probably doesn't help to have 315-35-17 DOT race tires with a hopped up small block....
Cris
04-19-2011, 10:31 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Not meaning to hi-jack this thread but when you replace the differential what are the procedures to set the rear tires back where they are straight up and down and not leaning to far in or out. Is this something that can be done at home or do you have to take it back to the alignment shop? Thanks
04-19-2011, 10:53 AM
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Not meaning to hi-jack this thread but when you replace the differential what are the procedures to set the rear tires back where they are straight up and down and not leaning to far in or out. Is this something that can be done at home or do you have to take it back to the alignment shop? Thanks
04-19-2011, 11:04 AM
#7
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64 Corvette,
There are 2 cam bolts which your strut rods bolt up to towards the center of the car at the rear end. Clean off the crud from the cam bolt face as well as the bracket face surrounding it. Scribe a mark on the cam as well as the bracket to bring the rear alignment to where it was before you unbolted it.
Here's a pic of the cam assembly I purchased from LICS which I need to install in my '5.
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
There are 2 cam bolts which your strut rods bolt up to towards the center of the car at the rear end. Clean off the crud from the cam bolt face as well as the bracket face surrounding it. Scribe a mark on the cam as well as the bracket to bring the rear alignment to where it was before you unbolted it.
Here's a pic of the cam assembly I purchased from LICS which I need to install in my '5.
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
04-19-2011, 04:12 PM
#9
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Follow Up on Differential Removal
I pulled the differential today. I did not have to remove the drive shaft, though some creative mechanic'ing was needed to remove the bolt that holds the tongue of the differential to the frame. I can see why someone would opt to remove the drive shaft. Though even with the drive shaft removed, this bolt would be tough to get to.
I could get a 3/4" socket on the backside nut, but there was not room for my 3/8" ratchet. I was unable to get any kind of wrench on the nut. (My situation might be a little different because I have a solid mount here.) I ended up putting a short length of 3/8" square stock into the back of the socket and holding that with a wrench.
This is my first time dropping the differential and I really didn't like the process of prying off the crossmember!
I could get a 3/4" socket on the backside nut, but there was not room for my 3/8" ratchet. I was unable to get any kind of wrench on the nut. (My situation might be a little different because I have a solid mount here.) I ended up putting a short length of 3/8" square stock into the back of the socket and holding that with a wrench.
This is my first time dropping the differential and I really didn't like the process of prying off the crossmember!
04-19-2011, 06:36 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
I pulled the differential today. I did not have to remove the drive shaft, though some creative mechanic'ing was needed to remove the bolt that holds the tongue of the differential to the frame. I can see why someone would opt to remove the drive shaft. Though even with the drive shaft removed, this bolt would be tough to get to.
I could get a 3/4" socket on the backside nut, but there was not room for my 3/8" ratchet. I was unable to get any kind of wrench on the nut. (My situation might be a little different because I have a solid mount here.) I ended up putting a short length of 3/8" square stock into the back of the socket and holding that with a wrench.
This is my first time dropping the differential and I really didn't like the process of prying off the crossmember!
I could get a 3/4" socket on the backside nut, but there was not room for my 3/8" ratchet. I was unable to get any kind of wrench on the nut. (My situation might be a little different because I have a solid mount here.) I ended up putting a short length of 3/8" square stock into the back of the socket and holding that with a wrench.
This is my first time dropping the differential and I really didn't like the process of prying off the crossmember!
Unless you need to remove the front mounting bracket to replace the bushing, why bother? Just remove the two (or four) bolts that hold the bracket to the differential.
Not meaning to hi-jack this thread but when you replace the differential what are the procedures to set the rear tires back where they are straight up and down and not leaning to far in or out. Is this something that can be done at home or do you have to take it back to the alignment shop? Thanks
I think a lot of you are doing far more work than you need to. We used to drop the rear in 30 minutes in the race car.
Disconnect battery.
Put on jack stands.
