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Car won't stay running

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Old 04-16-2011, 05:38 PM
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trainsimple
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Default Car won't stay running

So I decided to wake up my 66 after it's winter slumber. The car won't stay running, I have to have my foot on the throttle. That being said, I probably did that for about 1 minute, maybe 2. Should I just do that longer or do you think something is up?
Old 04-16-2011, 05:52 PM
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5thvet
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Did you check and make sure your choke is set?
Old 04-16-2011, 05:58 PM
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Choke is stuck or your needle/seat has some dirt in it.

Good 'a guess as any!
Old 04-16-2011, 06:15 PM
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yes i would have to say check the carb....good luck
Old 04-16-2011, 06:25 PM
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Not sure if this applies but I installed an in-line fuel filter. I usually change it after the first drive after hibernation just in case some gunk accumulated somewhere in the tank or fuel lines and is now pugging the filter and preventing enough gas from getting to the carb.

Worth at least starting with the really easy, cheap fixes first.

My 2 cents
Old 04-16-2011, 07:16 PM
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Kensmith
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Originally Posted by trainsimple
So I decided to wake up my 66 after it's winter slumber. The car won't stay running, I have to have my foot on the throttle. That being said, I probably did that for about 1 minute, maybe 2. Should I just do that longer or do you think something is up?
Check the choke first to make sure it is working properly. Not sure what motor, carb, etc you have. I know my motor which is a new 383 stroker crate motor has a fast idle that keeps the RPM up during warm-up. My motor does not like to run good until it hits at least 120 to 140 degrees. Ya have to remember these motors are not like our daily drivers. You have to warm them up to get them happy!
Old 04-16-2011, 08:28 PM
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trainsimple
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Thanks for the reply guys. Quick question... (sorry, I'm not a mechanic or anything). The car has an automatic choke correct? If so, I take the air cleaner off to access the carb, but what exactly am I looking for?

I have a 327/300 HP engine.

Thanks!
Old 04-16-2011, 08:57 PM
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Take the air cleaner lid off. On the front half of your carb you will see a piece of metal ( flap) that opens and closes over the bowls. When the engine is cold and you pump the acclerator once before starting, that should close the flap ( down position). Take a look and see if it is open ( flap vertical) or closed. If you need a pic let me know but it should be easy to spot.
Old 04-16-2011, 10:35 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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The choke linkage is also responsible (in most cases) for getting the carb operating at a fast idle via a fast idle cam in addition to temporarily enriching the mixture. If you get the choke to close when cold and start the car and it isn't idling from around say 1,600-1,800 RPM check the fast idle linkage.
Old 04-16-2011, 10:36 PM
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Sounds like a vacuum leak...
Old 04-17-2011, 08:58 AM
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I haven't looked at the carb yet. I will this afternoon, but when I was in the garage this morning, I noticed a pool of gas on the intake manifold. Does that point to something? Thanks again!
Old 04-17-2011, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by trainsimple
I haven't looked at the carb yet. I will this afternoon, but when I was in the garage this morning, I noticed a pool of gas on the intake manifold. Does that point to something? Thanks again!
Yeah, it points to post #3. Sounds like the carb is flooding.

Before you start it again, dry up the gas on the intake so you don't get a big fire started. Then have someone start the car while you watch what is happening with the air cleaner off.

If gas starts coming out one of the little tubes on top your carb, your float is stuck open. You can try capping off the gas line, starting the engine and running it until it quits, then hook the gas line back up and see if it's fixed. Otherwise, time to take the carb apart and blow it out.

If you engine has a Holley on it, you could just have shrunken gaskets and the carb is leaking internally/externally. If that's the case, you can buy new gaskets, install and your problem will be fixed. If you see a Holley leaking at the gaskets, resist the temptation to cranks the screws tighter. All you'll likely do is warp the metering blocks and the main body and then you will have a problem.

Last edited by MikeM; 04-17-2011 at 09:28 AM.
Old 04-17-2011, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Yeah, it points to post #3. Sounds like the carb is flooding.

Before you start it again, dry up the gas on the intake so you don't get a big fire started. Then have someone start the car while you watch what is happening with the air cleaner off.

If gas starts coming out one of the little tubes on top your carb, your float is stuck open. You can try capping off the gas line, starting the engine and running it until it quits, then hook the gas line back up and see if it's fixed. Otherwise, time to take the carb apart and blow it out.

If you engine has a Holley on it, you could just have shrunken gaskets and the carb is leaking internally/externally. If that's the case, you can buy new gaskets, install and your problem will be fixed. If you see a Holley leaking at the gaskets, resist the temptation to cranks the screws tighter. All you'll likely do is warp the metering blocks and the main body and then you will have a problem.
Thanks for the info Mike. I'll have a look, but it maybe time to bring it someone ..
Old 04-17-2011, 09:37 AM
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trainsimple
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
Take the air cleaner lid off. On the front half of your carb you will see a piece of metal ( flap) that opens and closes over the bowls. When the engine is cold and you pump the acclerator once before starting, that should close the flap ( down position). Take a look and see if it is open ( flap vertical) or closed. If you need a pic let me know but it should be easy to spot.
It looks like it's open, and when I gently push it, it doesn't seem to move much... certainly doesn't close.
Old 04-17-2011, 10:49 AM
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Dan Hampton
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Originally Posted by trainsimple
It looks like it's open, and when I gently push it, it doesn't seem to move much... certainly doesn't close.
Is the car warm when you are doing this or cold?
Old 04-17-2011, 12:26 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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Look -- you have to 'blip' the accelerator linkage to get the choke to close on a cold car.
The linkage will hold the choke from closing all the way when cold until you do this !!
Old 04-17-2011, 01:07 PM
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He said he had to keep his foot on the gas. That should trip the choke.

Besides, a non working choke doesn't explain his puddle of gas on the intake.

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Old 04-17-2011, 04:48 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by MikeM
He said he had to keep his foot on the gas. That should trip the choke.

Besides, a non working choke doesn't explain his puddle of gas on the intake.
I'm not trying to explain the puddle of gas. I'm trying to explain why the choke plate doesn't move when he "pushes" on it (post #14) from under the hood. I doubt he is doing that with his foot on the gas unless he has some damn long arms and legs.

Don't want him chasing bogus symptoms...

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-17-2011 at 04:51 PM.
Old 04-17-2011, 05:29 PM
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MikeM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink

I'm trying to explain why the choke plate doesn't move when he "pushes" on it (post #14) from under the hood. I doubt he is doing that with his foot on the gas unless he has some damn long arms and legs.

Don't want him chasing bogus symptoms...
Why not just take your finger and shove on the choke plate to close it? You don't need to touch the gas pedal or "blip" anything or long legs/arms to push the choke closed on an AFB.

If the choke plate won't move, something is hung up.
Old 04-17-2011, 06:38 PM
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I don't know what carb he is running....a Holley was discussed briefly above. In any event, I don't disagree Mike. The gas puddle on the intake is a giveaway that something is causing flooding or there is a leaky fuel line/filter.


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