Remove spare tire carrier.
Slide a floor jack under the leaf spring end, using ViseGrips or c-clamp to provide a stop so it doesn't slide. Lift slightly, remove the spring bolt to trailing arm from spring, lower spring. Repeat on other side.
Unbolt the inner u-joints. Caps (4) are much faster than u-bolts.
Pull the top of the tires out to get the u-joints/halfshafts to drop out of the rear end stub shafts. Rotating the tires can help the u-joints slide out. Tape caps to be sure they don't fall off and pull shafts away for clearance. You can hold them with a bungee if you need.
Unbolt the propeller shaft u-joint, shove the driveshaft forward.
Remove the two or four bolts holding the bracket to the nose of the rear end.
Unbolt the strut rod bracket (4) and pull down the bracket.
Slide the floor jack under the rear end and raise to just touch the rear end or about a half inch to inch below.
Unbolt the cross member (2) and pry the ends off the sombrero cups with the longest pry bar you can find. Something 5 foot or longer is best. You may have to lower the jack slightly during this as you want the rear end to hang slightly to assist the crossmember coming off the frame.
Lower the jack slowly, while moving back and pulling the rear end out of the front mounting bracket. It helps to have a helper steady the rear end so it doesn't fall off the jack.
Reverse to reinstall. Since you didn't touch any alignment settings, it should still be aligned when you drive away.
04-19-2011, 07:52 PM
#11
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Unless you need to remove the front mounting bracket to replace the bushing, why bother? Just remove the two (or four) bolts that hold the bracket to the differential.
If you haven't adjusted anything, or loosened the strut rods, then it will all go back into place when weight is on the wheels again.
I think a lot of you are doing far more work than you need to. We used to drop the rear in 30 minutes in the race car.
Disconnect battery.
Put on jack stands.
Remove spare tire carrier.
Slide a floor jack under the leaf spring end, using ViseGrips or c-clamp to provide a stop so it doesn't slide. Lift slightly, remove the spring bolt to trailing arm from spring, lower spring. Repeat on other side.
Unbolt the inner u-joints. Caps (4) are much faster than u-bolts.
Pull the top of the tires out to get the u-joints/halfshafts to drop out of the rear end stub shafts. Rotating the tires can help the u-joints slide out. Tape caps to be sure they don't fall off and pull shafts away for clearance. You can hold them with a bungee if you need.
Unbolt the propeller shaft u-joint, shove the driveshaft forward.
Remove the two or four bolts holding the bracket to the nose of the rear end.
Unbolt the strut rod bracket (4) and pull down the bracket.
Slide the floor jack under the rear end and raise to just touch the rear end or about a half inch to inch below.
Unbolt the cross member (2) and pry the ends off the sombrero cups with the longest pry bar you can find. Something 5 foot or longer is best. You may have to lower the jack slightly during this as you want the rear end to hang slightly to assist the crossmember coming off the frame.
Lower the jack slowly, while moving back and pulling the rear end out of the front mounting bracket. It helps to have a helper steady the rear end so it doesn't fall off the jack.
Reverse to reinstall. Since you didn't touch any alignment settings, it should still be aligned when you drive away.
If you haven't adjusted anything, or loosened the strut rods, then it will all go back into place when weight is on the wheels again.
I think a lot of you are doing far more work than you need to. We used to drop the rear in 30 minutes in the race car.
Disconnect battery.
Put on jack stands.
Remove spare tire carrier.
Slide a floor jack under the leaf spring end, using ViseGrips or c-clamp to provide a stop so it doesn't slide. Lift slightly, remove the spring bolt to trailing arm from spring, lower spring. Repeat on other side.
Unbolt the inner u-joints. Caps (4) are much faster than u-bolts.
Pull the top of the tires out to get the u-joints/halfshafts to drop out of the rear end stub shafts. Rotating the tires can help the u-joints slide out. Tape caps to be sure they don't fall off and pull shafts away for clearance. You can hold them with a bungee if you need.
Unbolt the propeller shaft u-joint, shove the driveshaft forward.
Remove the two or four bolts holding the bracket to the nose of the rear end.
Unbolt the strut rod bracket (4) and pull down the bracket.
Slide the floor jack under the rear end and raise to just touch the rear end or about a half inch to inch below.
Unbolt the cross member (2) and pry the ends off the sombrero cups with the longest pry bar you can find. Something 5 foot or longer is best. You may have to lower the jack slightly during this as you want the rear end to hang slightly to assist the crossmember coming off the frame.
Lower the jack slowly, while moving back and pulling the rear end out of the front mounting bracket. It helps to have a helper steady the rear end so it doesn't fall off the jack.
Reverse to reinstall. Since you didn't touch any alignment settings, it should still be aligned when you drive away.
Standard race car procedure was to poke a couple of holes in the 'glass to allow the bolts to be withdrawn. (Also poking some holes in the rear compartment to enable the unbolting of the differential without dropping the crossmember was a common "improvement").
04-19-2011, 11:15 PM
#12
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Nassau's got it.
Those bolts on the tongue bracket of the differential can't be removed with the diff in place. They hit the fiberglass wells behind the seats. I looked pretty hard at that when I was pulling things.
I've heard of the racer trick of cutting holes to get access to the differential bolts on the crossmember, but never for the bolts on the tongue bracket!
Otherwise, Procrastination Racing's procedure is pretty much what I used, though I did undo the strut rods from their bracket to get them completely out of the way.
Cris
Those bolts on the tongue bracket of the differential can't be removed with the diff in place. They hit the fiberglass wells behind the seats. I looked pretty hard at that when I was pulling things.
I've heard of the racer trick of cutting holes to get access to the differential bolts on the crossmember, but never for the bolts on the tongue bracket!
Otherwise, Procrastination Racing's procedure is pretty much what I used, though I did undo the strut rods from their bracket to get them completely out of the way.
Cris
05-10-2011, 02:57 PM
#13
Safety Car
Unless you need to remove the front mounting bracket to replace the bushing, why bother? Just remove the two (or four) bolts that hold the bracket to the differential.
If you haven't adjusted anything, or loosened the strut rods, then it will all go back into place when weight is on the wheels again.
I think a lot of you are doing far more work than you need to. We used to drop the rear in 30 minutes in the race car.
Disconnect battery.
Put on jack stands.
Remove spare tire carrier.
Slide a floor jack under the leaf spring end, using ViseGrips or c-clamp to provide a stop so it doesn't slide. Lift slightly, remove the spring bolt to trailing arm from spring, lower spring. Repeat on other side.
Unbolt the inner u-joints. Caps (4) are much faster than u-bolts.
Pull the top of the tires out to get the u-joints/halfshafts to drop out of the rear end stub shafts. Rotating the tires can help the u-joints slide out. Tape caps to be sure they don't fall off and pull shafts away for clearance. You can hold them with a bungee if you need.
Unbolt the propeller shaft u-joint, shove the driveshaft forward.
Remove the two or four bolts holding the bracket to the nose of the rear end.
Unbolt the strut rod bracket (4) and pull down the bracket.
Slide the floor jack under the rear end and raise to just touch the rear end or about a half inch to inch below.
Unbolt the cross member (2) and pry the ends off the sombrero cups with the longest pry bar you can find. Something 5 foot or longer is best. You may have to lower the jack slightly during this as you want the rear end to hang slightly to assist the crossmember coming off the frame.
Lower the jack slowly, while moving back and pulling the rear end out of the front mounting bracket. It helps to have a helper steady the rear end so it doesn't fall off the jack.
Reverse to reinstall. Since you didn't touch any alignment settings, it should still be aligned when you drive away.
If you haven't adjusted anything, or loosened the strut rods, then it will all go back into place when weight is on the wheels again.
I think a lot of you are doing far more work than you need to. We used to drop the rear in 30 minutes in the race car.
Disconnect battery.
Put on jack stands.
Remove spare tire carrier.
Slide a floor jack under the leaf spring end, using ViseGrips or c-clamp to provide a stop so it doesn't slide. Lift slightly, remove the spring bolt to trailing arm from spring, lower spring. Repeat on other side.
Unbolt the inner u-joints. Caps (4) are much faster than u-bolts.
Pull the top of the tires out to get the u-joints/halfshafts to drop out of the rear end stub shafts. Rotating the tires can help the u-joints slide out. Tape caps to be sure they don't fall off and pull shafts away for clearance. You can hold them with a bungee if you need.
Unbolt the propeller shaft u-joint, shove the driveshaft forward.
Remove the two or four bolts holding the bracket to the nose of the rear end.
Unbolt the strut rod bracket (4) and pull down the bracket.
Slide the floor jack under the rear end and raise to just touch the rear end or about a half inch to inch below.
Unbolt the cross member (2) and pry the ends off the sombrero cups with the longest pry bar you can find. Something 5 foot or longer is best. You may have to lower the jack slightly during this as you want the rear end to hang slightly to assist the crossmember coming off the frame.
Lower the jack slowly, while moving back and pulling the rear end out of the front mounting bracket. It helps to have a helper steady the rear end so it doesn't fall off the jack.
Reverse to reinstall. Since you didn't touch any alignment settings, it should still be aligned when you drive away.
thanks,
larry
05-10-2011, 05:43 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
I'm getting to do this soon. After looking at the cross member I'm pretty sure I understand how to pry it off - I have a new 5ft pry bar waiting. But, if it's so hard to get off, what makes it "not hard" to get back on? Just using the bolt to tighten it snugs it up just fine?
thanks,
larry
thanks,
larry
I believe time, road dirt and corrosion make the removal difficult. Those should not be a factor on the re-install.
05-11-2011, 04:16 PM
#16
Team Owner
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I'm getting to do this soon. After looking at the cross member I'm pretty sure I understand how to pry it off - I have a new 5ft pry bar waiting. But, if it's so hard to get off, what makes it "not hard" to get back on? Just using the bolt to tighten it snugs it up just fine?
thanks,
larry
thanks,
larry
05-12-2011, 07:11 PM
#17
Safety Car
Nassau's got it.
Those bolts on the tongue bracket of the differential can't be removed with the diff in place. They hit the fiberglass wells behind the seats. I looked pretty hard at that when I was pulling things.
I've heard of the racer trick of cutting holes to get access to the differential bolts on the crossmember, but never for the bolts on the tongue bracket!
Otherwise, Procrastination Racing's procedure is pretty much what I used, though I did undo the strut rods from their bracket to get them completely out of the way.
Cris
Those bolts on the tongue bracket of the differential can't be removed with the diff in place. They hit the fiberglass wells behind the seats. I looked pretty hard at that when I was pulling things.
I've heard of the racer trick of cutting holes to get access to the differential bolts on the crossmember, but never for the bolts on the tongue bracket!
Otherwise, Procrastination Racing's procedure is pretty much what I used, though I did undo the strut rods from their bracket to get them completely out of the way.
Cris
Drilling a hole in the floor well is the procedure stated in the 1966 chassis service manual (p. 4-33) to get the tongue bolt out and let the tongue pivot downward to get access to the U-joint/pinion flange.
05-14-2011, 11:00 AM
#18
Safety Car
Thanks, JohnZ. What don't you have a picture of when it comes to mid-years? 
And, yes, my floor pan already has the hole I drilled a couple years ago when I had to drop the bracket.
larry
And, yes, my floor pan already has the hole I drilled a couple years ago when I had to drop the bracket.
larry
05-28-2011, 09:25 AM
#19
Safety Car
Thanks for the help. Diff and cross member came out easier than I thought it would. It was a piece of cake compared to some of the other things I've done on the car.
larry
larry
